these people on here that have pulled there entire gear case. and gears and chain have got to have something to set it back to the right starting point.
gear case grinding
- Thread starter 12pointer
- Start date
Yes there is. It is just what Mr Sled and I have been trying to explain to you.
Remove the detent dog and spring.
Rotate the "shaft" counterclockwise as you look at it from behind. Top towards center. as far as it can go.
The notch in the shaft needs to be at or near 6 oclock. If not, pull it rotate it and reinsert it.
Reinstall the dog and spring.
Install the actuator. It will have preload clockwise against spring tension which holds it into fwd gear.
Cat set this up so if you do it right you can't mess it up.
Last edited:
Allan
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Not sure if this is going to work but this is from the 2015 AC service manual
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Then there had to be something wrong in the first place. Its a 2015, talk to your dealer and see if Warranty will cover it.
yamaha06
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I am about to pull the chaincase apart on my sled sometime this weekend and this has me worried now lol, I haven't messed with the reverse actuator at all. I hope I don't run into these same issues. I just figured it was easy as pulling it apart and inserting everything back in not having to worry about twisting anything, and just cycle through forward and reverse like 3 times.
stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
I have had the case apart 4 times between our two sleds, reverse is easy just get it in forward and put reverse actuator in and done. Make sure to cycle it back and forth 3 times so it doesn't get between gears....makes aweful noise..lol
Don't split the oil tank from the chaincase.
One screw in the bodywork at the footwell.
Lower skid plate if you have one.
You can leave the oil tank full. Just remove the upper and vent and side return oil lines. You can flex the others enough to swing out of the way.
You should see what I mean once you are into it.
Watch for the thrust washer for the idler shaft that will stick to the cover and fall off. Hang it on the shaft and it will stay put.
One screw in the bodywork at the footwell.
Lower skid plate if you have one.
You can leave the oil tank full. Just remove the upper and vent and side return oil lines. You can flex the others enough to swing out of the way.
You should see what I mean once you are into it.
Watch for the thrust washer for the idler shaft that will stick to the cover and fall off. Hang it on the shaft and it will stay put.
Got my sled back and it was a upper bearing failure. Just now I wish they would have upgraded to the 16. Shaft and bearing. We need a sticky on step by step of pulling gear case and changing upper bearing and reassembly so we can all look at it while we do this job.
yamahaguy
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How many miles on your sled?
yamamarc
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I think there is a sticky on that subject in the frequently asked question section
about 2500 miles
yes but there is not a lot of pics showing everything inside and what to do step by step.
