Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
The below post came to me via a PM. I am not suposed to handle these types of requests via PMs. So, ... I posted it so we all can benefit from this one. Which is O.K. I am sure the user will chime in, at some point.
I have the 2003 RX-1 ER.
While riding last weekend, the guy behind me said that my brake light is stuck on, I thought it was some ice in the switch. Then, the dash started blinking an 0-2 code. The manual shows that this may be related to the hand-warmer curcuit not getting enough power..!! Maybe because most of the power is going to the filliments in both tail lights?? Do you think I have a brake switch failure...
Maybe a hand-warmer failure ? They didn't warm up even on high. The code goes AWAY when the power to the warmers is reduced down to bottom on dash screen.
I have the 2003 RX-1 ER.
While riding last weekend, the guy behind me said that my brake light is stuck on, I thought it was some ice in the switch. Then, the dash started blinking an 0-2 code. The manual shows that this may be related to the hand-warmer curcuit not getting enough power..!! Maybe because most of the power is going to the filliments in both tail lights?? Do you think I have a brake switch failure...
Maybe a hand-warmer failure ? They didn't warm up even on high. The code goes AWAY when the power to the warmers is reduced down to bottom on dash screen.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
I suspect that the code is related to the hand warmers. That is why the code goes away when you shut them off.
I would suggest that you look at the wiring harness near the ECU. It may be chaffing and causing some momentary problems with the Grip Warmer Switch circuit or the Grip Warmer’s power circuit. This is a problem known to frequently occur on ’03 RX-1s.
If there is no chaffing near the ECU, then test the Grip warmers individually. Unplug them and look for continuity across each individual grip warmer. They typically fail open. An indication of open would be infinite ohms across the grip warmer.
The brake light being lit, all the time, is a different problem. This is straight forward. I think you may have already identified the problem, the switch. It could be frozen or broken. You can test that by un-plugging the switch and testing for continuity through the switch. Brake pulled, you should get a closed circuit. Brake not pulled, the switch is Open (i.e. no continuity). The only other way to power the brake light all the time would be if the wiring was somehow shorted into some other wire carrying 12 VDC, which is un-likely. Usually when we pinch a wire, it is shorted to ground and the fuse blows, etc.
I would suggest that you look at the wiring harness near the ECU. It may be chaffing and causing some momentary problems with the Grip Warmer Switch circuit or the Grip Warmer’s power circuit. This is a problem known to frequently occur on ’03 RX-1s.
If there is no chaffing near the ECU, then test the Grip warmers individually. Unplug them and look for continuity across each individual grip warmer. They typically fail open. An indication of open would be infinite ohms across the grip warmer.
The brake light being lit, all the time, is a different problem. This is straight forward. I think you may have already identified the problem, the switch. It could be frozen or broken. You can test that by un-plugging the switch and testing for continuity through the switch. Brake pulled, you should get a closed circuit. Brake not pulled, the switch is Open (i.e. no continuity). The only other way to power the brake light all the time would be if the wiring was somehow shorted into some other wire carrying 12 VDC, which is un-likely. Usually when we pinch a wire, it is shorted to ground and the fuse blows, etc.
standard
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Brake light, hand-warmer issue...
Thanks Len.
I have a new switch to install...hope that takes care of the tail-light being ON all the time.
I'll get my digital meter out and test hand-warmers..
Thanks a bunch
Tom
Thanks Len.
I have a new switch to install...hope that takes care of the tail-light being ON all the time.
I'll get my digital meter out and test hand-warmers..
Thanks a bunch
Tom
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Hey Standard;
How you making out on this?
How you making out on this?
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Have not done a thing.
I still have to install the switch, and ohm out the warmers.
To much work, so little time.!
I still have to install the switch, and ohm out the warmers.
To much work, so little time.!
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Life is being cruel. Eh? 
I bet its chaffing not the switch..
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Well the switch has been changed, the stop light now works correctly.
Added oil, now the dash solid light is off.!
Still waiting to get new hand warmers from the dealer.
Thanks for all the info.
Tom
Added oil, now the dash solid light is off.!
Still waiting to get new hand warmers from the dealer.
Thanks for all the info.
Tom
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
What readings did you get on the Grip Warmers?
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ohms on grip warmers
no ohms on left side...no continuity...BAD for sure.
1.8 ohms on the right side...is this the resistance of the thumb warmer?
OR do I have both hand warmers bad.
Will I get 12 volts to the warmers on startup, or increase RPM to get more voltage?
Thanks
Tom
no ohms on left side...no continuity...BAD for sure.
1.8 ohms on the right side...is this the resistance of the thumb warmer?
OR do I have both hand warmers bad.
Will I get 12 volts to the warmers on startup, or increase RPM to get more voltage?
Thanks
Tom
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Infinent ohms is bad! 1.8 ohms is good! Looks like you only have to replace 1 grip warmer.
The Thumb Warmer is on another circuit.
The Thumb Warmer is on another circuit.
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OK
Thanks
Thanks
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Got the new hand warmer, cut the hole in the very end to put the end csp on. Fired it up...same code. Put the meter on, no ohm's, twisted it around, then got 2.0 ohms. I think it has an internal problem, I'll see how long it lasts. I can't take it back for a replacement because of the hole. I am sure I didn't hit anything when cutting the hole.!
Tom
Tom
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Who knows what happened. But, if you replace it again, you may want to consider testing it thoroughly before cutting.
What is an "end csp." I guess I am wondering why you cut a hole in it? Was this an OEM replacement part? And if the hole did damage, I am wondering if you can get at the wires by the hole so you could repair them? Or, ... maybe the wires broke elsewhere when the hole was cut? (e.g. handling when cutting?)
I guess, ... I am just interested to know more about what happened. Never heard of your problem before.
What is an "end csp." I guess I am wondering why you cut a hole in it? Was this an OEM replacement part? And if the hole did damage, I am wondering if you can get at the wires by the hole so you could repair them? Or, ... maybe the wires broke elsewhere when the hole was cut? (e.g. handling when cutting?)
I guess, ... I am just interested to know more about what happened. Never heard of your problem before.
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Don't know if it's OEM or not. It's a black plastic knob, that helps with your hands sliding off the grips. It's held in with a 1/4 -20 bolt that wedges itself inside the handle bars....like a bicycle's goose neck...remember those days.???
I should have tested at the dealer, but my son picked it up for me...I have learned.!!!
When we sqeeze in the middle of the grip....not installed on bars..(in our hand) at the write spot, the wires touch, and get 2 ohms. We slid it onto the bars, gave it some twists, got connection, then taped it in place. I don't expect it to last.
I'll test the next one at the dealer.!!!
I should have tested at the dealer, but my son picked it up for me...I have learned.!!!
When we sqeeze in the middle of the grip....not installed on bars..(in our hand) at the write spot, the wires touch, and get 2 ohms. We slid it onto the bars, gave it some twists, got connection, then taped it in place. I don't expect it to last.
I'll test the next one at the dealer.!!!
