Jack_Shaft
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Well, this is a work in progress, but attached you will find a worksheet that you can use to fill in the blanks and then go to work.
There are some people who have already used this guide to do installs (including me) and it works well. For those people who have already installed skids in their RX-1, I would like you to populate this thread with posts having the dimensions for an SC-10 III skid, SC4, Thundercat FasTrack, etc.
For my case, a Polaris Pro-X 136" skid had the following dimensions:
Y1 = 6.5"
Y2 = 5.375"
Y3 = 5.3125"
X1 = 9.5"
L1 = 27.25"
Y3 can be at the discretion of the individual, depending on what rear height you are looking for. Generally, you want to use exactly as was on the donor sled.
Any questions? Just post.
There are some people who have already used this guide to do installs (including me) and it works well. For those people who have already installed skids in their RX-1, I would like you to populate this thread with posts having the dimensions for an SC-10 III skid, SC4, Thundercat FasTrack, etc.
For my case, a Polaris Pro-X 136" skid had the following dimensions:
Y1 = 6.5"
Y2 = 5.375"
Y3 = 5.3125"
X1 = 9.5"
L1 = 27.25"
Y3 can be at the discretion of the individual, depending on what rear height you are looking for. Generally, you want to use exactly as was on the donor sled.
Any questions? Just post.
Attachments
boat.man
Extreme
Jack_Shaft
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Just to make sure that your conventions are the same as mine, you treated the underside of the 1"x1" aluminum tunnel protectors as the top of the tunnel, right?
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This would be a great addition to the Tech Section on the main site....anyone willing to put this together in a words doc. I can make that word doc into HTML and this will get you added to the drawing for the a Free Tech Prize.
kinger
VIP Member
Sled- I was preparing a word doc how to for my Edge skid install, I will send it to you.
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OK, Let me know when it gets sent.
Tom
Tom
boat.man
Extreme
Jack_Shaft said:Just to make sure that your conventions are the same as mine, you treated the underside of the 1"x1" aluminum tunnel protectors as the top of the tunnel, right?
I measured from the very top of the tunnel
When you look at the bracket it makes sense because some of the holes line up
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
<<<Y3 can be at the discretion of the individual, depending on what rear height you are looking for. Generally, you want to use exactly as was on the donor sled. >>>
Getting ready to do a 121" Pro X conversion, so have been looking for/studying ideas on conversions. Have to disagree with the above comment. In my (mostly Polaris) experience, if the Y3 is too long and the mounting point is installed below optimum, you'll have a situation where the rear torsion springs are carrying too much weight, and potentially, will not fully extend properly because of that (the dreaded 'droop' issue). This is because the front skid spring isn't being allowed to carry it's fair share of the load.
Too, using exact Y2 & Y3 dimensions from a donor sled can lead to the same kind of weight distibution problems if large differences in front end ride height or tunnel shape are involved - project vs. donor sleds (eg. Edge vs. Pro X vs. RX). I do believe they are good starting points, but should be double checked prior to making a final decision on mounting height. I don't believe the X1 and L1 dimensions are so flexible, and should be used as is without a solid understanding of the geometry involved. Just me.
Getting ready to do a 121" Pro X conversion, so have been looking for/studying ideas on conversions. Have to disagree with the above comment. In my (mostly Polaris) experience, if the Y3 is too long and the mounting point is installed below optimum, you'll have a situation where the rear torsion springs are carrying too much weight, and potentially, will not fully extend properly because of that (the dreaded 'droop' issue). This is because the front skid spring isn't being allowed to carry it's fair share of the load.
Too, using exact Y2 & Y3 dimensions from a donor sled can lead to the same kind of weight distibution problems if large differences in front end ride height or tunnel shape are involved - project vs. donor sleds (eg. Edge vs. Pro X vs. RX). I do believe they are good starting points, but should be double checked prior to making a final decision on mounting height. I don't believe the X1 and L1 dimensions are so flexible, and should be used as is without a solid understanding of the geometry involved. Just me.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
I have about 3000 miles on the ProX conversion now and have found no downside. There have been no repairs required other than a set of hyfax, but those were burnt up in spring conditions and not unexpected.
