Helix angles

[Doc Harley]

That's where in the sledding world things change drastically. Taller gears are great on the road where ET is King or the typical street race is from a street light. Rip through the shift curve as fast as possible. That just doesn't equate to corner to corner trail riding through the woods or run by somebody on the trail or even on the lake when we shift out completely before hitting Max speed. We have to consider what speed we average and need to launch from. Add to that, backshift is King in the corners when we really don't want to brake, but more just rely on the downshift to plant the skis then punch the throttle at the apex. There is just too many variables when our driveline is treading on ice! That's why clutching is so rewarding. When YOU find exactly what you want it's the best feeling. Then you realize you can do better! Nothing better than a challenge and with all the variables you most likely will never get the perfect set up for your riding conditions unless you are a strictly top speed 1320 ft racer. For me, I have my big tune sled dialed in for what I need. Really excited to work with the 24" Winder with smaller tunes to see if I can give the big tune sled a ride for it's money!

I'm setting it up for amateur lake drags on snow. Conditions? Distance? These change by the hour. In a perfect world it would be 1,000ft++ on hard pack.
I like to run my mouth (in a friendly cool way) when I stop for a pop. And like to back it up. It's always in good fun.

 

[Doc Harley]

So, after talking to other members, it would seam the toughest thing to overcome when going to a non consistent angle is belt grip.
I'm assuming say a 45/35 will start with too much grip, and as the helix reaches it's finish angle, you're left with not enough grip.

 

[KnappAttack]

You're thinking is backwards. 45 will be less belt grip. 35 is more belt grip. The reason you need lesser finish helix angle is to pinch the belt tighter as there is less belt contact on the sheaves in high gear with the belt at the bottom of the secondary.

The trick is to only pinch it as tight as you need to keep a grip, any more pinch than needed makes heat too.

So, after talking to other members, it would seam the toughest thing to overcome when going to a non consistent angle is belt grip.
I'm assuming say a 45/35 will start with too much grip, and as the helix reaches it's finish angle, you're left with not enough grip.

 

[Doc Harley]

You're thinking is backwards. 45 will be less belt grip. 35 is more belt grip. The reason you need lesser finish helix angle is to pinch the belt tighter as there is less belt contact on the sheaves in high gear with the belt at the bottom of the secondary.

The trick is to only pinch it as tight as you need to keep a grip, any more pinch than needed makes heat too.

Ok, thank you for explaining that, KnappAttack. Ill get it right sooner or later.

 

[max rolph]

...think of a wooden wedge door stop ,the steeper the angel the less wedge force you would have under a door say.... the shallower the angle and the more you jam that wood wedge under a door the tighter it gets. soo in a helix, the shallower angle jams on the belt more and also wraps the spring tighter soo as the belt goes to the lower area of secondary and there is less contact surface, you need more belt squeeze, while the primary now has a larger gripping area.

 

[Doc Harley]

...think of a wooden wedge door stop ,the steeper the angel the less wedge force you would have under a door say.... the shallower the angle and the more you jam that wood wedge under a door the tighter it gets. soo in a helix, the shallower angle jams on the belt more and also wraps the spring tighter soo as the belt goes to the lower area of secondary and there is less contact surface, you need more belt squeeze, while the primary now has a larger gripping area.

Max, a fellow member and I did some dialogue. He explained everything flawlessly, in a DM. About going back to stock sec. Spring, etc. I just missed the part of the of more angle, less grip. I got that reversed.
It took Away 90% of the cloud I was facing. Very happy to say, I'll probably get some secondary slippage at first, but with some spring wind, it can be corrected.
Just enough is just right!

 

[1nc 2000]

This is bottomed out at full shift. All my helixes are like this. Trail riding....
Running 22-41 gears.
Time to machine some metal off or gear up more?

 

[sideshowBob]

Looks like you are running some high mph conditions.
You could try some washer/spacers under the helix to allow more overdrive but I personally would gear the sled up some more so you are not fully shifting the clutches out on a regular basis.
A lot of us are running so much power that when we hit rail beds, lakes ect we can easily run out of gear.

 

[1nc 2000]

Looks like you are running some high mph conditions.
You could try some washer/spacers under the helix to allow more overdrive but I personally would gear the sled up some more so you are not fully shifting the clutches out on a regular basis.
A lot of us are running so much power that when we hit rail beds, lakes ect we can easily run out of gear.

Ran washers under helix so stock spring wouldn't coil bind.
Also ran them with the orange spring from thunder clutching to change spring pressure with 3-3 wrap. Would run some good top end.
Without washers helix will bottom out then belt would start to slip and go pop of i stayed in it full throttle.
Time to cut my helix's tomorrow.

 

[1nc 2000]

Looks like you are running some high mph conditions.
You could try some washer/spacers under the helix to allow more overdrive but I personally would gear the sled up some more so you are not fully shifting the clutches out on a regular basis.
A lot of us are running so much power that when we hit rail beds, lakes ect we can easily run out of gear.

With that steep helix it leaves so hard plus my primary setup, where does the trade off fall with taller gearing and arm pulling holeshots?
More gear and shallower helix?