Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
I really wanted to post this on the "mountain side" because I have a RX-1M but it seems to have all but dried up for the summer.
So, has anyone experimented enough with gearing to determine if a change in gearing makes a huge difference on the RX-1 like it can on other sleds?
I was thinking of dropping one tooth on top or three teeth on the bottom sprocket to make the sled just a touch snappier, with better acceleration and perhaps the same top end. Yes, I know the clutches will react to the change and perhpas nulify any benefit. In my typical riding day 95% of the time I never even come close to scrubbing all the black marker from my primary clutch. It's a good 1" from the outer edge of the primary. Then again there are those days that it has thawed and frozen again and everyhting is FAST. On those days (if I can find a mountain airstrip) I seem to approach about 1/4"-3/8" from the outer ring. I see a rather optimistic 102 to 106 mph on the speedo with my 151" x 2" 2.25" finger track on those days. I believe unless the over drive modification has been done to your stock clutches that's about as close as you are going to get to the outer ring of the clutch. Right?
I seem to remember from last season (I think) that the RX-1 doesn't respond to gearing changes nearly as favorably as other sleds. Is this correct or is it a worthy thing to think about doing? Thanks. PB
So, has anyone experimented enough with gearing to determine if a change in gearing makes a huge difference on the RX-1 like it can on other sleds?
I was thinking of dropping one tooth on top or three teeth on the bottom sprocket to make the sled just a touch snappier, with better acceleration and perhaps the same top end. Yes, I know the clutches will react to the change and perhpas nulify any benefit. In my typical riding day 95% of the time I never even come close to scrubbing all the black marker from my primary clutch. It's a good 1" from the outer edge of the primary. Then again there are those days that it has thawed and frozen again and everyhting is FAST. On those days (if I can find a mountain airstrip) I seem to approach about 1/4"-3/8" from the outer ring. I see a rather optimistic 102 to 106 mph on the speedo with my 151" x 2" 2.25" finger track on those days. I believe unless the over drive modification has been done to your stock clutches that's about as close as you are going to get to the outer ring of the clutch. Right?
I seem to remember from last season (I think) that the RX-1 doesn't respond to gearing changes nearly as favorably as other sleds. Is this correct or is it a worthy thing to think about doing? Thanks. PB
IMO I preferred the 1 tooth drop, over the stock gearing, as I did notice a change, and I have no need for 100+ anyway. Best part is, I get to do it all over again this year, as I just can't leave it alone...
Fullback
Expert
I have a 136" stretched shorty. I went with the 23 tooth top gear when I did the change over, but went back to the 24 tooth as I gained about 4mph in 1500' and didn't notice any holeshot loss. The sled easily pulled it. IMHO 
I had problems with traction and weight transfer when I went down to a 23 top gear. Went back to the 24 and it pulled harder.
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
There you have it............. two RX-1 owners in a row saying that dropping a tooth isn't the greatest thing since sliced bread. Stay tuned to hear what other RX-1 owners report; stick around to hear the full story at 10:00. PB
kviper
VIP Member
I droper Mine one tooth on top and averaged 2 MPH brtter in 900 FT this is varified by mi tazzo perf computer on excelent consistant condition's. Other cond's may be different.
I changed the bottom tooth on my rx-1 from a 38 to a 40. This is similar to gearing down about 1 1/2 on top sprocket. The sled was noticeably slower in drag race testing. Geared back & got it back!
Buckeye
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I dropped to 23 and lost top end(about 3mph). I run a 25 with my turbo and would like to go to a 37 or 36 on the bottom, except I haven't found one yet for reverse.
kviper
VIP Member
Agressive clutching can also make for slower 60TF times due to breaking the track loose more violently but then you need to adress that situation rather than making the sled more sluggish so that it hookes up better, I prooved this with my CPR clutching The computer showed exactly where the differences were. You need to know exactly where your losses were frome the change in order to make a definate acessment. Hepefuly Jeff Frome Simon's CPR will respond, I think he recomend's droping 1 tooth on top also. Hope this help's.
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