I've done a few conversions in the past, but this one was by far the easiest. There is no work required for the front mounting points, they are a straight bolt in for the ProX, and if the dimensions I have access to are correct, they show the same for both the IQ and Fusion suspensions, though the rear mounting dim is slightly different. No big deal.
For the rear, the original plates are removed by drilling out the pop rivets holding them in place, along with the 2 bolts. New plates large enough to cover the original pop rivet holes (been a while but thinking 5x7"?) are cut from something about 3/16 thick or so. Hold them in place, match drill through original rivet holes, and fasten in place with new rivets (prepainted with black paint?). Then match drill the original front bolt hole and install that bolt, leaving the rear hole empty. That bolt will interfere with the TSL link if used. Now measure back from the front mounting point 23 and 11/16" (for the PRO X, slightly different for IQ/fusion) and drill your new rear mounting hole. That's it. Mount up the new suspension.
2 notes regarding my install. First I had installed extrovert drivers to try and get some control over the Proactive. That caused some grief with this install, causing me to have to shorten the rails by an inch or so. Then I had to install an anti stab kit to control that... Current thinking is all this will be avoided on machines with factory drivers.
Second, I had a set of HD (.405) springs left over from another project. I installed them, but not sure they were necessary either. I'm an aggressive driver, 280lb plus gear and snow/ice buildup, running my cams on medium. Stock springs run with overload cams should easily match this capacity, if not exceeding it.
The pic of the suspenions side by side show the difference in the 2 suspensions with the front mounting points lined up - so you can see about what to expect when looking for about where that new rear point needs to be. Should also mention here one of my main goals accomplished was to have the sled set at original ride height. It appears totally stock to the casual observer.
If you'd like more info/pics just holler - here or via PM.
email: michahicks@aol.com
I've done a few conversions in the past, but this one was by far the easiest. There is no work required for the front mounting points, they are a straight bolt in for the ProX, and if the dimensions I have access to are correct, they show the same for both the IQ and Fusion suspensions, though the rear mounting dim is slightly different. No big deal.
For the rear, the original plates are removed by drilling out the pop rivets holding them in place, along with the 2 bolts. New plates large enough to cover the original pop rivet holes (been a while but thinking 5x7"?) are cut from something about 3/16 thick or so. Hold them in place, match drill through original rivet holes, and fasten in place with new rivets (prepainted with black paint?). Then match drill the original front bolt hole and install that bolt, leaving the rear hole empty. That bolt will interfere with the TSL link if used. Now measure back from the front mounting point 23 and 11/16" (for the PRO X, slightly different for IQ/fusion) and drill your new rear mounting hole. That's it. Mount up the new suspension.
2 notes regarding my install. First I had installed extrovert drivers to try and get some control over the Proactive. That caused some grief with this install, causing me to have to shorten the rails by an inch or so. Then I had to install an anti stab kit to control that... Current thinking is all this will be avoided on machines with factory drivers.
Second, I had a set of HD (.405) springs left over from another project. I installed them, but not sure they were necessary either. I'm an aggressive driver, 280lb plus gear and snow/ice buildup, running my cams on medium. Stock springs run with overload cams should easily match this capacity, if not exceeding it.
The pic of the suspenions side by side show the difference in the 2 suspensions with the front mounting points lined up - so you can see about what to expect when looking for about where that new rear point needs to be. Should also mention here one of my main goals accomplished was to have the sled set at original ride height. It appears totally stock to the casual observer.
If you'd like more info/pics just holler - here or via PM.
email: michahicks@aol.com
Attachments
Kevin Garceau
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
download isnt working....looking for dimensions for the IQ skid.
Sidewinder
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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I want to put SC10 skid into my Apex, which one is better suited for this swap 10-1--2-3?
real
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Am about to install an SC10-2 in a RX-1 will keep ya posted
I want to put SC10 skid into my Apex, which one is better suited for this swap 10-1--2-3?
Z-Rider
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2007 Phazer Mountain Lite
Anyone have the dimensions for installing an SC10-3 in a 2003 RX1?
Thinking this will be my skidframe of choice with extensions to install the 144” track I have on hand
Thinking this will be my skidframe of choice with extensions to install the 144” track I have on hand
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sc-10 -3 install on 03 rx-1 help !!!
has anyone installed sc-10 skid to rx-1 if so how or what the best way i'm sure its on the site some where can't find it :Rockon:
ty4stroke.com
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