Was wondering if anyone had the installation directions for their ECP kit. When Freddie shipped it, he said his computer was down. He tried e-mailing them to me, but my e-mail here at school is very 'picky' so I never received them. does anyone have some they could post? Or is their anyway I could get some? Want to get sled to dealer this week to get it installed with my new ripsaw.
Thanks!
Thanks!
SUPERTUNER
TY 4 Stroke Master
Here ya go!
The following procedures are to be conducted by a qualifed technician trained with the procedures to perform carburetor service. By performing these services you are stating that you are qualified to perform this level of technical work. ECP Inc. assumes no responsibility for any damages sustained as a result from the installation of these parts. Due to the nature of the High Performance industry, ECP Inc. assumes no responsibility towards damages to the engine or snowmobile as a result of the installation of these products and it is acknowledged that these products are for closed course racing operation only.
1. Remove stock airbox.
2. Disconnect the airbox end of the large and small hose connected to the stock airbox.
3. Loosen clamps holding carburetor rack into intake manifolds.
4. Gently pry with your hands and remove carburetors from rubber intake manifolds. Remove throttle cable.
5. Lay a rag or towel over open intake manifolds to prevent anything from falling inside your engine.
6. Have a catch can available to catch any fuel that will spill, or pre-drain carburetors of fuel.
7. Remove screws holding each float bowl to carburetor and gently tap each float bowl to loosen. Be careful not to strip the bolts holding the float bowl on. If this appears to be a problem, obtain an impact screw driver and carefully loosen the offending screws.
8. With a flat blade screwdriver, remove the main jet. Be sure the jet you are removing is the main jet. If your engine has stock jetting you should have a #135 main jet installed.
9. Install the main jets we have provided, or supply the desired main jet for your application. Our testing has shown that with a stock engine, a #165 small round Mikuni main jet ran well. We make no guarantees regarding jetting specifications as each environment, air quality and altitude changes jetting parameters. If you have any questions, please contact ECP.
10. Reinstall float bowls being careful not to disturb the gasket.
11. Locate the fuel screws. They are located directly in front of the float bowls. The adjustment of these fuel screws is made with a flat blade screwdriver. The factory sets each cylinder seperately for pollution and EPA standards so don't be surprised to see each cylinder set differently. Gently seat down each fuel screw by turning them clockwise. After they have seated down properly, open each screw by turning counter-clockwise 2.0 to 2.5 turns. This will get all 4 cylinders of your engine fueling the same amount.
12. Press carburetors back into rubber manifolds making sure all 4 carburetors seat fully down into manifolds and tighten clamps.
13. If you are installing aftermarket CV slide springs, remove the 2 phillips head screws holding the carburetor cap on. Hold down the cap until the screws are completely unscrewed and gently allow spring to push cap upward. Be careful not to lose the small o-ring that sits directly under the carburetor cap. Repeat this procedure for the remaining carburetors.
14. Remove pre oiled air filters from protective wrap.
15. Slide air filter spigots over bellmouth of carburetor and tighten with supplied hose clamps. You may have to position or rotate the hoseclamps to provide ease of tightening.
16. Tighten hoseclamps. Overtightening is not recommended.
17. Remove crankcase vent filter from package and insert into the large hose that used to be connected to the stock airbox. Clamp down tight.
18. Small hose that used to be connected to stock airbox could remain vented to atmosphere as well and tywrapped out of the way.
19. Depress throttle lever and make sure throttle operates free of binding or sticking.
20. Close and open choke to check for any binding or sticking.
21. You are now ready to start the engine.
22. Put sled up on a jackstand with track elevated off ground.
23. Do not allow anyone to stand in front of sled during running time.
24. Start engine with your usual procedure and allow to idle.
25. If engine does not idle, recheck throttle and choke operation.
26. We suggest synchronizing the carburetors with a manometer after thorough warm up has been conducted.
27. Go ride.
The following procedures are to be conducted by a qualifed technician trained with the procedures to perform carburetor service. By performing these services you are stating that you are qualified to perform this level of technical work. ECP Inc. assumes no responsibility for any damages sustained as a result from the installation of these parts. Due to the nature of the High Performance industry, ECP Inc. assumes no responsibility towards damages to the engine or snowmobile as a result of the installation of these products and it is acknowledged that these products are for closed course racing operation only.
