Fuel problem, mcx290

[FLYBYU]

Also buy a fuel pressure tester and tell us what the fuel pressure. Just because you see fuel moving doesn't mean you have enough pressure. Put it inline to the fuel rail. If don't have steady 40 P.S.I. your pump is weak. Why did you put another fuel filter on it? That also causes restrictions. Does this have an external fuel pump? I gave you a couple things to try. Let me know the results after tested.

 

[FLYBYU]

did a run about 40min later with a bag over the filter besides the turbo and it started right up.

starting to belive its the tempsensor anyway that tells the engine its warmer then it think, because it fires up or try the first try.

On this note The idle air control does all the high and low idle control. Not the temp sensor It's for the dummy light

 

[SLEDSTART]

Take the sledstart off, that could be your problem. We set these so can read the standard pulses from the stock ecu. If your pulses change due to a fuel controller. The pulses are different and that may shut the sledstart off prematurely or it will rev higher before it kills the engine. If it revs more than 4000 rpm it not seeing the correct pulse frequency. Elimnate sledstart first. Kurt will agree if this sounds like your problem. If it keeps cranking after the engine starts then you have cranking set way to long. I will send Kurt a link to this

Correct on the first part but I have never seen one rev hi if the controller is feeding the signal to sledstart.

The Sledstart WILL function correctly IF YOU HAVE THE INJECTOR CONNECTOR PLUGGED INTO THE CONNECTOR FROM THE SLED AND NOT THE FUEL CONTROLLER. In other words the SledStart is seeing the STOCK injector pulse.

I had a customer where the sled would remote start and run until his controller finished it's self test (Hauck unit) and once the lights on the controller finished going back and forth and it kicked in, the sled would die. He had the sled's injector connector plugged into the fuel controller then the fuel controller was plugged into the sledstart injector connector, then the sledstart to the injector itself. THIS WILL NOT WORK as joe mentioned the pulse the sledstart is seeing has changed from the fuel controller. If you reverse the order (stock connector from sled into the SledStart module then the sledstart to the controller then the controller to the injector) everything will work fine no matter what controller you run.
This way BOTH THE SLEDSTART AND YOUR CONTROLLER will see the stock pulse from the sled. Sledstart will see what it needs to see, and the controller will see what it needs to see and change the pulse accordingly and then feed that to the injector and everyone will be happy.

Reading this thread I do not think the sledstart is the problem. If it is anything I would check all your connectors from the sleds stock injector connectors that went to the injectors when stock all the way to the injectors. If your controller has a connector for each injector you have doubled your chances (plus one more set for the sledstart injector connectors) for a connection failure.

I have seen where when guys plug these in they get the male pin behind the female and it is making no connection (thus your sled is running on 3 cylinders) You have to finesse these and NOT force them on the injector OR the pigtails from the SledStart or your controller. They should click in easy IF they are done right.

I have also seen where either the male or female pins were not fully inserted into the connector housing. This causes the pin to push the out of the housing as you plug it in causing the male and female pins to be barley touching. Check ALL your male and female connectors from the sled to each injector for a bent MALE pin or a male OR female pin that was not "clicked" into the housing from the factory and is not pushed out.

If you are running on 3 cylinders this is the FIRST place I would look.

We talked about your toggle switch. That is not your issue. Both those switches can be bypassed by simply not hooking up the ground (NOT RECOMMENDED! but ok if your just testing)

Also if you want to bypass the sledstart just disconnect the injector connector and run the sled with the key and see how it behaves. No need to unplug the others. Maybe the ignition connector, but the brake you can leave alone. This one effects none of your symptoms.

As far as engine crank time, you really cant over-crank the engine. The starter will disengage after the engine fires but you will hear it stop spinning after the engine is running. If it's too long, adjust the time down in the remote. MOST sleds no matter what temp will get by on 1.9 in the remote setting.


Kurt

 

[SLEDSTART]

I just dont get it. I have made about 8 runs where it started right up now, and suddenly it didnt fire up with the sledstart set at 2sec at -13c.

Took the key and took about 5-6sek before it got to life... but it didnt just wake up.. it was more like the startermotor reved it up to a point where the engine took over..

I get mad at this.. i have made none changes to fuel and it hold the correct rev when idling.
I have no leaks etc. and didnt have this problem before.

what the **** is it.

