Hannen performance clutch weights

[1049triple]

Anybody had a chance to try Hannen Performance clutch weight and how do they feel and performed compared to a Dalton profile or anything else?

 

[STAIN]

Never heard of them

 

[DooZ]

Never heard of them

Hannen Performance is a big name in the Go Fast Game. I'm not sure if these are race application only.

 

[74Nitro]

Never heard of them either.
I prefer a little engagement bump on any weight I use.

 

[KnappAttack]

Same style as the old Hurricane/Hannen Supertuner weight from the photos, barring the old crappy two piece bushings the old design they had. I tried them and they were decent enough, but myself would much prefer Dalton weights for a Yamaha primary for easier weight and balance changes.
Unless you are racing and looking for say ultimate belt grip down low, there is no reason for a special profiles at all either. Trail sleds spin in the snow and with carbide and unsharpened studs and can't use any type of aggressive or special profiles down low. With clutch weights, it's all about the balance and force on the roller or belt, which these will provide for sure if you like taking them out to make changes.

I used to build my own weights designed for ultimate belt grip and pinch down low for Drag Racing, but they would not work well for trail use. Honestly for trail use, you can make any of them work but the key is making the clutch recipe efficient in shifting the belt without using the forces to blow the clutch up or blow the roller out of it. In other words, use the weight energy to use their force applied towards the belt and not towards the roller.


These were the old Hannen designed weights for the Yamaha.

 

[1049triple]

Great info you bring.
I am looking for the ultimate weight for snow drags without studs... for the moment. Right now I run DTYA1, but I want to try shorter gearing and way more top end weight with less big punch down low for more traction.
This weight look like they are build to be modded. It is really high at the beginning. It could be What I like is they are almost like the old Drag'n'fly so you can put more weight in the tip behind the weight.

 

[Daveo99]

Same style as the old Hurricane/Hannen Supertuner weight from the photos, barring the old crappy two piece bushings the old design they had. I tried them and they were decent enough, but myself would much prefer Dalton weights for a Yamaha primary for easier weight and balance changes.
Unless you are racing and looking for say ultimate belt grip down low, there is no reason for a special profiles at all either. Trail sleds spin in the snow and with carbide and unsharpened studs and can't use any type of aggressive or special profiles down low. With clutch weights, it's all about the balance and force on the roller or belt, which these will provide for sure if you like taking them out to make changes.

I used to build my own weights designed for ultimate belt grip and pinch down low for Drag Racing, but they would not work well for trail use. Honestly for trail use, you can make any of them work but the key is making the clutch recipe efficient in shifting the belt without using the forces to blow the clutch up or blow the roller out of it. In other words, use the weight energy to use their force applied towards the belt and not towards the roller.


These were the old Hannen designed weights for the Yamaha.
View attachment 179833

What type of profile do you consider ultimate belt grip down low? Flatter or more of a hump? I believe that a flatter profile will help keep the engine rpms down. The flatter profile you use I feel the force on the roller is greater. "Flatter weights want to blow the roller outward with less angle and more weight, more aggressive weights apply more pressure towards the belt with less weight when upshifting, The flatter weight will untuck better right from engagement applying more force. Well on the belt yes it would, but with the rollers and pressure against the roller its kind of a different situation. Its about the angle you are hitting the rollers at compared to the arm, and the weight needed to force the roller and weight into the belt. It might be better to explain it in different and simple terms, so imagine for a moment just using a wedge between the rollers and the movable. You have two wedges to chose from, one a 90 wedge, and another 45 degree wedge, both will move the movable, but with the 45 degree wedge it will put less stress on the roller and move further dong the same work with less angle, the force on the roller is more efficient when you are working more inline with the travel of the movable rather than the travel that is away from the movable. The quickest 60 foots are when they are boarder line to bogging and pulling the engine to its knees and shifting aggressively and not revving up right away to peak HP RPM. Heel weight is the only thing to get rid of belt slippage. Along with less primary spring." I'm just trying to understand what you consider aggressive? The parts in quote I have taken out of my Knapp notebook.