tsiceman
Lifetime Member
I made some tunsten weights out of 5mm rod, from ebay. Cut them to length with diamond wheel and dremel.
Just had to have set screws on both sides to capture them in. To remove just remove set screw and rotate clutch to bottom and they would drop out.
1/4" = 2.7g
Just had to have set screws on both sides to capture them in. To remove just remove set screw and rotate clutch to bottom and they would drop out.
1/4" = 2.7g
KnappAttack
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I made some tunsten weights out of 5mm rod, from ebay. Cut them to length with diamond wheel and dremel.
Just had to have set screws on both sides to capture them in. To remove just remove set screw and rotate clutch to bottom and they would drop out.
1/4" = 2.7g
That's excellent information! Thanks for that.
snowbeast
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They work great now Mike,i relieved my DTYA-1,s by 3 grms,and now that I did that,i have added some back to them,but where I want them to be. Now I am at 73.7 from 71.5 ground down from 74.5 Dalton weight. Now my sled pulls 8900-9050 max rpm,viewed while driving WO and pressure at 17.5lbs seen on speedo,i have yet to do a recall for max rpm,i don't believe it gives us an accurate read,as it can spike on hard take off.Mike I am now back to stock 35 helix and Dalton old style blk/org secondary spring wrapped to 70 and my slippage has now stopped,and sled pulls hard,next move will be 41/35 Dalton helix and Dalton white/cat green spring at 6-3 next time at camp.Dale does not offer them anymore.
I was a a point I was going to make tungsten myself, and since going to the XS belt I'm looking at the next size down weights or grinding some off my DTYA-1's too. LOL!
yamamarc
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Awsome great idea thanksI made some tunsten weights out of 5mm rod, from ebay. Cut them to length with diamond wheel and dremel.
Just had to have set screws on both sides to capture them in. To remove just remove set screw and rotate clutch to bottom and they would drop out.
1/4" = 2.7g
baggs66
Expert
Hey snowbeast, i don't think you will need that stiff of secondary spring, I'm running the dalton black tan at 70 with the 41/35 and may drop it to 60 and try, i also ground dyta1 weights to 72 gr, went to yamaha ppp primary to get low engagement and get rid of the up and down shift from dalton springs when going slow, this works great, smooth but instant go when you hit it, my primary was 78 degrees on outside sheeve and sec was 130, thats why i may lower twist to see if temp comes down more, but very happy with this setup.They work great now Mike,i relieved my DTYA-1,s by 3 grms,and now that I did that,i have added some back to them,but where I want them to be. Now I am at 73.7 from 71.5 ground down from 74.5 Dalton weight. Now my sled pulls 8900-9050 max rpm,viewed while driving WO and pressure at 17.5lbs seen on speedo,i have yet to do a recall for max rpm,i don't believe it gives us an accurate read,as it can spike on hard take off.Mike I am now back to stock 35 helix and Dalton old style blk/org secondary spring wrapped to 70 and my slippage has now stopped,and sled pulls hard,next move will be 41/35 Dalton helix and Dalton white/cat green spring at 6-3 next time at camp.
snowbeast
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Hi braggs66,i have a few options for secondary springs,but if you have had good luck with the 41/35 Dalton helix w/Dalton blk/tan do you think his blk/org at 70 twist will hold the belt from slip on his 41/35? The one thing I did not like about his white/cat green spring was its overall length and wire dia. it did well but was always very warm. I have both Dalton blk/org springs,the one I now run,is his first gen,and I have his new one that requires another 10 degrees twist,which one do you feel will work best with this helix?Hey snowbeast, i don't think you will need that stiff of secondary spring, I'm running the dalton black tan at 70 with the 41/35 and may drop it to 60 and try, i also ground dyta1 weights to 72 gr, went to yamaha ppp primary to get low engagement and get rid of the up and down shift from dalton springs when going slow, this works great, smooth but instant go when you hit it, my primary was 78 degrees on outside sheeve and sec was 130, thats why i may lower twist to see if temp comes down more, but very happy with this setup.
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They work great now Mike,i relieved my DTYA-1,s by 3 grms,and now that I did that,i have added some back to them,but where I want them to be. Now I am at 73.7 from 71.5 ground down from 74.5 Dalton weight. Now my sled pulls 8900-9050 max rpm,viewed while driving WO and pressure at 17.5lbs seen on speedo,i have yet to do a recall for max rpm,i don't believe it gives us an accurate read,as it can spike on hard take off.Mike I am now back to stock 35 helix and Dalton old style blk/org secondary spring wrapped to 70 and my slippage has now stopped,and sled pulls hard,next move will be 41/35 Dalton helix and Dalton white/cat green spring at 6-3 next time at camp.
