AaronBND
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Guys....I got a custom clutch set-up from Hartman Inc. a couple days ago and the dealer told me it would be over two weeks to get to it because there mechanic is on vacation!! The place is an absolute joke. I would love to never walk in the door there again! I am very mechanically inclined and usually always do all my own maintenance, but have never messed with a centrifugal clutch. Should I just tear into this thing or what? I don't have a puller for the primary and I don't know what they are talking about when they talk about the 60, 70 degree twist thing and the 3-3 and 6-1. Can I use an impact to remove? Second, can someone explain to me how to do it properly. I know once I do it, it will be easy, but we have a big ride this weekend and I don't want to screw anything up. Rivets are already installed in weights. I just need to replace weights, both springs and the helix. Thanks guys!
Aaron
Aaron
grader
TY 4 Stroke Master
remove side panel. remove 6 10mm bolts from primary cover, remove primary spring. change weights, being carefull to not loose washers/spacers from each side of weight. these bolts are 8mm. the sleeve the weight pivots on is held in place by 2 small metric allen screws, just loosen them, dont have to remove. when weights are changed, make sure bolts and allen screws are tight. install spring and primary cover and torque the bolts to 10lbs. remove secondary bolt(14mm) being carefull not to loose spacers or sleeve. remove clutch and place on bench. remove 3 12mm bolts, while holding helix with one hand, as it has some spring pressure on it. where the spring sits on the clutch are 3 holes marked 1, 2, and 3. the other end of spring fits into the helix. it has 4 holes marked 0 3, 6, and9. the twist is given in degrees eg. 70 would be 6 on helix and 1 on clutch. a second set of hands helps to reinstall the helix on to the studs if you havent done it before.replace clutch, washers, and bolt and torque to abt. 45lbs.


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4Fighter
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If you don't have to change the spring you can make a C shaped clamp with about a 2" gap, out of 1/8" - 3/16" steel. Then use a pry bar to open the sheaves, then install the clamp. Use a #2 phillips as a drift to guide washers and weights and pins, very easy.
AaronBND
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Thanks guys! I totally appreciate the great description Grader. That will be very helpful! Doesn't sound to bad at all. What is the best way to get clutch alignment putting the secondary back on? Just eyeball it and go? Thanks again to all of you.
Aaron
Aaron
Bossrx1
Pro
Do you think that the clutches are out of allinement?
If they are you need an allinment tool. Just changing the secondary spring will not make them out of allinement.

If they are you need an allinment tool. Just changing the secondary spring will not make them out of allinement.

grader
TY 4 Stroke Master
as for clutch alignment, offset and center to center, invest the money in the proper tools. i use maximum performance guages but there are lots of good ones out there. you can probably get some from one of this sites sponsers. used properly, they will last a lifetime, and the easiest performance gain is properly aligned clutches. one more thing i forgot to mention earlier regarding the primary clutch, when you remove the cover you will see an 'x' marked in it, line this mark up with the 'x' on the clutch when you put it back together. these marks line up so clutch retains factory balance.
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