High altitude setup for the clutch

[snowATTAKer]

I have a trip planned to Wyoming in January and need to find out what I have to change on my Attak clutch without going over board. just a higher rpm before engagement. All I did on my SRX was change a spring.
Thanks

 

[WFO]

Good question. I, too, have a trip to Wyoming planned this year. Changing the clutch weights is a pretty easy job. Nice thing about EFI is no carb work needed for different elevations. Changing the jets etc. on an RX1 is a royal PITA.

 

[SRXSRULE]

Yamaha has a reccomended set-up for high altitude, just ask your dealer or PM Port Parts. You can get by with doing almost Nothing on a 4-stroke but it does help if you set it up right. The most important thing is making the primary weights lighter. ===SRXSRULE===

 

[Shaf]

Stop at the Yamaha dealer in Cheyenne he will dial you in it ,took him 30 minutes to change over my viper when i stopped in there he did not charge a dime and he did the carbs and clutch and on the way home he put it back to flatland operation for no charge ,,GREAT PEOPLE

BTW i just got back from out there riding my Apex and you would be throwing good money away touching it,unless you got to do a race or something.

 

[Blueice]

Yamaha has a reccomended set-up for high altitude, just ask your dealer or PM Port Parts. You can get by with doing almost Nothing on a 4-stroke but it does help if you set it up right. The most important thing is making the primary weights lighter. ===SRXSRULE===

Lightened the clutch wieghts as you recommended. It did help. But one thing that I did notice is that the sled would load up in the deep snow. RPM's would not stay up. Some one mentioned that the secondary was not shifting down and that the spring tension on the secondary should be loosened. Does this sound right? How does one change the spring tension on the secondary?

 

[SRXSRULE]

If your not holding RPM's you need to TIGHTEN the secondary. You do this by taking the secondary off, removing the 3 nuts that hold the helix on and changing the location of the spring ends. Stock will be in the 6-1 position and you want to go to something like 6-3, or 9-1. (6-3 = 10 9-1 =11, the higher the number the more back shift and the better it will hold the rpm). Now when you put it back together you hold the secondary sheaves and then rotate the helix clockwise to lign up the holes/studs. Have fun ===SRXSRULE===

 

[Blueice]

If your not holding RPM's you need to TIGHTEN the secondary. You do this by taking the secondary off, removing the 3 nuts that hold the helix on and changing the location of the spring ends. Stock will be in the 6-1 position and you want to go to something like 6-3, or 9-1. (6-3 = 10 9-1 =11, the higher the number the more back shift and the better it will hold the rpm). Now when you put it back together you hold the secondary sheaves and then rotate the helix clockwise to lign up the holes/studs. Have fun ===SRXSRULE===

Thank you for the info. Do you need a spring tool for this job?

 

[toomscw]

I just took a trip to the hills and we rode a little into Wyoming. I didn't change anything and we played in the powder a little and only once did I feel like it was a little sluggish.

 

[Blueice]

I just took a trip to the hills and we rode a little into Wyoming. I didn't change anything and we played in the powder a little and only once did I feel like it was a little sluggish.

Mine bogged to the point where it would start cutting out.

Sled was pinned until I could not hold the RPM's up. Shortly thereafter I would be stuck because I lost momentum.