Drive/Jackshaft Bearing numbers, sources, & maintenance.

[Rockmeister]

These are the Yamaha Part Numbers and list price for the Drive & Jackshaft bearings on my 2005 RX-1 Warrior.
(Most all late model Yamahas use the same parts, but double check your application.)
The actual part numbers that are on the factory bearings are the second number listed.
The 3rd listing is the actual measurement of the bearing and the metric equivalent.
Also shown is a regular supplier and cost if found.


Lower Speedometer End (Driveshaft)
Yamaha# 93306-20589-00 List $37.65
NSK# ASS205LLXV6(on inner race) UB205(On rubber seal)
Notes: Has locking collar
.983"ID x 2.048"OD x .590"W 1.061"W at collar
25mm x 52mm x 15mm (x 27mm)
Royal Distributing# 04-156-030R $19.95

Lower Chaincase End (Driveshaft)
Yamaha# 93306-20592-00 List $52.36
Koyo# 6205RU
Notes: Sealed one side only
.983"ID x 2.048"OD x .590"W
25mm x 52mm x 15mm
Dennis Kirk#12-51 (62052RS) $4.95
(This number is for a double seal bearing, would suggest getting the double seal and poking a hole in it on the oil side of the chaincase to allow oil in, but not metal filings from the chaincase.)
Royal Distributing# 04-1560R $8.95 (Single Rubber seal)

Upper Secondary End (Jackshaft)
Yamaha# 93306-20650-00 List $35.21
NSK# 6206DU(On Rubber seal) 6206K(On bearing inner race)
Notes: The Inside of this race is TAPERED, a standard 6206 bearing will NOT fit, must use a 6206K (note the K)
1.223" tapering to 1.186"ID x 2.442"OD x .628"W
31mm tapering to 30mmID x 62mm x 16mm
Royal Distributing# 04-620650 $44.95 (Factory bearing is less)

Upper Chaincase End (Jackshaft)
Yamaha# 93306-20627-00 List $35.51
Koyo# 83A093
Notes: Bearing has no seals
1.179"ID x 2.442"OD x .628"W
30mm x 62mm x 16mm
This looks to be a standard 6206 bearing simply without seals.
Dennis Kirk#12-0039 (62062RS) $6.95
Royal Distributing# 04-1650R $8.95 (Single rubber seal, double may be better)

Royal Distributing (Canada):
http://www.royaldistributing.com/Shoppi ... 9/186.html
1.800.265.2970

The only factory bearing that is Waaaay out of line cost wise is the Lower Chaincase End Bearing.
IMO $53 for a $5 bearing is out of line.

Changing just the chaincase end bearings to industry standard parts will save you about $75 when you change your bearings.

Drill or poke a small hole on the oil side of the bearing seal in the chaincase, and they will become basically maintenance free.
Drill or poke a small hole on the outside (Clutch side) of the bearing seal on the clutch end and lube them with a grease needle a couple times a year and they also will last much longer.
(Per Hondo, myself, and many others here.)
(If you grease them often enough, they should last indefinitely.)

Water intrusion into the bearings is what kills the grease, makes the bearing rust, and then the bearing dies.
Water WILL intrude past the factory seals eventually, no matter what.
Fortunately these bearings have rubber seals, rather than metal seals, so we can re-lubricate them.

Everytime you re-grease the bearing, you are forcing water out of the bearing and giving the grease(and bearing) new life.
I do mine beginning, mid, and end of season.

If anyone has found sources for the clutch end bearings, please add them here.
Thanks!

Edited to add Royal Distributing per bsevigny

 

[bsevigny]

bearing source

rockmeister,

I have ordered my driveshaft bearings from Tull Bearing in Minneapolis. The cost was less than half.

Tull Bearing's phone number is (612) 588-1185. In the below link I identified a good source for getting part numbers.

Bgs

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=

 

[Rockmeister]

Re: bearing source

rockmeister,

I have ordered my driveshaft bearings from Tull Bearing in Minneapolis. The cost was less than half.

