Front strap with relocate

[ChiefMn]

I have a 2008 Nytro with a skid relocate and 128" ripsaw 2.I have read this both ways.I have the front strap as long as it gets.Will shorting it 1 or 2 holes transfer weight to the rear and give me lighter steering or do the opposite?And what the heck does the rear strap do?I can't find any info on this adjustment anywhere.

 

[Pstn head]

Shortining the front strap will put more pressure on the skis (heavier steering) more bite when turning and I believe less transfer to the rear skid. The rear strap if I remember correctly has to do with the rear ride height (suspension travel) but not 100% sure.

 

[ChiefMn]

I put in the skid relocate and the ripsaw 2 trying to free up the rear end.I was thinking if I lowered the ride height I could get it to slide the rear without feeling like it's going to high side.Might try tightening the rear strap.

 

[grizztracks]

I'm not sure why you would think the relocate would free up the rear. It's main purpose is to soften the approach angle which helps on the rough trails and tends to reduce trenching in deeper snow. The relocate will reduce transfer and the added track length adds traction which in return lessens the amount of rear slide. Going to a 128" is not a drastic change but the longer you go the less responsive the sled will be. If you want to corner better a good ski setup along with a lot of rider input is needed......

 

[ChiefMn]

I guess I was more referring to the ripsaw 2 as freeing up the rear as it's supposed to have less side bite.Put Tuner skis and OFT relocate on and I am really close to where I want to be on handling.Never had a sled with so many things to diddle with that it gets confusing where to go on setup

 

[fxnytrortxkid]

Tuners made it push like dump truck on my nytro. But was numb to trail issues more than other skis. I switched to C&A with 7.5" shapers and love them. Steering is heavy either way and it darts an it at low speeds but it goes where I point it. Oft relocate wrp seat an good skis with skid relocate are huge imo. And how sled should have come. Now with rear limiter it effects the ride height slightly (if you move it a lot) but it adjusts coupling more. I sucked mine in 2 holes but had hygear dual rate center spring and all their resivoir updates. They work awesome. Left front strap longer to transfer and help with ski pressure as it still turns awesome with C&A skis as it is. Hope any of this helps

 

[ChiefMn]

Here's the quote that threw me off.....
Suspension Uprades:__________________

* Hygear Axis Front Shocks, 18.25" lenght.

* Hygear Trail Pro Rear Suspension Pkg.

* OFT Big Nuts Two Wheel Rear Axle.

* JRE Proto3 Trail King Spindle.

* C&A Skis w/8"shaper bars.

* 128" Rails & Skid Relocate.

* Ice Attack 128" Track.

* Fly Carbon Snox Bars.

* Oilite Bushings.

* OFT Relocate.

* Fly 4" Risers.

* WRP Seat.

____________________________________





_____________________________

Darrin's FX Nytro Short Track Set-Up

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• Darrin's Nytro Short Track Set-Up

Rear skid adjustment can vary quite a bit between riders. With Darrin's set-up he likes

one hole tighter than stock on the front strap and stock with the rear strap. JRE has found tightening the front strap gradually improves handling, some owners running two -three holes tighter in front and one-two holes tighter than stock on the rear strap.... Don't be afraid of experimenting. The more you lower the rear ride height the less weight you have on the nose, less weight on the nose lightens steering effort and helps to balance the chassis weight evenly between both front and rear suspensions.

 

[fxnytrortxkid]

What part of quote is confusing. As it's my sled and set up I can answer any questions. I have made cpl changed but with the crappy winter last year I didn't get to see if they made much difference

Edit: as of last season I changed the rear strap, up 2 holes from stock (all the way out) I "think" it helped but as I said very limited riding time. The front I liked 1-2 holes tighter before but I also went all the way out to stock on front to try and lighten steering and allow it to keep its full range of transfer. It didn't seem to change the steering effort at all, and again didn't get to experiment much to see if I liked transfer/ride/handling with it like that. It felt really good but low snow and was soft snow conditions.

 

[ChiefMn]

Here's why I'm confused,both quotes by you....The more you lower the rear ride height the less weight you have on the nose, less weight on the nose lightens steering effort and helps to balance the chassis weight evenly between both front and rear suspension.......and.........

Edit: as of last season I changed the rear strap, up 2 holes from stock (all the way out) I "think" it helped but as I said very limited riding time. The front I liked 1-2 holes tighter before but I also went all the way out to stock on front to try and lighten steering and allow it to keep its full range of transfer.

 

[fxnytrortxkid]

Shortening rear strap will lower it slightly. But what I was checking but never got to see is I also believe it effects coupling which I wanted it to couple a bit faster. Think of it as teeter totter, it pivots on center shock. If you lower both of them the nose gets higher. It will push like crazy and have more pressure on skis, reason it will push is because it isn't sitting into the rear shocks it's actually sucked down, so it will remain bound down low instead of rebounding and transferring to the front skis.

By leaving front strap longer it will help lighten ski pressure when tightening the rear one because of teeter totter theory (but more preload on center shock along with full length strap helps more). Personally I didn't notice much of a difference in effort needed