1. Remove stock airbox.
2. Disconnect the airbox end of the large and small hose connected to the stock airbox.
3. Loosen clamps holding carburetor rack into intake manifolds.
4. Gently pry with your hands and remove carburetors from rubber intake manifolds. Remove throttle cable.
5. Lay a rag or towel over open intake manifolds to prevent anything from falling inside your engine.
6. Have a catch can available to catch any fuel that will spill, or pre-drain carburetors of fuel.
7. Remove screws holding each float bowl to carburetor and gently tap each float bowl to loosen. Be careful not to strip the bolts holding the float bowl on. If this appears to be a problem, obtain an impact screw driver and carefully loosen the offending screws.
8. With a flat blade screwdriver, remove the main jet. Be sure the jet you are removing is the main jet. If your engine has stock jetting you should have a #135 main jet installed.
9. Install the main jets we have provided, or supply the desired main jet for your application. Our testing has shown that with a stock engine, a #165 small round Mikuni main jet ran well. We make no guarantees regarding jetting specifications as each environment, air quality and altitude changes jetting parameters. If you have any questions, please contact ECP.
10. Reinstall float bowls being careful not to disturb the gasket.
11. Locate the fuel screws. They are located directly in front of the float bowls. The adjustment of these fuel screws is made with a flat blade screwdriver. The factory sets each cylinder seperately for pollution and EPA standards so don't be surprised to see each cylinder set differently. Gently seat down each fuel screw by turning them clockwise. After they have seated down properly, open each screw by turning counter-clockwise 2.0 to 2.5 turns. This will get all 4 cylinders of your engine fueling the same amount.
12. Press carburetors back into rubber manifolds making sure all 4 carburetors seat fully down into manifolds and tighten clamps.
13. If you are installing aftermarket CV slide springs, remove the 2 phillips head screws holding the carburetor cap on. Hold down the cap until the screws are completely unscrewed and gently allow spring to push cap upward. Be careful not to lose the small o-ring that sits directly under the carburetor cap. Repeat this procedure for the remaining carburetors.
14. Remove pre oiled air filters from protective wrap.
15. Slide air filter spigots over bellmouth of carburetor and tighten with supplied hose clamps. You may have to position or rotate the hoseclamps to provide ease of tightening.
16. Tighten hoseclamps. Overtightening is not recommended.
17. Remove crankcase vent filter from package and insert into the large hose that used to be connected to the stock airbox. Clamp down tight.
18. Small hose that used to be connected to stock airbox could remain vented to atmosphere as well and tywrapped out of the way.
19. Depress throttle lever and make sure throttle operates free of binding or sticking.
20. Close and open choke to check for any binding or sticking.
21. You are now ready to start the engine.
22. Put sled up on a jackstand with track elevated off ground.
23. Do not allow anyone to stand in front of sled during running time.
24. Start engine with your usual procedure and allow to idle.
25. If engine does not idle, recheck throttle and choke operation.
26. We suggest synchronizing the carburetors with a manometer after thorough warm up has been conducted.
27. Go ride.
Boston RX1
TY 4 Stroke Master
Freddie, nice lawyer speak. I thought you were a mechanic. Go figure.
bryantch
Newbie
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2004
- Messages
- 15
freddie,
i tried to send an email back to you about the instructions for the kit i got from matt but the address got rejected by aol.
from the looks of your post above i did it correctly though.
i was wondering about the crank case breather though...it doesnt fit the hose to well...very loose.. should i just get a hose clamp and sinch it down?
thanks
ian
i tried to send an email back to you about the instructions for the kit i got from matt but the address got rejected by aol.
from the looks of your post above i did it correctly though.
i was wondering about the crank case breather though...it doesnt fit the hose to well...very loose.. should i just get a hose clamp and sinch it down?
thanks
ian
Ian
Get a smaller diameter hose to go around the filter first the slide that in to the existing hose. You just need enough smaller hose to cover the nipple...BBY
Get a smaller diameter hose to go around the filter first the slide that in to the existing hose. You just need enough smaller hose to cover the nipple...BBY
Thanks!
Thanks Freddie! Can't wait to get it installed and try it out1
Thanks Freddie! Can't wait to get it installed and try it out1
Freddie isn't whistling dixie there. I was looking in the center of the cap underside on the initial install and mistook a round recess of sorts for the o-ring mentioned. After going through the owners manual a little more, I then realized where the "small o-rings" were located, and while tuning again last night thought I better check to see how I'd done the first time around. Three of the four were missing.
I had two on hand (figured I'd probably blown this when I was in the dealer last week), but dealer doesn't have a third on hand. What purpose do these little buggers serve and are any real bad things going to happen if I run without it in one carb until the part arrives early next week?
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