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engine braking.....how can you lesson the effects ?

On Cat's new Z1R they did something new with the exhaust valves so that it doesnt have the typical 4-stroke engine braking.
I personally love the engine braking, you can ride so much faster into the corners and not need to brake.
When they went to 4-strokes in Moto GP bike racing the racers found that they could turn faster laps without riding any harder due to the added engine braking of a 4-stroke.
The only thing I could think of that would help is to raise the engagement rpm so that the clutch disengages sooner.
 

so i musta been ridin my 2 stokrs wrong then cause this sounds like exactly how i drive all sleds. i didn't notice any engine brakeing on the warrior any more than my et410 or sxr500.

ill admit im a bit of a maniac on snowmachines but i almost never ever use the brake (unless its time to start prayin) and ppl still have to work to keep up to me.
 
maim said:
so i musta been ridin my 2 stokrs wrong then cause this sounds like exactly how i drive all sleds. i didn't notice any engine brakeing on the warrior any more than my et410 or sxr500.

Thats kinda the point. Most people drive that way. I don't see any problem with the four stokes engine braking, its a little more pronounced than a two stroke or maybe I should say some are. My 1000 tripple will coast forever it seems in comparision to my Warrior.

My 600 ZL coasts less but because I geared it down a tooth on top and a tooth on the bottom it really drops the nose when you let off. It all in just getting used to the sled any sled.
 
No need to screw with clutching.

Just put on SLP antiwear pads in your track and you won't hardy notice it anymore if at all.

I did and had my sled in the shop and the Yam guys rode it and couldn't believe how much of a difference it makes.

Plus slides will last you quite a bit longer.
 
that's an option I suppose

then you have to worry about the pads wearing out eventually, and more weight on the rotating mass, for trail sleds that might be a good option but for a 162 that seems like alot of work for not aot of return. I'll just set up my clutch to engage at around 4200 and get used to the rest. I'm sure it can't be that bad :Rockon:
 
i have a rage and put a polaris blue with orange strip sping in the secondary clutch and got rid of the engine braking have not had a lot of time to test do to no snow
 
You'll add 2-3 lbs rotating mass but you will free up a lot of friction in the skid too. My pads have lasted me 3000 miles and still good to go. And you don't have to worry about wearing your slides for a long long time.

As for not a lot of return - if your looking to get rid of the feel of engine braking - there is nothing you can do better. Takes 1/2 hour to an hour to do.

Obviously your call there, but they make a huge difference.
 
77srxdude said:
You'll add 2-3 lbs rotating mass but you will free up a lot of friction in the skid too. My pads have lasted me 3000 miles and still good to go. And you don't have to worry about wearing your slides for a long long time.

As for not a lot of return - if your looking to get rid of the feel of engine braking - there is nothing you can do better. Takes 1/2 hour to an hour to do.

Obviously your call there, but they make a huge difference.
>>>
It really only takes an hour for a 162" track ? What'a set cost for the 162" track ? THX
 
so where do they go in a track with all windows open and fully clipped ? Any pictures ? What about running larger rear wheels to decrease track pressure ( 8" ) for less resistance and a set of graphite sliders or hyperfax ? I'm doing this anyway so I thought i'd throw it out there.
 
On the Ripsaw Yam runs every 3rd window is closed and that is where they go - that is on the shorty though. If all your windows are open, then they have no use for you. Sorry if I got your hopes up.

The 8" wheels are commonly run to reduce resistance in both mountain sleds and drag sleds so I don't see how you could go wrong there.

I don't know anything about the graphite slides.
 


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