help with replacing single shot inside upper idler wheels.

[CaptCaper]

First time changing hyfax on my single shot with hygear coil over went fine. But I noticed the inside upper right side idler wheel had the c clip out and hanging and the bearing was coming out of the wheel. Good thing I caught it at home.
I loosened the bolt outside that holds the wheel and cross piece loose and out but he wheel didn't come off. Too bad. I know there is tension and I didn't want to tear it all apart figureing out he easiest way to get the wheel off and put back out with out making a mess.
I could do this with my old machines like attak,vectors but this single shot is new and I don't have that new a repair manual.

 

[provfisherman]

This likely something you might not want to hear, but I found it much easier to just remove the whole skid to work on those top wheels then trying to do it in frame. Besides once out it will be easy to check all the other wheels and other items in there. And if memory serves me, those top wheels are pressed onto their mounts and getting them off will be much easier with the skid out.

 

[CaptCaper]

This likely something you might not want to hear, but I found it much easier to just remove the whole skid to work on those top wheels then trying to do it in frame. Besides once out it will be easy to check all the other wheels and other items in there. And if memory serves me, those top wheels are pressed onto their mounts and getting them off will be much easier with the skid out.

I've done the mono shock ones. Was a pia for me to do alone. Is this single shot easier? also which way do you recomend to take it down and put it back. The mono sock had tricks to doing it. I'm sure this has them too I bet.

 

[TrueBlue]

I've done the mono shock ones. Was a pia for me to do alone. Is this single shot easier? also which way do you recomend to take it down and put it back. The mono sock had tricks to doing it. I'm sure this has them too I bet.

I have done this on my 2018 Vector. Put some blocks under ski's to raise the front end & raise the rear of the sled off the ground.Take some air out of the shock,( but leave at least 125lbs in there) loosen up the adjusting bolts in the rear of the skid that adjusts the track as much as possible. Remove the front 2 suspension bolts (use a floor jack under the track in that area to relieve some pressure on the bolts. Then put the jack under the track in the rear to take a little pressure off the rear 2 suspension bolts. NOTE, if you have a extra set of sliders laying around slide them between the bottom of the track & the rails, it makes it a lot easier to slide out the suspension. When putting suspension back in do the front bolts first, again use the floor jack

 

[74Nitro]

Use an air hammer with straight round bit. Put a bolt with a cupped head so that the bit will stay on the head.
The shaft must be lowered from the tunnel enough so that the wheel clears.
Pull the idler wheel firmly towards you while air hammering the bolt threaded into shaft. Be sure to thread in at least a 3/4 inch or more.

 

[CaptCaper]

Use an air hammer with straight round bit. Put a bolt with a cupped head so that the bit will stay on the head.
The shaft must be lowered from the tunnel enough so that the wheel clears.
Pull the idler wheel firmly towards you while air hammering the bolt threaded into shaft. Be sure to thread in at least a 3/4 inch or more.

these idlers are pressed onto that shaft? So your advice is to use the air hammer to force them off? Vague to me still but if I live long enough I may get the gist.
I did order a new shaft ,bushings, idler wheels. One way or another I might get them off? cut them and bang away? who knows yet.
I must of hit a bump hard to pop the c clip off that idler. Idler came over the bushing to the chassis mount plate. Bearing stayed on the shaft I believe.

 

[CaptCaper]

I have done this on my 2018 Vector. Put some blocks under ski's to raise the front end & raise the rear of the sled off the ground.Take some air out of the shock,( but leave at least 125lbs in there) loosen up the adjusting bolts in the rear of the skid that adjusts the track as much as possible. Remove the front 2 suspension bolts (use a floor jack under the track in that area to relieve some pressure on the bolts. Then put the jack under the track in the rear to take a little pressure off the rear 2 suspension bolts. NOTE, if you have a extra set of sliders laying around slide them between the bottom of the track & the rails, it makes it a lot easier to slide out the suspension. When putting suspension back in do the front bolts first, again use the floor jack

Thanks. I have the Hygear coil over installed now since the came out with it. I installed it and don't remember any effort to do it with the skid installed so maybe it won't effect the process being I can't let air out of a shock. Maybe if I disconnect the shock again somehow. It's been years and I dunno maybe my brain is toasting at 76 yrs old cause I can't remember much on that install.
Like I said too bad a member here was able to come and help me I'd pay them to travel and work in the shop to get this done.

 

[74Nitro]

these idlers are pressed onto that shaft? So your advice is to use the air hammer to force them off? Vague to me still but if I live long enough I may get the gist.
I did order a new shaft ,bushings, idler wheels. One way or another I might get them off? cut them and bang away? who knows yet.
I must of hit a bump hard to pop the c clip off that idler. Idler came over the bushing to the chassis mount plate. Bearing stayed on the shaft I believe.

The air hammer never touches any part of the wheel. It works, I've done it dozens of times.

 

[CaptCaper]

The air hammer never touches any part of the wheel. It works, I've done it dozens of times.

I'm not getting what you mean. Wish there was a video. Sorry.

 

[RobX-1]

Here's what he means. Just picture that cupped head bolt (ie. just not the OEM bolt) threaded 3/4 of the way into the shaft with the idler wheel on it and them put the air hammer against the head of the bolt (similarly to what this guy is doing to the other end of a bolt but hopefully you get the idea) and by having the air hammer pound the bolt that's threaded into the shaft as you pull the idler wheel towards you, it will cause the wheel to come off:

 

[CaptCaper]

Here's what he means. Just picture that cupped head bolt (ie. just not the OEM bolt) threaded 3/4 of the way into the shaft with the idler wheel on it and them put the air hammer against the head of the bolt (similarly to what this guy is doing to the other end of a bolt but hopefully you get the idea) and by having the air hammer pound the bolt that's threaded into the shaft as you pull the idler wheel towards you, it will cause the wheel to come off:

View attachment 178118

Got it. So this method is for getting the idler wheels off the shaft being they are pressed. The shaft goes straight thru I see in this picture attached.

 

[Teamblue4]

drop the rear suspension, screw the bolt back in the shaft and with a dead blow hammer pound on the bolt too move the shaft.

 

[CaptCaper]

Thanks for the replies. I'm stalling on taking the skid out until end of season and going thru the whole skid. Maybe adding on 4th wheel kit, ss relay rods from bop's, front wheel kit as well.

My wife and I ride alone during the week and many times seen no one for 60 miles or more and have been stuck (long storys) and used all the gear I carry and as she does to get us out of about any situation alone. Putting alot of extra weight I believe on the skid.

I am guessing I hit a good bump and it strained the upper idler wheel and popped the clip? Is there any idlers wheels that are better built ? maybe help stop the next time. I'm a big guy 250lbs naked and carry alot of other things. Portable 3000 lb Warn winch on the back. Saddle bags with Bungee cord,straps,etc. Tank bag with maps,etc and in the front nose a fold up shovel an 20 ft 1/2 rope.

I had the upgraded shock when new but found it couldn't handle me. Hygear did one that was better but still I wonder when I hit those bumps. I don't ditch bang but you can't advoic them 100%.

Never had track or wheel issues with the mono shock with big boy spring.

 

[CaptCaper]

drop the rear suspension, screw the bolt back in the shaft and with a dead blow hammer pound on the bolt too move the shaft.

Thanks. I'll post back on when it's all done. I'm stalling until the end of the season. I put the clip back on from under/inside. Was a pia. Been riding about 235 miles so far no problem but will soon tear it out. Must of hit a large bump to pop the c clip out of that wheel. See post above on all the weight I carry.