Frozen air bypass valve

[rock doc]

Rock doc
I’ve been reading the posts here and couple things come to mind like is it possible you had a couple unrelated things happen that aren’t related to one another and your attributing it to one big issue which might not exist.

First thing I noticed on your post was condition you were riding in. We have experienced out west - Canada in extreme cold temperatures the air filter will plug with frost/ snow in 50 to 80 miles range. And I mean completely plug.

I feel you may have some amount of oily/water mixture in you air intercooler and this should removed and washed and dried out to eliminate that white oily goo in your air intake hoses. Or you may continue to have that white goo in your hoses no matter what else you do.

Another is you’ve got replies here indicating the oil level shouldn’t fluctuate.
In my experience it does on the Sidewinder and on My sled pretty much exactly how you described it. I park my sled in a heated garage same spot all the time. One day the oil is above full, next day below full, next day bang on and when it’s heated up the level is always higher. Which makes sense as you heat oil it expands.
I don’t feel you have coolant getting into your oil. Good advice from Turboflash is get it analyzed, any heavy truck shop in your area should have access to lab oil analysis.

One thing you mentioned was your coolant was dirty looking, that is a bad sign as your coolant even after many winters and mega mileage should appear clean.
My feeling is the coolant issue is all you need to concentrate on and not get bogged down by the intake and oil level. It only takes a pin hole leak somewhere and loose a cup of coolant and your sled will overheat.

Now here’s crazy story for you, one of my riding buddy’s worked for half his winter last year trying to fix his overheating issue on his 9000 Cat. Bleeding system in every way possible, tear his sled down, check it over. He’d start up his sled, warm it up, heat exhangers warm up nicely, jump on it test drive and 5 minutes down trail temperature light would be on. He did this process about three times over through out the weeks before he realized to switch his gauge to actually display coolant temperature. What he discovered was his sled was actually cooling down while driving and it was his low temperature light coming on.

Long story short he had a thermostat stuck open.

Sorry for the long read,
I really wish you well in finding out what’s going with your sled. These Sidewinders really are an awesome sled and I have been very impressed with mine.

 

[rock doc]

Rock doc
I’ve been reading the posts here and couple things come to mind like is it possible you had a couple unrelated things happen that aren’t related to one another and your attributing it to one big issue which might not exist.

First thing I noticed on your post was condition you were riding in. We have experienced out west - Canada in extreme cold temperatures the air filter will plug with frost/ snow in 50 to 80 miles range. And I mean completely plug.

I feel you may have some amount of oily/water mixture in you air intercooler and this should removed and washed and dried out to eliminate that white oily goo in your air intake hoses. Or you may continue to have that white goo in your hoses no matter what else you do.

Another is you’ve got replies here indicating the oil level shouldn’t fluctuate.
In my experience it does on the Sidewinder and on My sled pretty much exactly how you described it. I park my sled in a heated garage same spot all the time. One day the oil is above full, next day below full, next day bang on and when it’s heated up the level is always higher. Which makes sense as you heat oil it expands.
I don’t feel you have coolant getting into your oil. Good advice from Turboflash is get it analyzed, any heavy truck shop in your area should have access to lab oil analysis.

One thing you mentioned was your coolant was dirty looking, that is a bad sign as your coolant even after many winters and mega mileage should appear clean.
My feeling is the coolant issue is all you need to concentrate on and not get bogged down by the intake and oil level. It only takes a pin hole leak somewhere and loose a cup of coolant and your sled will overheat.

Now here’s crazy story for you, one of my riding buddy’s worked for half his winter last year trying to fix his overheating issue on his 9000 Cat. Bleeding system in every way possible, tear his sled down, check it over. He’d start up his sled, warm it up, heat exhangers warm up nicely, jump on it test drive and 5 minutes down trail temperature light would be on. He did this process about three times over through out the weeks before he realized to switch his gauge to actually display coolant temperature. What he discovered was his sled was actually cooling down while driving and it was his low temperature light coming on.

Long story short he had a thermostat stuck open.

Sorry for the long read,
I really wish you well in finding out what’s going with your sled. These Sidewinders really are an awesome sled and I have been very impressed with mine.

This is very helpful. thanks for taking the time to share this information. One point of clarification- the coolant has remained clean throughout this issue. We also cleaned the entire boost/intake including the intercooler. We also switched the gauge to show the temp. Unfortunately it has verified that the motor is overheating.

 

[budman 1000]

Oh man sorry to hear that it is overheating!

 

[WinderFab]

Any update ?

 

[rock doc]

Not yet. Likely a head gasket but should know more soon.

 

[rock doc]

Pic attached. Bad head gasket. Sending the head to be checked. Plan to put the ARP head bolts in...anything else I should do while it is apart. Plan to check all the coolant clamps, replace the exhaust bolts, and check the chaincase tension..

 

[Turboflash]

R U doing the ARP stud install?
I'm sure you know this but there is ONE shorter one and the other 7 are all same. The shorter one goes in top left hole as your looking down on head with PTO end on your left (mag side on right). If someone were to install one of the other studs in that place, it contacts and locks up the water pump and balance shaft gears. Ouch!

 

[rock doc]

R U doing the ARP stud install?
I'm sure you know this but there is ONE shorter one and the other 7 are all same. The shorter one goes in top left hole as your looking down on head with PTO end on your left (mag side on right). If someone were to install one of the other studs in that place, it contacts and locks up the water pump and balance shaft gears. Ouch!

That would suck!
Getting bolts from here. https://www.precisionefi.com/998-headstud

 

[Turboflash]

That would suck!
Getting bolts from here. https://www.precisionefi.com/998-headstud

Be sure to measure them. The one that's shorter is only about 1/8" to 3/16" shorter. However, maybe PEFI has all theirs shorter which would work. I got mine here (https://teamalbaracing.com/i-23900176-yxz1000r-yxz1000ss-arp-head-stud-kit.html).

 

[rock doc]

Be sure to measure them. The one that's shorter is only about 1/8" to 3/16" shorter. However, maybe PEFI has all theirs shorter which would work. I got mine here (https://teamalbaracing.com/i-23900176-yxz1000r-yxz1000ss-arp-head-stud-kit.html).

I think it is the same kit just an Eastern Canadian distributor. I may add some boost too.

 

[Turboflash]

I think it is the same kit just an Eastern Canadian distributor. I may add some boost too.

More boost is good!

 

[rock doc]

Turns out the head is cracked. Any advice on where the best place is to purchase a replacement? Any used ones around?

 

[rock doc]

I should clarify it is not possible to weld the crack - it is in a bad spot near a valve.