The belt on my Attak is ridding below the top of the driven clutch. If I understand it correctly, to make the belt ride higher, I need to add shims/washers to the three small bolts on the back side of the clutch. Right? Also, what is the advantage of having the belt ride higher?
Assuming I'm right, to remove the driven clutch, do I simply unscrew the bolt holding the clutch on? Will the clutch come right off or do I need a puller? When putting the clutch back on, does it need to go on in a certain position? Additionally, what is the torque spec. for the bolt and should I use Blue Loctite on the bolt?
I've removed the drive clutch to change the weight rivets when I've headed out west (Togwotee,) but I’ve never removed the driven clutch.
Thanks, in advance, for your help.
Assuming I'm right, to remove the driven clutch, do I simply unscrew the bolt holding the clutch on? Will the clutch come right off or do I need a puller? When putting the clutch back on, does it need to go on in a certain position? Additionally, what is the torque spec. for the bolt and should I use Blue Loctite on the bolt?
I've removed the drive clutch to change the weight rivets when I've headed out west (Togwotee,) but I’ve never removed the driven clutch.
Thanks, in advance, for your help.
If you look in the manual, there is a tolerace for the belt going below. My GT is below and is within tolerance.
Just in case you didn't know.
Just in case you didn't know.
BlueBlood
Pro
The higher your belt is in the secondary clutch, the more low end torque the sled will have. If the belt is too low, it's like trying to take off from a stop with your car in second gear. Usually I'll set mine as high as I can without it squealing or the track moving with the back of the sled off the ground. I have one of the external adjusters on the secondary so it's pretty easy.
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
To remove the driven, all you have to do is remove the bolt with the washers and the spacer. No puller required, it comes off easily. To reinstall the driven, I believe that there is only one way that the clutch can mount back on the jackshaft, so no need to worry about positioning it correctly, ie. measuring.
On my Vector the torque setting for the bolt is 46 ft.lbs., so I'm pretty sure it's the same for your sled. And no, you do not need loctite.
Adding shims to the 3 bolts to adjust belt height will raise the height of the belt, but like BlueBlood says raising it too high will cause the belt to squeal. Specs state 0.5mm below sheaves to 1.5mm above sheaves is acceptable.
On my Vector the torque setting for the bolt is 46 ft.lbs., so I'm pretty sure it's the same for your sled. And no, you do not need loctite.
Adding shims to the 3 bolts to adjust belt height will raise the height of the belt, but like BlueBlood says raising it too high will cause the belt to squeal. Specs state 0.5mm below sheaves to 1.5mm above sheaves is acceptable.
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buddah
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BlueBlood said:I have one of the external adjusters on the secondary so it's pretty easy.
Paragon????? If so, PM me..........PLEASE!
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Highmark
Veteran
Grimm said:To remove the driven, all you have to do is remove the bolt with the washers and the spacer. No puller required, it comes off easily. To reinstall the driven, I believe that there is only one way that the clutch can mount back on the jackshaft, so no need to worry about positioning it correctly, ie. measuring.
The jackshaft is splined. As long as they mesh any way is fine. Don't go trying to put it on the exact matching splines it came off of.
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