By the way...the cr10ek's will give you harder cold temp starts without a doubt. Have read this a few times on here. So if your cranking and it's popping but not firing and it's pretty cold, I would say it could be because of the 10's...but that's AFTER you check what I wrote above,

 

[Jona$]

Im not talking about high and low. When the sled starts it runs fine. its getting it to start that is the pain in the #*$&@.

The airtemp reads how cold it is and therefore alternate the fuel it needs to start?

Anyways, gonna run diagmode today and pull out all numbers.

If i dont find anyting wron there, perhaps the fuelpressure, but that doesnt seem possible. I mean when it starts i can rev all i want and it responds instantly, This couldnt happen if the pressure was weak.. it sure must pull more fuel reving then starting it up.
And yes its external filter for safety and a external pump with the kit.

My Efi for the turbo i mounted in frount of the steering stem. But that cant be either because it only connects the extra fuel injectors when the turbo starts pulling.. not when to crank the engine. and as mentioned. the symptoms are more like it dont get the gas it needs.

sure the cr are possible harder to start. but keep in mind i had the same problem before with the orginal.

 

[Jona$]

And for Snowdog, thanks but dont belive then its the sledstart. because the engine runs on all cyl when fired up. it responds to quickly and hold the idle to good to be on only 3cyl.

 

[Jona$]

another update for snowdog, it was a bad wire. the black wire. gonna replace.

Also from diag mode i found out that that *throttle angle is good closed and open.
*atmospheric pressure 99
*intake air pressure 100
*intake temperature and coolant temperature booth show the same -13c as it tis now
*had low voltage 10.7v
*throttle switch works

So after testing this i tried starting her, she fired up in 2sec.
Noticed a smell of fuel and saw it pooring from the tank.. took of the seat and noticed i hadnt tighten the bolt that clams over the hoose to the tank, it was no problem moving it.
Tried starting it before tighten but couldnt se any fuel so gues its a slow build. tighten and started and wiped clean.

No leakage!

That is what i have come up to now.

 

[Jona$]

And by the way kurt if i understand this correct your saying that even if set the cranktime to 5sec and the sled start in 2. it will disengage the remaining 3sec?

because i had problem with it starting and put a bit higer and that time sled fired right up and i could here the starter going for a sec longer.

and if it would ground then the 2way should make its beep and not turn on the igniton

 

[Jona$]

Been talking on the phone with Erik for a while now "owner for MCxpress" and he has the same idea as me. try it out now and if it happens again change the plugs to org and do a pressurecheck on the fuelline.

 

[SLEDSTART]

And by the way kurt if i understand this correct your saying that even if set the cranktime to 5sec and the sled start in 2. it will disengage the remaining 3sec?

because i had problem with it starting and put a bit higer and that time sled fired right up and i could here the starter going for a sec longer.

and if it would ground then the 2way should make its beep and not turn on the igniton

That is correct. Your starter is turning but it is not engaged. If you turn your key to the start position as the sled is running you will hear the starter turn but it will not engage. So having a little longer crank time will not hurt it.

 

[FLYBYU]

Ok if you cycle the fuel pump 5 times and wait till it shuts off then turn the key off then back on and do this 5 times. i bet the sled will start right up. What your doing is building pressure in the line. I know this, I had the exact same problem. Would start and run fine but it couldn't hold the pressure. Once you put the fuel pressure gauge in there and isn't steady at 38 to 40 p.s.i. Bad fuel pump. Or after you shut the key off and it drops pressure instantly. It's suppose to hold pressure with the key off. It will drop a few p.s.i. but that's it.

 

[Jona$]

thanks flybu. After tighting the nipple to the hoose it has worked flawless whatewer time between the startup or temperature.

but today the fuelpump wouldnt turn. checked the pump, it was ok. checked the wiring from the split and it was complete and the relay clicked.. took of the relay and warmed it and tapped it. put it back and the fuelpump worked instant.

So i guess the relay is garbage and it can click when it get power but that doesnt mean it sends it further?

gonna make a order for a new one.

 

[FLYBYU]

Check the power at the pump. I'd still like to see you put a fuel pressure gauge in it. Low fuel pressure a high boost will equal bad things. Check summit racing. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-800199/

 

[Jona$]

well im gonna try run it for now.. want to ride as well. and it fired up since i fixed the hoose.

And regarding the relay had the same problem again. had to warm it with my hands again then it works.

and as i said, it didnt send any power to the pump.

well a pressuregauge is cheap. gonna buy one today.

 

[jd0270]

If you have any more trouble with it I would also suggest checking for leaking umbrella injectors.