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Got the call!

yamyfreak said:
I put the decals on the tunnel the pan and on the hood, if that is what you call it these days. Got the decals from the accessory catalogue. Also replaced the front bumper. As far as fit and finish. I am impressed. I've purchased new Yamahas in the past and had to tweak a few things. Much better than what I seen at the spring shows. :sled1:
Click to expand...

Looks good....tell me it's from RRY. Mine is the X-TX in heat red and it's not in yet. Was there no model decal on the the grill or did you remove it ??
 

Finally got the call saying she is in! Can go pick it up Wednesday. Ltx se in blue :-o
 
I got the call today that it is in , but they said I only have 15 days to pick it up , I'm out of town so it's going to be close but I don't under stand the 15 day thing anyway , not like I'm not going to take it
 
09nytro said:
I got the call today that it is in , but they said I only have 15 days to pick it up , I'm out of town so it's going to be close but I don't under stand the 15 day thing anyway , not like I'm not going to take it
Click to expand...

is yours blue/wight or black/red?
 
Sled looks great, congrats man! got mine from RRY two weeks ago, was the first one out there door. Decals look kewl. Where did you get the torque spec for tightening the suspension? I'm thinking I should check mine out. thanks
 
Alloy,

You can find torque specs on line. Some sites offer torque spec charts.

There are no service manuals available and to use the torque charts you have to be able to determine grade of fastener from the head stamp markings and bolt diameter.

If you can't easily find the information you need I would recommend using a box end wrench of the correct size and apply enough force, a moderate amount, to the fasteners. You will quickly find a tightening force that is correct to ensure any loose fasteners will have enough clamp force that they will not loosen during a normal ride, then when you get your manual you can torque them to specification.

Insure that any fasteners you do find loose you recheck after your rides until you have confidence that they will retain torque. Then ride the bogie wheels off of it.

Enjoy!
 
Guys I am of a different opinion on this. I would do one of two things. All bolts you can easily access either completely remove clean with good brake clean after wire wheeling,clean internal threads with tap,Loctite and torque then use a paint pen and mark from bolt/nut to surface so you can see if it moves,Never touch these properly done bolts again unless you intend to do process all over.

Other choice is paint mark all the bolts and hope factory properly Loctited and torqued them. Do not touch them with a wrench. Choice is yours.

I believe when you retorque a bolt the Loctite is ruined. Torquing does not prevent vibration from loosening a bolt over time Loctite does. I have NEVER had a properly Loctited bolt or nut come loose unless something else is wrong.
 
cannondale27 said:
Guys I am of a different opinion on this. I would do one of two things. All bolts you can easily access either completely remove clean with good brake clean after wire wheeling,clean internal threads with tap,Loctite and torque then use a paint pen and mark from bolt/nut to surface so you can see if it moves,Never touch these properly done bolts again unless you intend to do process all over.

Other choice is paint mark all the bolts and hope factory properly Loctited and torqued them. Do not touch them with a wrench. Choice is yours.

I believe when you retorque a bolt the Loctite is ruined. Torquing does not prevent vibration from loosening a bolt over time Loctite does. I have NEVER had a properly Loctited bolt or nut come loose unless something else is wrong.
Click to expand...

X2! Good info here
 
Cannondale27,

I would agree if his sled was coming in for a major overhaul that your selected actions should be evaluated.

This a new vehicle and in most cases locktite is not used in assembly. Getting a good clamp load and a minimal amount of fastener stretch is the ideal joint.

When you start adding locktite you now have a lubricated fastener and different torque values apply.

I do agree that having a clean fastener set is essential for good torque retention but would not like to see these new surfaces retapped. Hand tapping is never as good a process as the roll formed threads on a good fastener. We don't allow suppliers to make bolts or screws by cutting the threads. Seen too many failures where the heads pop off. On retapped nuts you can recut the minor diameter enough to reduce the clamp area by 20% or more also causing premature failures.

In this situation I believe it best to keep it simple and enjoy the ride, remember that Yamaha had their QC people on site which does not insure everything is perfect but provides a warm feeling that the manufacturing and quality systems were operated in a controlled manner. I would bet that they have a very high confidence level in the production process exceeding 98%.

It would be difficult for you or I to equal that in our own garage.

PS: your correct, torque striping is a great idea!
 
Just got back from dealer they have blue/white ltx se sitting on showroom they look friggin awesome in person.
 
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