yves F 7
Pro
do i have to remove the suspension to remove the shock,i think that my wires are cut near the base of the shock.
nate007
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You don't have to, but removing the rear two bolts and supporting the rear of the sled in the air will help with working room.
Also try removing all the preload from the spring before taking the bolts out.
Also try removing all the preload from the spring before taking the bolts out.
T-Bone
Expert
I have had my shock off several times and what seems to work best for me is to raise the rear of the sled off the ground, support track with floor jack, and remove limiter strap and transfer rod. May have to raise or lower the jack a little but it frees the entire suspension and shock bolts should come right out. Dont forget to disconnect the wire at the shock head before removing the shock. Good Luck
Blue Dave
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First remove the rear mounting bolt from the transfer rod. With the rear of the sled lifted you will just need to lift up on the track slightly to take the pressure off of the transfer rod and the bolt will pull right out.
With the transfer rod disconnected you can easily remove both shock mounting bolts by simply moving the rear arm until the shock is unloaded and the bolts will pull right out.
Getting the shock out and back in does require some "finagling" around but it can easily be done without having to touch the spring preload or the limiter strap.
With the transfer rod disconnected you can easily remove both shock mounting bolts by simply moving the rear arm until the shock is unloaded and the bolts will pull right out.
Getting the shock out and back in does require some "finagling" around but it can easily be done without having to touch the spring preload or the limiter strap.
yves F 7
Pro
thanks guys
Reaper
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Anyone know the correct way to tie wrap the wire to the shock, there was an update to stop it from getting cut and need a pic of how that is done.
yves F 7
Pro
i would like to know toReaper said:Anyone know the correct way to tie wrap the wire to the shock, there was an update to stop it from getting cut and need a pic of how that is done.
harm67
Extreme
yves F 7
Pro
cool that is great
Reaper
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Beautiful, thx !
yves F 7
Pro
Fu...,removed my shock and the wires are ok,continuity on them and continuity when they are plugged,but no diff from soft to hard,cant believe that my shock is shut,there is no apparent leaks on it,any one had the same problem?
SledFreak
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Reaper said:Anyone know the correct way to tie wrap the wire to the shock, there was an update to stop it from getting cut and need a pic of how that is done.
I thought you had an XP?
Blue Dave
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yves F 7 said:Fu...,removed my shock and the wires are ok,continuity on them and continuity when they are plugged,but no diff from soft to hard,cant believe that my shock is shut,there is no apparent leaks on it,any one had the same problem?
Does the display change when you adjust up and down? If so, the wiring is fine. Mine did not seem to make much of a difference until I got it revalved at Carver Performance. With the re-valve I can feel the difference more between soft & firm on the EC.
yves F 7
Pro
yes,the display changes,it use to make a big difference,i will probably have to have it rebuilt.
harm67
Extreme
Check this out!
http://www.shocktec.ca/info1.html
I live in alberta and had my shock back in 4 days rebuilt and revalved to my ride weight and style for less than 100 bones!
http://www.shocktec.ca/info1.html
I live in alberta and had my shock back in 4 days rebuilt and revalved to my ride weight and style for less than 100 bones!
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