Fuse size for accessory outlet?

[Gone Blue]

I added a 12v accessory outlet to my RTX and used it once last season to run a heated shield. When I used the heated shield it blew a 3.0 amp fuse within 20 miles of riding. So my question is has anyone run a heated shield thru a Phazer 12v accessory outlet and if so, what size fuse are you running?

I have the Yamaha accesory plug with the RCA that I have used on my RS GT sled with a heated shield for a number of years. I ran this setup on the RS with no issues. I dont recall but I think RS and APex sleds with the accessory outlet use a 3.0 amp fuse from the factory. So I am wondering if the Phazer needs to use a larger fuse for some reason? Or was the 3.0 amp fuse I used bad, does my used 12v oulet have a short, or do I have a short in my heated shield cable?

I added the 12v outlet so I could also run a GPS and I am wondering if I am going to have the same issue?

Thanks, G.B.

 

[Cubby]

I ran my heated shield throught the stock 3 amp fuse without any issues for 2 years. I even ran my 12 volt power supply for my GPS at the same time! Most heated shields draw from 15 - 20 watts. Divide that my 12 volt and you get 1 - 1.5 amps.

Last year I ran dedicated power off a relay for all my electroncis (shield, GPS, water temp gauge) on a 10 amp fuse. Its only live when the sled is running. It just simplies things.

 

[Grimm]

I say replace your cable if you've been using it for a couple of years. They tend to wear out and crack at the connectors, causing a short.

Also, how do you disconnect your cable from your sled? Disconnecting it from the shield and letting it dangle can trip the fuse if the rca jack touches anything metal. Disconnecting it after shutting off the sled is also a good idea.

 

[cannondale27]

X2 Blew my 3amp fuse once when I let cord dangle on tunnel. Bet that is what happened.

 

[Ultrafrozen]

The center contact is the hot lead. It's pretty hard for it to touch any part of the sled. The polarity might be reversed though. The new shields with LED lights don't work if the polarity is reversed. The diode part of "light emitting diode" act like a check valve.

 

[cannondale27]

Yea I have a extension on mine so the male end is dangling........ No not that.

 

[Mooseman]

I had an RCA plug next to the accessory plug, found it to be a PITA to plug in all the time. Installed an RCA wire in the handlebar dangling just under the light switch, much easier even though it takes two hands but it's faster.

If the wire falls off the helmet, that center electrode does stick out enough to short onto the tunnel (been there). The better ones have a positive lock system to prevent them from pulling out of the helmet. Maybe using small zip ties would keep them in.

The diode won't stop power from getting to the element. It's connected in parallel, not series. Proof is that it works on AC systems too. The LED just won't light if it's reversed. On AC systems, it will light only half the time but you won't notice because it's so fast.

 

[porkchop]

Ran my heated shield cord directly off the battery, use an extension with 2 male ends and just unplug it from the lead coming up near the bar riser.
No issues in 3 years.

 

[Gone Blue]

Thanks to all for your suggestions and input. The Yamaha plug with the RCA is one that I wired up. It was the plain or generic plug not the one sold with the RCA. So I have maybe a 4" wire with the RCA sticking out of the plug. When I would get off the sled, I would leave the plug in the outlet and disconnect the RCA helmet cord from the plug lead. So there is really no way the hot RCA could touch anything metal. I ran this plug and cord on my RS for a few years with no issue.

So I think I am down to a cord issue or an issue with the used outlet I bought.

The important thing I wanted to know was if a 3.0 Amp fuse could run the HS on a Phazer and the answer is "yes".

Thanks again, G.B.