Acnas1
Veteran
Was told to try a post over here as alot more people have run these skids.
Having a hard time getting this to hook-up. Heard people saying they almost flipped over backwards and such. I cant even get the ski's 2 feet off the ground?? I installed the skid with a template and checked the measurements all correct. Running a 144 center studded 1 inch Hacksaw. Heelclicker or stock clutching no difference. I weigh 250 geared and have the shocks on #4 angle 2 transfer knob max to front. With the sled in the air I had to tighten the locknut to #4 for the straps to have no slack in them. So about 1/4 inch of thread is beyond the locknut. I tried the setup recommended from the manual and other adjustments but no luck. Any info would be great.
Having a hard time getting this to hook-up. Heard people saying they almost flipped over backwards and such. I cant even get the ski's 2 feet off the ground?? I installed the skid with a template and checked the measurements all correct. Running a 144 center studded 1 inch Hacksaw. Heelclicker or stock clutching no difference. I weigh 250 geared and have the shocks on #4 angle 2 transfer knob max to front. With the sled in the air I had to tighten the locknut to #4 for the straps to have no slack in them. So about 1/4 inch of thread is beyond the locknut. I tried the setup recommended from the manual and other adjustments but no luck. Any info would be great.
SPEED
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
If it is a new x-pert you'll want to remove the DTR from it,then you will achieve all the transfer you need. Look in your manual that came with it . You have to drop the rear arm of the skid and slide the shaft out to remove the DTR. it is simple to do.
Acnas1
Veteran
SPEED
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
How tight are you running your track? You should have at least an 1 1/2 inches slack, the x-pert tightens on compression. Try loosening the softness nut (leave about 1/8 threads showing past nut)
If no luck try getting a hold of Lazy Bastard on this site, he seems to be the x-pert guru .
If no luck try getting a hold of Lazy Bastard on this site, he seems to be the x-pert guru .
Acnas1
Veteran
I have about 1 inch sag in track when i lift the rear off the ground. I could go more. Never ran it till it rachets would it help if it setup way loose? With it too tight could that be why the limiter sraps have slack?
Black 1000
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Are you adjusting the transfer adjuster nut by the rubber bushing?
1CrazySledder
Lifetime Member
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I have 2 of these skids, and have been running them for some time now. Won't run anything else.
You mentioned you have no slack in the straps. There is your problem. Ste them with more slack. When the sled is on the ground, there should be a decent curve in the straps, not tight. You are limiting your transfer, thus the name, limiter straps, and applying more ski pressure.
Loosen them straps up and then try it.
That skid does not have the DTR ( Dynamic Transfer Regulator ). That is an add on mostly for the mountain guys to regulate transfer. It applies the same amount of transfer no matter the condition. I have one skid with it and one without. I can get just as much transfer with the DTR, as my skid without it. It's in the strap settings.
-1CS
You mentioned you have no slack in the straps. There is your problem. Ste them with more slack. When the sled is on the ground, there should be a decent curve in the straps, not tight. You are limiting your transfer, thus the name, limiter straps, and applying more ski pressure.
Loosen them straps up and then try it.
That skid does not have the DTR ( Dynamic Transfer Regulator ). That is an add on mostly for the mountain guys to regulate transfer. It applies the same amount of transfer no matter the condition. I have one skid with it and one without. I can get just as much transfer with the DTR, as my skid without it. It's in the strap settings.
-1CS
Acnas1
Veteran
With the sled on the ground I have the sag in the straps. When I lift the skid off the ground I still had sag in the straps until I tightened the locknut to setting #4 on the drawbar. When I did this it seemed to tighten the straps. With the skid in the air now. More pressure on front of skid?? It seemed to help but I still think I am missing something. When you guys say almost flipped over cause the transfer was too much are you guys standing on the rear of the sled or sitting on the seat? If I ride about 30-40 mph and pin it I get track spin. If I am doing holeshots on very hard pack it will lift the skis 2 ft max when sitting on seat. When I set this skid to the settings in the manual drawbar #1 and raise the rear of the sled off the ground I have slack in the limiter straps. If the track was too tight would this cause this problem? When you say 1 1/2 sag in track is this just with the sled off the ground with no pull on the track? Just the weight of the track sagging 1 1/2??Again thanks for the input. This skid is used with about 500 miles on it. Manual says 2003.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
1) the rails pivot in the middle at the bottom of the arm. In order for the sled to pivot back relative to the rail, one of two things must happen; a) the front of the arm must get further from the rail (meaning that you need to have some slack in the straps), or b) the middle of the rail must compress up into the sled (meaning that the spring must be unloaded enough that it can be compressed some).
2) in order for the angle of the rail to change relative to the body of the sled, the transfer/softness arm must be able to change length. You say that you have the transfer set on maximum, thats good, but not good enough. I see from the picture that you have the rubber bumper still in the transfer gap. Remove it. I haven't been able to figure out why they put it there, but it basically seems to be there just to make you crazy. It limits your transfer and at the same time prevents you from limiting transfer. I know thats a contradiction. Accept it.
3) 2 feet of ski lift is excessive. You NEVER want your skis up that far as it will SERIOUSLY slow you down.
