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handling tips/questions

devil

Extreme
Joined
Feb 29, 2008
Messages
101
Location
edmonton, alberta
ok, i'm not super expert on sled suspension setup so i'm going to ask and try out some tips i (hopefully) get from here.

08 MTX
mcx turbo kit
stock front suspension minus the sway bar, stock skis w/ rubbers turned around so that the skis don't tip down. oilite bushings, 2mm mod to the upper ball joints.
stock rear except for stiffer apex mtn torsion springs and rail extensions to a 162x15 track.
i am 210ish before gearing up.


limiter strap pulled up 2 holes because of the extra power. preload on the torsion springs is on softest right now, the control rods are set same as when i picked it up from the dealer.

the sled is fine in powder and climbing, on bumpy trails its not so good. the sway bar removal didn't help i know. if i keep on the gas a bit and sit further back to keep some weight off the skis its better in the turns, but if i let off hard it darts a lot and will try and bounce to the outside of the turn really bad. it doesn't bottom out in the rear anymore with the new springs.

obviously i want to try and keep the limiter strap where it is now so that it doesn't wheelie too bad when climbing.

any tips would be much appreciated.
 

are you running stock drop brackets or aftermarket? i had to drill new holes in my timbersled drop brackets to suck the skid into the tunnel about 3/4 of an inch. this seemed to really help with the trail darting and skis dipping in the pow.
 
I would try setting your limiter straps so you have the ski pressure you desire and use the the transfer rods on the rear suspension to try to control transfer before sucking up the limiter straps just for transfer control, if that all makes any sense to you. how many pounds of boost are you running? The 162 track will help control transfer by itself.
 
running 10lbs of boost right now but i was planning on trying it out at 12 and 14psi this year to see how it does. I'm not trying to push for huge power, just want a couple extra psi in the mountains at higher altitude.

i will try putting the limiter back up one hole and adjust the transfer rods and see how that does for me.
I am also going to be blocking off some holes so hopefully i will have far less ice build up and extra weight on the nose from that.
 
If you have bent the subframe, chances are you have a trailing problem. If the skis aren't trailing the same it will make it handle awefully!
 
first day out everything was straight as an arrow, toe was perfect, etc. still sucked on rough trail. last year it was better, but last year i still had the stock suspension all around, still had the sway bar (which i know is a big part of why its worse on the trails), didn't have the longer track, etc. my subframe is also reinforced now so the chances that it bent are lessened, could very well have just been the control arm that bent.

last day riding was at a place with a 27km trail in, on the way out its always rough so i got a little bit more used to it and made sure not to fully let off when slowing down, i found that helped. as well as keeping my weigh further back and leaning into the turns more to prevent it trying to tip as much.

I'm not looking for it to be super awesome or anything, its a mountain machine, doesn't have the adjustable shocks or any of that stuff so i know i can only do so much.
 
i pulled my machine into the garage, after diagnosing a running issue with overboosting i took the front nose piece off as well as the bumper. the subframe looks like its visibly bent. which sucks, but not really a surprise. after the snow and ice melts off i will take some measurements, straighten it as much as i can and get the toe set again.
 
well i adjusted the suspension as recommended, dropping the strap one hole and adjusting the transfer. i also adjusted the front shocks to get the front end to sit a bit higher (partially just to compensate for sitting lower when there is ice build up underneath as well)

much less weight transfer to the skis when letting off the gas hard which transfered into less darting and jumping around on the bumpy trails, keep an even low throttle going through turns and she turns in nice and goes right through the turns with no drama. In the powder when climbing it doesn't try to wheelie too bad with the dropped strap either, if i turn the boost up more that will become more of an issue though i'm sure.
 


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