expert x question

nodoo_s

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i have a viper with an expert x in it and do not have the inside plates mounted, just the outside one, no issues. i was wondering why you cant just use the inside plates and not put that big ugly plate on, or try and put just the big plate on the inside of the tunnel. yamaha stock mounts only use smalll plates on the inisde of the tunnel nothing on the outside.. what do you think, anyone do this yet.
 
did you drill out all rivets when you mounted yours so the outside plate was flush? i was thinking of doing that so it looks cleaner but i was alos thinking that the plate over the rivets let air in between the two plates allowing to dry in between. What is expert with dtr?
 
You *MUST* remove the rivets. In fact, the instructions say so quite specifically.

DTR: Dynamic Transfer Regulator. The bar that the front straps are connected to is levered against the top of the shocks, so when the suspension compresses, it pulls in the straps. Net result is that transfer remains constant throughout the stroke rather than increasing with stroke depth.
 
I just reread the instructions and it does say that. The sled i am taking it off from they did not use the insidre brackets or remove all the riverts so the outside was flush. did you get this dtr from ad boivin or some place else. what did it cost?
 
I think, correct me if I'm wrong LB, the DTR is on the 144"skids. Specificaly for the longer track versions of the Expert suspensions.
 
When I put an expert x in my srx a very respected installer said you can mount the big ugly plate on the inside of the tunnel and be done with it. I chose to put it on the outside of the tunnel per the instructions.
 
Here's the answer:

You can ceratainly mount the plate on the inside, you just have to do a LOT more leg work to ensure that all of the rivets and/or plates are removed from the area on the inside of the tunnel where the plate will rest up against it. You will also have to machine the ends of your adaptor bushings and/or cross shafts slightly in order to fit the plates inside the tunnel. The reasoning behind the "you must remove all plates, rivets/etc. between the plate and tunnel" is because the plate must be perfectly straight. If it is deflected off the side of the tunnel a little bit by something, it can buckle much more easily.

When I put the plate sinside on a ZR900 install, I actually drilled a couple of holes in the plate to accommodate a couple of large rivet heads and it was fine. Also, unless you are running an extremely long and/or 2-up touring sled, you can cut the reinforcement plate off just behind the rear mount and the install will be much simpler. If you all would like a drawing that shows how/where to do that, I can email it to you.

-JS
 
LazyBastard said:
It *comes with* longer suspensions and is optional for shorter ones. I have an extra (brand new never installed still in box). Supposed to be $200, I let go for $100 + shipping.

The DTR was stock on the older Experts and it worked well, but it was removed when the suspension became the "Expert X" which was supposed to be a sportier suspension than the original. If the DTR mechanism was built a little stronger, it would be a better feature, but as it is, it can fold up under hard/high hp use a little too easily.

Great feature though...
 
LazyBastard said:
It IS stock on the longer ones. And looking these things over, I really can't see them folding up. Its pretty strong.

I wasn't arguing that fact, I was simply adding that the older Experts (not X's) had that feature as a stock item.

Flatlanders rarely fold them up unless they're being abused. Mountain riders with high HP would fold them up from time to time. It's the rod that connects the rear upper cross shaft with the pivot arm pulling on the limiters that would often buckle.

A better system would be a 5/8" alum. shaft with tie rods at each end, but cost factors do not allow for that.
 
LazyBastard said:
It IS stock on the longer ones. And looking these things over, I really can't see them folding up. Its pretty strong.

BTW, how did your 144" install go after?
 
What they've got in there is stronger than a 5/8 aluminum with tie rods.

Their install instructions are garbage. They absolutely do NOT account for the fact that a longer skid will lift up higher at the rear. I had to put the rear mounts 1/2" lower than their instructions, and in addition, I had to modify my rear heat exchanger to lift it up by about an inch.
 
I shattered both the torsion springs on mine with in 400 miles. They said there was a bad batch. They were replaced at no charge. I was pounding on the skid pretty hard just before tho.
 


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