Er-1

[yamahas]

Hey guys,

I am getting an Er-1 code once in a while. I will be going down the trail and out of no where it will feel like I let off the gas and hammer it again and off the gas like it is having a hard time getting fuel/ bad fuel/air. I thought maybe some bad gas as I have only been out a few times. But then my sled died and I have the Er-1. I waited a bit and then it fired up and just had very little power and made my way home. It stalled and gave a Er-1 again a few times.

The display would shut itself off and back on an the fuel pump would prime itself again on its own and eventually start and I kept going.

I know what Er-1 means but I have not looked into it yet but I am looking for some tips to get me back on the snow ASAP (best start to the season I have ever had!).

I have a hunch (hope) that I know what the problem could be. Yesterday I was out on the trails trying to get the trails packed down a bit helping the club. I was often buried in snow and snow was packed everywhere in the sled. I mean everywhere.

I will be taking connections apart at the ECU and clean them up and hopefully my problem will go away peacefully.


On a more positive note, I feel invincible with that freeride track. I can go though stuff I never would have imagined compared to the stock track.

 

[Jeffz]

I would let it melt completely off, take the side panels off so everything gets nice and dry, then start cleaning connectors. And yes, the Freeride is the best Phazer upgrade. Works well with the Ulmer clutch kit.

 

[cannondale27]

Yes I agree with Jeff.I bet its the speedo connector but it could be any so just do all of them including relays.

 

[yamahas]

Thanks guys, the panels are already off and that bottom right hand side panel was full of snow. Things in there were wet.

I will tackle all the connestions after work in the morning.

 

[yamahas]

Found a very little amount of water in one of the plugs for the ECU.

When unplugged it give the the Er-1 code.

Its drying out now for a while, I hope it did not cause other problems.

All other connections look good.

 

[ef x eh]

Second year I had my sled the same thing happened. We rode all day breaking trails when the sled just quit. I opened the air box and it was packed with snow. We cleaned it all out and limped back home. I improved the seal to the air box and never had trouble again. The deep powder snow can sometimes make its way into everthing.

 

[yamahas]

I though of that as well and took the air box apart when it first started acting up and the filter was still clean. Then the code came up a little bit after.

 

[yamahas]

I tried it out today and its still acting up.

The code is not always there it will run fine then act up then it will reset itself after the sled stalls and be fine for a few minutes.

Sometimes after it stalls it won't turn over at all, sometimes it turns over slowly, then the code clears itself. I wonder if the battery may be bad? I have seen funny things happen to sleds if the batt is going bad/has low voltage.

I will be checking the speedo unit shortly.

 

[cannondale27]

Speedo should have nothing to do with the starter though.I would look at any components related to starter such as solenoid,relays and fuses.Make sure that starter isnt always running.Or like you said something could be bad with batt.

 

[yamahas]

The more I thought about it the more it felt like I had a bad ground somewhere. It would idle but as soon as I get to 8 or 9k rmp it would begin acting up as if the vibrations were causing issues.

I started checking all the grounds beginning with the once I made. I have a ground that I used for my roll over valve that was loose. I know this has caused my stalling out as it acts like the kill switch/tether was set off when it looses ground.

Do you guys think if this happened repeatedly and at a fast pace (high vibrations at high speeds) that I would trick the ECU/Spedo unit to think it was not receiving a normal signal? i guess im asking if it possible for a bad ground with the roll over vaulve to be my problem?

It would explain why it would reset itself after I stopped as the ground would make a connection again and I could be on my way. The constant starting would also have drained my batt enough to cause it to crank slowly. I think I need a new battery anyway since after a full charge while cranking I see under 9V at the battery ( I don't think this is normal) and it is not starting as well as it used to.

It seems to be working now. I will give it a good test after work in the morning.

 

[yamahas]

I would never see the er-1 code for more then a second before power would cycle itself when it it gained ground again.

 

[HYB90RID]

My friends nytro is also getting er-1, as soon as you turn the key to on u can hear the fuel pump relay clicking like crazy but can't hear the pump purge. We replaced the relay seeing as this is a common issue and well still same error... We played around with it again.. If we heat up the garage it starts fine. If it's cold it doesn't start. Last night we took the fuel pump from his brothers nytro and the sled starts right away, no codes, no clicking nothing. It was like -22 last night , we didn't heat up the garage and its starts.... So seems like this is a fuel pump issue

 

[cannondale27]

Yamahas if you have 9v your batt is shot.Surprised it even starts.

 

[Crewchief47]

Seeing under 9 volts under cranking is a pretty good indication it's getting weak. It's a little temperature sensitive but here's a decent link. http://autorepair.about.com/library/wee ... 01604c.htm What's the ambient air temp? and no load voltage?

A weak battery could also be the source of your problem.

 

[yamahas]

i has just been charged when i first had the problem because i suspected that was the problem.

i see 12.7v with no load, while cranking i see just under 9v

its 5-10c in the garage.

i am thinking the loose ground caused my stalling and the bat batt caused the er-1. low voltage causes weird stuff to happen!