Drive shaft bearing...09 Nytro xtx

[gitrdun]

The set screws are interchangeable and same length, only difference is the Yamaha Canada product appears to need a 3mm Allen tool and has a ball type tip, and the set screws that I got from Portyamaha need a T20 Torx(perfect fitting) and have a concave end with a sharp point in the middle.

 

[Sevey]

Funny - I have a NTN 205 and made in Japan bearing (not sure mfter), and they have different set screws. One is a 10/32 (Ntn) and the other is 6mm x 0.75 thread (japan bearing). Both are ball tips.

I have not come across one with Torx set screws.

I am trying to find some set screws that are concave and get away from the ball tip.
From your pic - I like the look of that torx one.
MS

 

[Indianimal]

This may sound like a stupid question... But I am new to the snowmobile game. Been moto guy all my life. I have a strange noise that my buddy said sounds like track ratcheting or these drive shaft bearings. Did not make noise last year and over summer had both skid shocks rebuilt. Of course got first ride in this week on barely enough snow and makes bad noise when it hooks. Can these bearings be easily inspected? Do I need to remove skid and track to replace? Going to start with tightening track. 08 nytro rtx

 

[Sevey]

The jackshaft and drive bearings are tough to tell their condition when together.
If the skid is out you can rotate the drive cogs with a loose track and get a bit of a feel, but the most reliable is to pull it and roll the bearing in your palm. I usually gauge my bearings from mileage and don't mess with them. If they are nearing 8k - they get replaced.

The clutch side drive bearing can be removed without taking skid or chaincase apart. Loosen the track, remove set screws on shaft, remove the 4 bolt bearing cup and it should pop out. The previous comments in this post was me doing just that, but it did not want to come out.

The clutch side jack shaft bearing is tough to remove without opening the chaincase up. Both of these clutch side bearings (if they have the right seals), can have seals removed and repacked extending life.

If you don't know for certain how many miles are on the drive bearings - I would replace them all.

In my experience the chaincase bearings have stood up to mileage very well. They seem to be able to go 8-10,000km with regular oil changes easily. The jackshaft and drive bearing -if cleaned could likely go as long. If not cleaned I wouldn't go past 8,0000km. The drive bearing does not seem to give good longevity. Likely cause it is in the water and crap all the time. Also, it is a small bearing relative to force and rpm's on it, so its gonna wear faster.

Sorry to ramble
MS

 

[Indianimal]

So they are fairly easy to do without ripping half the sled apart? If I tighten track and it continues I will probably open chain case to inspect anyways. At that point may as well change bearings if not to terrible or expensive. If this startd last year I would have done it during summer. seems to me though as of it is not a metallic sound. Hopefully track is just too loose.

 

[Sevey]

Clutch side drive bearing = easy
Clutch side jack shaft = not so easy - chaincase cover has to come off to tap the shaft out.

To overhaul the chain case is a fairly big deal. New seals and bearings will be needed, pullers and presses to do it properly. There are 4 bearings in total on the chain case side: Two in the main housing and two in the chain case cover.

Lets hope it is ratcheting and that's it. My 10 cents - Nytros like their track tight. Yes it wears the sliders more but then there is no chance of ratcheting, and the upper track doesn't do any slapping.
MS

 

[Indianimal]

That is what I hope for. Just didn't do last year and I did have skid out to replace shocks. Other than that adjusted front limiter strap. Hopefully I just didn't tighten. Wrong time of year for major projects lik chain case. But I may do next summer now if it not it for piece of mind.i would load a picure of tack sag but it is telling me it is too large. With the passing of my grandfather and class after work have not had a chance to work on it. Hopefully tomorrow.

 

[WinderFab]

Sorry for your loss...
Pop off the secondary clutch, hold the brake and the bolt should come off easily, you can remove the seal and have a look at that bearing, it’s not the truest way to check but it will give you an idea of the condition of that bearing, if it looks clean just add a bit of grease and reinstall the seal, do the same to the lower one “driveshaft” remove the plate that holds the drive shaft bearing in place and pop off the seal, hopefully it’s just the track ratcheting if not the driveshaft bearing is most likely the cause which is fairly easy to do, you don’t need to remove the skid to replace the bearing.

 

[Indianimal]

Thanks buddy!

 

[Indianimal]

Got lucky and it was track. Put 100 miles on up in Michigan yesterday. But I feel I should do these bearings this summer for piece of mind. Thans for the help

 

[WinderFab]

That’s good to hear,
Peace of mind goes along ways when your riding, our group had a breakdown last winter in northern Ontario luckily we ran into great people who let us use their heated shop to repair the sled, put us back a few days on our trip but nevertheless we made it back to our trucks.
Brand X 2017 sled jack shaft bearing on clutch side disenergreated.
Some say I’m crazy but I change my drive shaft bearing clutch side before the start of every season, if a bearing is gonna fail that’s the one.

 

[Sevey]

That's probably not bad advice.

As for Indianimal, glad to hear everything is going in the right direction. If you have no base of reference it is likely a good idea to replace all drive bearings. Doing them in a t shirt and shorts in the middle of summer is almost relaxing.
MS

 

[mike3577]

So can you replace the bearing behind the secondary on a nytro xtx without taking the chaincase apart?

 

[mike3577]

Mine has 10,000 mile on it.i repacked it for the first time last year while it was on the sled

 

[Sevey]

My dealer claimed he has taken them out without taking the chaincase apart. Of course when he tried it on my sled he broke something and the sled was laid up for over a week waiting for parts.
I would just pick the seal and repack.
After rebuilding everything this summer, that bearing is pressed on the shaft pretty good - I cant see how you could pluck that bearing out.
MS