Tull Bearing's phone number is (612) 588-1185. In the below link I identified a good source for getting part numbers.

Bgs

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=

Awesome!
The direct link to Royal Distributing is:
http://www.royaldistributing.com/Shoppi ... 9/186.html

Will add the Royal part numbers to the above list.

Thanks!

 

[tkuss]

Great work, thanks for taking the time.

Is there any other bearings that should be replaced, besides these 4. My apex has 9400 miles on it.

What bearing is #23 in this attached fische?

Also I can't find this bearing on the fische.
Upper Secondary End (Jackshaft)
Yamaha# 93306-20650-00 List $35.21
NSK# 6206DU(On Rubber seal) 6206K(On bearing inner race)
Notes: The Inside of this race is TAPERED, a standard 6206 bearing will NOT fit, must use a 6206K (note the K)
1.223" tapering to 1.186"ID x 2.442"OD x .628"W
31mm tapering to 30mmID x 62mm x 16mm
Royal Distributing# 04-620650 $44.95 (Factory bearing is less)

 

[Budweiser]

Thanks for the info and taking the time to do this. Too bad I already ordered all my bearings from Yamaha!!

 

[Rockmeister]

Great work, thanks for taking the time.

Is there any other bearings that should be replaced, besides these 4. My apex has 9400 miles on it.

What bearing is #23 in this attached fische?

Also I can't find this bearing on the fische.
Upper Secondary End (Jackshaft)
Yamaha# 93306-20650-00 List $35.21
NSK# 6206DU(On Rubber seal) 6206K(On bearing inner race)
Notes: The Inside of this race is TAPERED, a standard 6206 bearing will NOT fit, must use a 6206K (note the K)
1.223" tapering to 1.186"ID x 2.442"OD x .628"W
31mm tapering to 30mmID x 62mm x 16mm
Royal Distributing# 04-620650 $44.95 (Factory bearing is less)

You are welcome!

The bearing is actually number 22, it is the outer chaincase bearing behind the brake disk.
#23 is the seal.
This is off the top of my head, it is a 6502.
It is an industry standard $5 bearing.
You buy the 6502 2RS (double rubber seal) model and simply remove the inner seal with a screwdriver.

On all the chaincase bearings, poke a small hole in or remove the INNER seals entirely and the chaincase oil will keep them lubricated.
They will last almost forever that way.

Drill a 1/16" hole in the clutch end bearings like shown here:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?p=569964#569964
And they will last almost forever.
You will also see the tool I made for removing and installing the upper secondary end bearing.
Also shows the re-grease holes well.

The upper secondary end bearing 93306-20650-00 is in the Frame 2 fische.
(I know, what a weird place to put it...)

Hope this helps!

 

[Vandelay Industries]

Hey Rock. Should the grease that the new bearings come packed with be cleaned out before going into the chaincase? Or is it ok to let it mix with the chaincase lube?

 

[tkuss]

Yes, I am wondering this as well.

 

[tkuss]

I ordered one bearing from Royal Distrubuting and they cancelled the order because they do not ship bearings to the U.S because of the large market of bearing providers here.

?

 

[Rockmeister]

Hey Rock. Should the grease that the new bearings come packed with be cleaned out before going into the chaincase? Or is it ok to let it mix with the chaincase lube?

I just wiped the excess out and installed them.
Any Lubricant is just that, lubricant.
As long as there isn't some weird kind of interaction between the lubes, don't see it as an issue.
The factory seals will leak the oil to a point anyway.
One of mine was filled with oil from the chaincase when I disassembled it with a slight grease residue.

Would get the Clutch end bearings from your dealer, and the Chaincase end bearings from local suppliers or the net.
That will save a good bit of money.

 

[YammyRX1]

Just replacing my bearings now and came accross this great bit of research from Rockmeister- thanks! While checking the catalogue I found out that Royal Distributing sells bearing / seal kits (upper and lower) that appear to be cheaper than buying the bearings separately. Going to pick some up today and see what they come with.