I got a 43/35 with dalton black lime @ 0-1. Working great so far, clean clutches and doesn't run hot. The dalton black orange never worked on my sled, blew belts and streaky secondary.
KnappAttack
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I got a 43/35 with dalton black lime @ 0-1. Working great so far, clean clutches and doesn't run hot. The dalton black orange never worked on my sled, blew belts and streaky secondary.
Same here when I was trying to run Yamaha belts, but now that I'm using the XS825 belt I'm back to the black/orange.
snowbeast
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Well if I am reading his numbers correctly,that black lime is 110/180 which is heavier than his white @98/165 same wire dia.do you guys think that 41/35 needs that much pressure,i may give Dale a call mon.and order his Black tan and give it a try.I got a 43/35 with dalton black lime @ 0-1. Working great so far, clean clutches and doesn't run hot. The dalton black orange never worked on my sled, blew belts and streaky secondary.
KnappAttack
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The charts mean nothing really.
You guys need to put a bathroom scale on the drill press and start measuring wraps and springs in the clutch all bolted together and see the pressures as the belt would see it on the machine. Many of them that show lighter, are actually heavier when you add in the wrap.
Only on a compression spring does a chart do any actual good.
The XS825 belt does not need a heavy torsion spring any longer. It hooks up on the sheaves without it, unlike the Yamaha belts.
I'm back to using the stock Yellow or the Dalton B/O and the stock 35 with the XS. Heavier Cat springs are no longer needed on the XS.
You guys need to put a bathroom scale on the drill press and start measuring wraps and springs in the clutch all bolted together and see the pressures as the belt would see it on the machine. Many of them that show lighter, are actually heavier when you add in the wrap.
Only on a compression spring does a chart do any actual good.
The XS825 belt does not need a heavy torsion spring any longer. It hooks up on the sheaves without it, unlike the Yamaha belts.
I'm back to using the stock Yellow or the Dalton B/O and the stock 35 with the XS. Heavier Cat springs are no longer needed on the XS.
Last edited:
snowdust
TY 4 Stroke Guru
@KnappAttack Did you end up grinding the DTAY-1's to get enough RPM on the B/O?
KnappAttack
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@KnappAttack Did you end up grinding the DTAY-1's to get enough RPM on the B/O?
No not yet.
I still have 1-2 grams in them using the B/O and 35 helix with winder secondary on the big tune using the RX-1 drive clutch I went back to. I'm going to stick with that drive clutch too. The Winder drive clutch is still showing bad primary roller life and I'm done with it.
I may grind a bit off of them to be able to have a bit more adjustment on them. Maybe get them down to 72 or 73 gram base weights.
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this thread is the problem with any set screw type weights....I had one of the very 1st sets of DTYA66 from Dale back in 07 I think...and immediately discovered you cannot place weight where you want it. There where no tungsten screws in those early days, but that still didn't help because weight 'placement' was linear (lack of better words).
If you wanted more weight, you put in a longer set screw...however, in a sense, you still only had the same weight at the tip (say you have 1/4" in there and put 1/2" in there) the 1/4" worth of the longer one is still in the same position!
I have also run DTYA2's in my turbo Apex...
These weights are hit and miss....some sleds they work great in as they don't need much tuning Edit added: the sleds they don't work in are ones that require more weight than the weight itself, but the next heavier base weight is too much....
The only way around this is with Heavy Hitters or Supertips...
If you wanted more weight, you put in a longer set screw...however, in a sense, you still only had the same weight at the tip (say you have 1/4" in there and put 1/2" in there) the 1/4" worth of the longer one is still in the same position!
I have also run DTYA2's in my turbo Apex...
These weights are hit and miss....some sleds they work great in as they don't need much tuning Edit added: the sleds they don't work in are ones that require more weight than the weight itself, but the next heavier base weight is too much....
The only way around this is with Heavy Hitters or Supertips...
KnappAttack
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Not true at all, you can put the weight in the tip or leave it in the heel or anywhere in between, I've done it every which way. Who wants to take the weights out all the time to swap out the weight? Not me. Dalton arms are awesome and can be tuned well as long as you are close on the base weight.
Winder_506
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2013 apex xtx with woodys power up kit clutch work and mbrp pipe
That’s what I did to get rpm back with xs. Took my DTya1 which were 74.6 gram on the scale empty to 70 gram each. Still run them empty and pull 8850 on max 17. What a difference in the power of the sled. So snappy and responsive. Love my set up nowDale does not offer them anymore.
I was a a point I was going to make tungsten myself, and since going to the XS belt I'm looking at the next size down weights or grinding some off my DTYA-1's too. LOL!
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