4) Without enough traction for your conditions, you'll never get any transfer. The skid can't magically lift the front of your sled up off the ground -- inertia does that. As the track transfers the engine's power to the ground and accelerates the rear of the sled forward, as Newton put it, "an object will remain in a state of rest or uniform motion unless acted on by an external and unbalanced force". That means that the engine will try to remain where it is as the track tries to drive under it. Thats where transfer comes from. It lifts up because the force accelerating it upwards exceeds (i.e., is unbalanced by) the force of gravity. If you have no traction, then the upward force will never exceed gravity.
Now if you want to flip over backwards, its real easy. Use the crest of a hill to help you get lift. Pin the throttle at just the right moment over just the right hill and the front end will accelerate upwards as the back is forced down hard. I very strongly recommend that you be careful though, I don't think you want to do a back flip as I've heard that it can be quite painful and expensive. Note: I will not be held responsible for any damages, injuries, or death that may occur as a result of irresponsible behavior.
Also note: Because the springs act on the pivot point, the full rails will pivot freely when the sled is lifted. That means that when the sled is lifted off the ground, it doesn't mean anything if there is or is not slack in the straps as you can change this by just pushing against the rail. This same free pivot design is the whole reason why this skid transfers so well.... conventional skids have two springs that balance the rail and prevent it from pivoting freely.
So to recap; to achieve maximum transfer, set transfer rod on maximum and set the preload and ride height low to maximize available slack in the straps (when the sled is down and you are sitting on it), but don't set the preload too low as this will cause the suspension to collapse. You also need to have enough traction and power to lift the front of the sled.
Also; The softness nut has absolutely no affect on front to back transfer, it will only affect back to front transfer (i.e., it has a slight control on ski pressure when you're slowing down)
2) in order for the angle of the rail to change relative to the body of the sled, the transfer/softness arm must be able to change length. You say that you have the transfer set on maximum, thats good, but not good enough. I see from the picture that you have the rubber bumper still in the transfer gap. Remove it. I haven't been able to figure out why they put it there, but it basically seems to be there just to make you crazy. It limits your transfer and at the same time prevents you from limiting transfer. I know thats a contradiction. Accept it.
3) 2 feet of ski lift is excessive. You NEVER want your skis up that far as it will SERIOUSLY slow you down.
4) Without enough traction for your conditions, you'll never get any transfer. The skid can't magically lift the front of your sled up off the ground -- inertia does that. As the track transfers the engine's power to the ground and accelerates the rear of the sled forward, as Newton put it, "an object will remain in a state of rest or uniform motion unless acted on by an external and unbalanced force". That means that the engine will try to remain where it is as the track tries to drive under it. Thats where transfer comes from. It lifts up because the force accelerating it upwards exceeds (i.e., is unbalanced by) the force of gravity. If you have no traction, then the upward force will never exceed gravity.
Now if you want to flip over backwards, its real easy. Use the crest of a hill to help you get lift. Pin the throttle at just the right moment over just the right hill and the front end will accelerate upwards as the back is forced down hard. I very strongly recommend that you be careful though, I don't think you want to do a back flip as I've heard that it can be quite painful and expensive. Note: I will not be held responsible for any damages, injuries, or death that may occur as a result of irresponsible behavior.
Also note: Because the springs act on the pivot point, the full rails will pivot freely when the sled is lifted. That means that when the sled is lifted off the ground, it doesn't mean anything if there is or is not slack in the straps as you can change this by just pushing against the rail. This same free pivot design is the whole reason why this skid transfers so well.... conventional skids have two springs that balance the rail and prevent it from pivoting freely.
So to recap; to achieve maximum transfer, set transfer rod on maximum and set the preload and ride height low to maximize available slack in the straps (when the sled is down and you are sitting on it), but don't set the preload too low as this will cause the suspension to collapse. You also need to have enough traction and power to lift the front of the sled.
Also; The softness nut has absolutely no affect on front to back transfer, it will only affect back to front transfer (i.e., it has a slight control on ski pressure when you're slowing down)
Acnas1
Veteran
So the bumper needs to go. It served its purpose of driving me nuts? Now that it was raining and 60f here all day yesterday I wont be able to try this out for a few weeks. We lost a lot of snow. Thanks again for all the help.
yamahey
Extreme
Lazy, I have a question about that bumper. I got my 04 RX-1 (stretched to 136") with Expert-X used a couple of years ago. The bumper was missing when I got it. Last year after a ride I noticed the arm the adjuster screws on (above the bumper) was broken, right at the base of the threads that the adjuster nut screws on. When I talked to Boivin they said it was because I didn' have the bumper, and it put too much stress on it. I since added the bumper. You are correct, it greatly limits how much transfer you get, even at max.
My question is, do you buy that as the reason the shaft broke on the transfer bar? I liked the transfer w/o it much better, but I don't want to break another one. And it isn't like I am popping wheelies all the time. But I do like to lift them a little every time I take off. It puts a smile on your face every time.
My question is, do you buy that as the reason the shaft broke on the transfer bar? I liked the transfer w/o it much better, but I don't want to break another one. And it isn't like I am popping wheelies all the time. But I do like to lift them a little every time I take off. It puts a smile on your face every time.
