Snomonut: This is how I adjust my suspension:
Prequalification: :wink: I am a trail rider and I like the softest ride possible for the largest range of riding conditions I ride under. A slight bottoming out for the unknown big one is ok. I am not a ditch banger but I always want to have a feeling of control. If the settings are too soft you loose some of the feeling of control. I choose to spend the majority of my ride flat on my butt. I get into a more aggressive position only when I want to play. When the day wears on I especially like to sit back and drive it like it is a car.
In all cases I let the springs support the load and use the shocks to dampen the load variations.
I) I set the FRA to maximum. The FRA adjuster controls the amount of shock travel for a specific amount of spring deflection. We want the shock to dampen the bumps and travel the maximum amount for the range of spring deflection. I then set the clicker adjuster to minimum or near minimum. We will start with a low dampening rate for bumps.
2) I set the weight transfer controls to mid range. I like to leave the limiter straps to the factory settings.
3) I set the skis by lifting the front end to take the weight off the skis and let it back down easy and measure the height, bumper to floor. I then put all my weight on the bumper and adjust the ski springs for 11/2 to 2 inch decrease in this measurement. I lift the weight off the springs to off load the springs between adjustments. If so equipped, I set the shock dampening to mid range.
4) I place a pine board under both skis, with the runners I intend to use. I sit on the sled in my normal riding position. I then adjust the front suspension spring to give me a comfortable feeling or drag when I turn the handle bars. I generally make the wife’s lighter than mine. This gives you an indication of the feeling you get steering the sled on a hard packed trail.
5) I set the rear suspension by lifting the rear of the sled to relieve the spring and set it down easy and measure the distance from the bumper to the floor. I sit on the machine in my normal riding position and I adjust the rear spring to give me a 2 inch decrease in this measurement. Before I get back on the sled again I lift the weight off the spring to off load the spring.
This is my starting point.

I ride the sled on the trail and take notes as to how it feels.
I then fine tune the front end to provide good cornering under my style of riding. The corners should be bump free. This is the load carrying adjustment. If the front end squats or rolls too much in these turns set the skis springs slightly stiffer. If the shocks don’t have an adjuster, ski lift in these same corners can be adjusted in the same fashion as for rolling. This is a personal feel type of thing.
If the skis are equipped with a shock rate adjuster you can add additional bump control. If there is too much shock in the handle bars over reasonable size bumps hit straight on, set the shock adjuster lighter. If you have too much downward travel in the front end over these bumps set the shock adjuster heavier. This adjustment controls the dampening effect in response to a bump.
If you made a fairly large amount of adjustment to the front end repeat steps four and five above. If in doubt repeat four and five above.
Now is the time to adjust the rear of skid frame. Note that the load carrying ability of the skid frame was set in steps four and five above. Ride the sled on a trail with bumps of the size you would like too ride over in a some what leisurely manner. Use the clicker adjuster to increase the dampening until you can ride over bumps of the size you think are reasonable. The key is reasonable and with in your speed range with minimal bottoming out. Remember the stiffer you make the clicker adjustment the less travel the suspension will have over a given bump size. Less travel relates to the stiffness of the ride. This adjustment controls the dampening effect in response to a bump.
I hope this helps.
