hard to steer what to do

[FAMILYMAN]

Buy her a different sled or get her in the gym...JMO.

Its an on going battle getting the weight off the front of an apex. Good luck!

 

[CANAM 4 Stroker]

Put a 9 inch level on the A arm. Loosen the front suspension spring collar until the A arms are flat to the ground on each side. Use the clickers to stiffen the stock

Your springs won't rattle as you think they might when you catch a bit of air. You can dial then down from there depending on conditions. Having the same issues, this was by far the biggest improvement for me.

Keep rear suspension tranfer rod, at half to full.

 

[apltx08]

Check the BUSHING behind the chaincase on the steering horizontal shaft going to the front linkage, it runs dry of grease and gets real tight and sometimes SQUEAKY and makes your steering hard to turn, I zerted mine and give a shot a grease once a year...

 

[ecopter]

Loosening the front springs puts more weight on the front skis. Since the front skis are in contact with the ground, imagine when the springs are tightened........it's like forcing (or pushing) the front of the sled towards the rear. When you loosen the spring preload, you're basically letting the whole weight of the front end droop down onto the skis, and none of it is being pushed towards the back end.

jf

 

[Riceburner]

Loosening the front springs puts more weight on the front skis. Since the front skis are in contact with the ground, imagine when the springs are tightened........it's like forcing (or pushing) the front of the sled towards the rear. When you loosen the spring preload, you're basically letting the whole weight of the front end droop down onto the skis, and none of it is being pushed towards the back end.

jf

I respectfully disagree. Not what I have seen.

Perhaps with no rider but not with someone sitting on the sled. Depends on where the fulcrum point is. IMHO of course.

 

[RX ROB]

Buy a 2011 Apex.

 

[kinger]

Not sure any of the posts told you to lubricate the steering column bushings they are plastic and likely dry. They do not need grease by factory specs but my gosh when I did mine it was like adding power steering.

Or do the OFT racing alumium bushings with oillites, they are impregnated with oil and help steering effort and reduce some of the slop.

Also get some ski savers, they are $10 and really help push the carbide into the snow and keep the ski up a little bit and not dragging on the snow.

Mine steers very easy now.

 

[sgilbert]

Not sure any of the posts told you to lubricate the steering column bushings they are plastic and likely dry. They do not need grease by factory specs but my gosh when I did mine it was like adding power steering.

Or do the OFT racing alumium bushings with oillites, they are impregnated with oil and help steering effort and reduce some of the slop.

Also get some ski savers, they are $10 and really help push the carbide into the snow and keep the ski up a little bit and not dragging on the snow.

Mine steers very easy now.

I agree with this because I added fitting to every moving part. and also would tell you to get pilots and quit screwing around. mine is cranked up and can be ridden one hand. my olady runs it now and in the right mood will tuck your flap

 

[KevinS]

Loosening the front springs puts more weight on the front skis. Since the front skis are in contact with the ground, imagine when the springs are tightened........it's like forcing (or pushing) the front of the sled towards the rear. When you loosen the spring preload, you're basically letting the whole weight of the front end droop down onto the skis, and none of it is being pushed towards the back end.

jf

It is the opposite. Tightening the front springs puts more ski pressure on the ground making steering harder.

When you force the front of the sled towards the rear you are pushing against the skis increasing the ski pressure.

 

[craigjschr]

what piolets do you have and what do you mean crank it up what are you running ony your skis for carbides and do you use the ski saver.

 

[sgilbert]

what piolets do you have and what do you mean crank it up what are you running ony your skis for carbides and do you use the ski saver.

I actually have snostuff tcs skis, which are like pilots, but with a flatter keel. was able to crank up ski pressure as opossed to stock skis that required me to run springs so loose that they had inch of slack when in air, in order to ease the steering
on the tcs skis I have, I am running 4" carbide inside and round bar outside. only bought them because I am dealer for automatic and they were cheap. I'm sure pilots would do the same and turn better even. I have simmons on my xtx, but would think they are little too aggressive for my apex (sit back cruiser).
I can tell you that when I bought my apex it had stockers and fair amount of spring /ski pressure. I took it out in the field at 70 or so and the skis were so violent I thought I was going to wreck. letting front way down helped, but then wouldn't turn.
I believe that some aggressive riders may be better off with sing keel skis, but for average joe looking for comfort, positive pilots are the answer

 

[craigjschr]

so should i get the piolt 5.7 what carbides should i get.

 

[sgilbert]

I dont think it matters that much, I think minimum of 4" inside and round bar out or 4" on both. they will be dull in 10min, so I see it more as long lasting than a turning aid, which is why use them on inside as it hits the road

 

[craigjschr]

ok so it might be better to get her 4 inch on both inside and out. a set of piolt 5.7 skis. a set of ski savers and to adjust the suspenshion anything elese i wll need. to make the skis work.

 

[sgilbert]

I would set rear torsions on med or high if your really big and keep increasing front spring pressure till its hard on arms then back down a touch