Helix options

[helix]

We sell helix ...I can tell you that there is still, after all this time no "most common" because of all the variations of gearing and boost levels and types of tunes and primary clutch set ups used.

There are getting to be 5 or 6 fairly common helixes...but many of those even are very opposite of each other, and the people who are the proponents of each are very strong willed about their own favorite and the others are all "wrong and out of their mind for even talking so crazy.".... thats how we hear it every day.

I do believe that from so many good clutch tuning guys that there is good results from many different recipes, and that more than one opinion can be correct for the applications here.

For your own situation since it is new it may take a bit of experimenting but I would be that as the guys at Thunder will be able to give you a very good recommended starting point for your system. They are probably testing it more now that there is snow in many places, and even more results from them as the season goes for different tunes when using the billet primary set up they have

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Sounds interesting. Especially that 41 at the beginning. Sounds like you have tried many helix. How is the back shift with the 41/35? You notice any more engine breaking with the different helix you have run? I find the secondary spring to be a BIG factor for engine breaking. We run different primary weights. So not apples to apples. But I’m curious on your thoughts of engine breaking? I actually hear mine breaking with different settings on that secondary spring. The helix and spring in the secondary seem to really influence the engine breaking. It’s almost as if to me that closing rate of the secondary can really effect engine breaking?

Engine braking can be added/removed typically best with secondary pressure. However the 998 comes with EBRS, which I personally hate. It Electronically reduces engine braking. So its really hard to dial in the amount of engine braking I like for my tight trails, hence the massive amts of brake dust at my left footwell. Grrr.

The lighter backpressures work fine on big trails, cool clutches, But for corner to corner the twist needs to be alot higher if you want max EB/backshift for that next straight. I ran 3/3 in Qc fine, its all hi speed bigtrails, but if I stopped without letting it roll down slowly, the belt would never come back to top.

It really comes down to how you ride....and where.

Dan

 

[ROCKERDAN]

We sell helix ...I can tell you that there is still, after all this time no "most common" because of all the variations of gearing and boost levels and types of tunes and primary clutch set ups used.

There are getting to be 5 or 6 fairly common helixes...but many of those even are very opposite of each other, and the people who are the proponents of each are very strong willed about their own favorite and the others are all "wrong and out of their mind for even talking so crazy.".... thats how we hear it every day.

I do believe that from so many good clutch tuning guys that there is good results from many different recipes, and that more than one opinion can be correct for the applications here.

For your own situation since it is new it may take a bit of experimenting but I would be that as the guys at Thunder will be able to give you a very good recommended starting point for your system. They are probably testing it more now that there is snow in many places, and even more results from them as the season goes for different tunes when using the billet primary set up they have

Agree Dale.....I believe whenever you have a sled with GOBS of power, the clutching becomes(easier) something that means less then say a 2s engine where it needs to be dead nuts on. With this much HP on tap, most any setup will be fast as hell.

I find it comes down to corner to corner riding(hard/fast) in which one setup is heads and tails better then another. Other types of big trail/lake or just touring type riding a tuned winder seems to be fine with many combos.

Dan