Guys help please! Boost does not want to stick around?

[Skydog]

Well i have the 03 Rx1 with a Bender 2 on it got the clutching right on. Now for my real problem. Why sled loses boost? I have a B.O.V. on it. To adj. my boost i have to switches on the back. Frist off the trailer both switches down low boost about 5 psi ok feels good. One switch up about 9 Psi ok great now rpms are about 10,800 Now for high boost both switches up frist pull about 12 psi about 10,900. I think that is kind of funney i should be on the revlimiter showing about 14psi??? So i ride around the feild to give it a go again. Now about 10psi???? 10,500 RPM??? I feel the switches on the back thinking they can not be both up but there are??That is where the max boost stuck pass after pass? Where did 4-5 psi of boost go? So where to start?


#1 B.O,V. leaking after it warms up? What if my little tees that go to the BOV are leaking after they warm up? Under boost the vacum line going to the B.O.V. pushes boost up to the vavle to hold it shut right?


#2 Waste gate?? Should i just unplug the line going down to the waste gate? So it will be full boost and will not bypass at all and see if i still lose boost?


#3 leaking charge tube?? Man i would not think so all hose clamps are good and tight? No holes any where and if there was i would lose boost all the time. Has to be some thing that heat would cause to leak or??

To make things worse i am looking under the sled at stuff and aahh look at all that green sh-t! Put a hole in my rear heat ex.

Skydog

 

[Skydog]

I just looked at all my carb boots look great but i was able to tighten the claps about 5 turns each? Wounder if that was it. Well open for input guys! This stuff drives me nuts i will be up all night.

Put some JB weld on the rear heat exchanger hope it holds for a few days till i get a new one.

Skydog

 

[Travis Moore]

If you suspect the BOV, you can always fabricate a block off plate for it to eliminate it from the picture. As far as the WG, yes if you remove the hose you will be at maxiumum boost, so that could be a troubleshooting tool also. Personally i'd suspect a leak in the charge tubing somewhere. You can always make a plug/cap for the turbo inlet and put a air fitting in it and regulate the pressure down to pressurize the system and look for leaks!

 

[Skydog]

Thank you

 

[Skydog]

Ok i am going to presure up the charge tube from turbo to the intercooler. Will let you guys know what i find. I did block off the B.O.V. too.
If i find it is all ok it has to be the waste gate. Any way to check this?

Skydog

 

[Skydog]

Well Well!!! The new TurboXS leaks like a pig. With a hand pump it will not even hold 1PSI! That has to be it, then when the B.O.V. gets warm the metal expands a little bit and i bet it leaks even worse!! And the Bender turbo i am running is maxed out at 13psi so it just cant keep up! Right??!!

So back to the Farm and Fleet for a plug.

MAtt P.S. BOV should not leak at all should they?

 

[Ted Jannetty]

Go to a Vortech 38 mm race bypass that I am running, it has an oring seal on it, it won't leak, plus the spring pressure is adjustable.

Ted.

 

[Travis Moore]

For now, just build a little block off plate for it. You arent going to kill the turbo running without it. When the time comes for a new one, i'd reccomend a pull style(HKS)...on those boost forces the BOV SHUT, not relying on a spring and refrence pressure to keep it shut.

 

[Skydog]

Here are some pic of my self booster pump!HAHA
I wounder if any one makes a better BOV that will fit on my nice welded on pipe? O.D. is 15/16"

The BOV that i have will not even hold 1 psi of boost! PILE OF SHIWERTRTERTFGFF!!!!

 

[Skydog]

Few more

 

[Skydog]

Last one of BOV.

 

[woodsrider]

In theory, the spring in the Turbo-xs BOV is 11-13#'s. The spring side of the poppet (hose connection on BOV) is conected to the engine side of the carb (connect to one of the vacuum ports on the carb boot). Your BOV should be shut when your engine is at idle. If the valve leaks air at idle you need to add shims under the the spring to increase spring tension. As your boost level increases the boost pressure is equal on both sides of the BOV valve poppet (technically its not but for speaking purposes we'll say it is) the spring holds the BOV closed. When you close the throttle a vacuum occurs on the spring side of the BOV and pressure on the turbo side of the poppet and the vacuum from the motor opens the BOV.

I, myself would not recommend running your sled with the waste gate not working properly. Your boost could get very high very fast.

I have also heard that it is not a good Idea to "stack" boost controllers on the waste gate. They do not function consistently. Again, I am not speaking from personal experience just from stuff I've read and heard.

 

[Skydog]

No the valve is not opening it is just leak around the two parts! The inner pluger and the outter shell.

Skydog P.S. Thank you for some info!

 

[woodsrider]

Skydog, if I'm not mistaken, I believe that that BOV is a poppet type valve and the seat of the poppet might be damaged or has something in it that is preventing it from sealing. Or it may be the the o-ring on the spring side. The op of the valve where the hose connection is screws on and off. Perhaps this is loose or like I said a bad o-ring.

 

[Skydog]

Here are a few pic. of the BOV as you can see there is no o-ring for the pluger to seat on and seal when closed? One o-ring for it to seal to the pipe i welded on the charge tube. The pluger just sits on a c-clip! Maybe it i could get a o-ring and put on top of the c-clip to make it seal? Is it missing this from new maybe??

Thank you Skydog