• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Hard time changing torsion springs

kojack

Pro
Joined
Dec 24, 2011
Messages
173
Location
Fredericton, NB
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2014 Yamaha Viper XTX MCX
LOCATION
Hanwell
Bought a 09 MTX phazer for the wife and found the rear torsion springs kinda soft. I upgraded them to 2500 .All went smooth beside removing the bracket that attached to the tunnel. The left side came off easily, the right side well it needed a lot and lots of poundage to finally come off. Changed the springs and was adding Hygear torsion springs spacers only to find out they sent me a nytro xtx kit instead of phazer mtx. The left bracket went on smoothly but the right side was a huge pain in the you know where. took me about 1 min. to install the left side and the right side took me about 2 hrs with the help of the wife plus prying bar etc. I noticed the left bracket is more upward degree wise and the right one was more flat or level. the bracket are in line with the little dot that on the torsion springs shaft. Is it supposed to be not the same on both side???? Hygear are sending me the right spacers but the left side was so hard to put back together i dont want to go through all that hassle again. What im i doing wrong???? My nytro took me about 30 min to complete both side.

right side
IMG_1309_zpsf5d7fc9b.jpg


left side
IMG_1308_zps0359d5cc.jpg
 

kojack said:
Bought a 09 MTX phazer for the wife and found the rear torsion springs kinda soft. I upgraded them to 2500 .All went smooth beside removing the bracket that attached to the tunnel. The left side came off easily, the right side well it needed a lot and lots of poundage to finally come off. Changed the springs and was adding Hygear torsion springs spacers only to find out they sent me a nytro xtx kit instead of phazer mtx. The left bracket went on smoothly but the right side was a huge pain in the you know where. took me about 1 min. to install the left side and the right side took me about 2 hrs with the help of the wife plus prying bar etc. I noticed the left bracket is more upward degree wise and the right one was more flat or level. the bracket are in line with the little dot that on the torsion springs shaft. Is it supposed to be not the same on both side???? Hygear are sending me the right spacers but the left side was so hard to put back together i dont want to go through all that hassle again. What im i doing wrong???? My nytro took me about 30 min to complete both side.

They should be the same...

Got any pics?
 
pics added. Yeah I found it very weird that both side were not the same. Checked a phazer at the stealership and they looked the same both side and the new 2013 has dot to aligned the bracket also.
 
Somebody has had that suspension apart. There should be a dot on the end of the shaft that you line up with the dot on the aluminum arms. I just when through this drill installing HyGear torsion spring spacers on my RTX. Somebody painted everthing black on your sled which I am sure is making it hard to see the dot on the shaft. I had a hard time seeing the dot on the shaft on my sled that was factory. You might have to remove some of the black paint to find the dot. The arms on both sides should be set the same.

I also noticed that your spring blocks are set on the softest of the three settings. So once you get the arms set to the same postion, you should try changing the spring block setting. G.B.
 
I took it apart to replace the springs to 2500 instead of 1700. The mark or dot is easy to see, I painted the tunnel black myself after the install. Both dots are lined up with the bracket. I put the block on soft as its my wife sled and she weighs 110 lbs. dots are lined up but one bracket points higher than the other, that's the part I don't get. Both dots both bracket.
 
kojack said:
dots are lined up but one bracket points higher than the other, that's the part I don't get. Both dots both bracket.

Yes, that makes no sense. The arms need to be indexed at the same position on the shaft. Otherwise the upper shaft is not parallel to the track and would cause the rear arm to twist and not articulate as it should I would think. You can see in your pictures that the shaft is lower on the left side than the right to the tunnel. I have not played with a Mountain Phazer but the angle of the right side arm looks similar to my RTX. So if I had to guess the issue is then with the dot placement on the left side. If it was me, I would try and line up the left arm so it matches location with the right. You might link this thread on the Phazer Mountain section and hopefully somebody else will have some ideas. G.B.
 
If dots are lined up only explanation would be the shaft is twisted or they were mismarked at factory.
 
The sled is mint and only 1700 km. I would be shocked to see that the axle is twisted. Well have to have a chat with the stealership if the have a clue. Most unlikely
 
It should look just like this.Whichever side looks like this is correct dot placement.Make the other side match using a angle finder or even a couple pieces of paper taped together to match the angle of the correct one.One notch off will be very evident.
 

Attachments

  • t_yamaha-phazer-mtx-suspension_177.jpg
    t_yamaha-phazer-mtx-suspension_177.jpg
    18.3 KB · Views: 251
this is what the left side look like and that was the one who was really easy to bolt on. The b..h one is the right one and its the one almost level. Ill do the level/angle thing to fix the right side. Txs for the pic. Helps a lot. One side had a punch mark and the dot. Both looked the same so after real close inspection the side that looked right was the wrong one. Re-installed with both dead on the dot and went in like butter on each side. Txs again. Took me about 30 min. alone to remove everything again, install hygear spacers and everything sits levelled. Now the suspension doenst kick back up so most likely its the shock that would need replacing/upgrading most likely.
 
There is a normal amount of sag with the rear suspension, so it may not be your shocks.
 
if you have softer springs it might be it is frozen down or stuck what happens if you lift the back? Are they the same then? And the last time I had my skid apart I put the rear shock in up side down and the body of the shock hit the arm and prevented the skid from opening up all the way just check for that.
my shock is totally blown out in the back and it just makes it super bouncy like after you hit a bump it flings ya into the are and the seat comes up and meets your #*$&@ on the way down it does not sag at all.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think he's figured out that the reason for the difficulty with the rear mounts was due asymmetrical torsion settings. Sounds like that's been corrected and the skid now mounts up without any problems. What I am referring to, and what I think kojack is talking about, is the tendency of the tunnel to sag a little even when the skid is unsprung. Many here have commented on how you can grab the rear bumper and unweight the suspension, only to see it sag when you let go ... That it what I am talking about and I don't believe that it necessarily means your shocks are bad.
 
kojack said:
this is what the left side look like and that was the one who was really easy to bolt on. The b..h one is the right one and its the one almost level. Ill do the level/angle thing to fix the right side. Txs for the pic. Helps a lot. One side had a punch mark and the dot. Both looked the same so after real close inspection the side that looked right was the wrong one. Re-installed with both dead on the dot and went in like butter on each side. Txs again. Took me about 30 min. alone to remove everything again, install hygear spacers and everything sits levelled. Now the suspension doenst kick back up so most likely its the shock that would need replacing/upgrading most likely.

Glad you figured it out!

G.B.
 
OVR4D said:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think he's figured out that the reason for the difficulty with the rear mounts was due asymmetrical torsion settings. Sounds like that's been corrected and the skid now mounts up without any problems. What I am referring to, and what I think kojack is talking about, is the tendency of the tunnel to sag a little even when the skid is unsprung. Many here have commented on how you can grab the rear bumper and unweight the suspension, only to see it sag when you let go ... That it what I am talking about and I don't believe that it necessarily means your shocks are bad.

You are correct.Most of that sag is just from stiction in the suspension itself.
 


Back
Top