Have some questions. I am running aproxametly 170HP on my 08 Nytro. I have 144 studs of 1.450 on my track (used to have 1.38). I have a clutch kit from Hauk in there right now. I have gone out twice after getting her somewhat dialed in. Once going 105mph with plenty of throttle left for more. The next time We went out we were in an area with a ton of twist, and turns, and only enough straight to get her to 90mph or so. On that second trip; after about 6 hours of hard corner to corner riding the sled was reving on it's own in the corners between 4500, and 5200rpm's. I am sure the belt was getting gummed, and very hot. So the next trip out I replaced the belt. This trip is also when I swtiched to the taller studs. When I got out on the ice she didn't have it all there. I could feel it off the line from the last few trips. She would also only hit 97mph at 9600rpm. I called the dealer that put it together. He thinks between the added traction, something is off in the clutch. Which is making the sled hit the rev limiter; and making the sled not hit it's full potential. That sucked for the day that I was finally going to take it on a lake, and see what she could really do. Any ideas? Does it sound about right; what the dealer said? My buddy is saying to mark the clutch's with a marker, and race her to 1000', and see where she runs out to. Then call the dealer before I bring it back. This way they hva something more to go off of. He thinks the angle or spring could be off, because of th enew traction. Any ideas guys? New to this clutching set up, and how to change it when I change other things on the sled that effect it.
I am looking for her to be quick in the corner to corner action, but also to get some top end on the ice like an Apex (if not more). I assume, there will have to be some gearing changes to accomplish the best of both worlds. If even possible? Thanks for the help guys
I am looking for her to be quick in the corner to corner action, but also to get some top end on the ice like an Apex (if not more). I assume, there will have to be some gearing changes to accomplish the best of both worlds. If even possible? Thanks for the help guys
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SledFreak
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Studs would not cause it to be off by that much... If anything it would increase your top RPM by maybe 200RPM on hard ground. Anything in sifter conditions, it should be the same as it was before. Just sounds like your clutching is not right. What did you do to get 170hp?
SledFreak said:Studs would not cause it to be off by that much... If anything it would increase your top RPM by maybe 200RPM on hard ground. Anything in sifter conditions, it should be the same as it was before. Just sounds like your clutching is not right. What did you do to get 170hp?
I did the following:
Had Hauk add a stroker engine
K&N filters
Exhaust headers, and silencer
Fuel programmer....ETC
Here is the link to all of the changes. Way to many goofy things I did to list again. Thanks for The help, and ideas
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?p=547272#547272
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
If you are only seeing 9600 RPMs you are probably not hitting the rev limiter.
Also, You might be estimating your HP a little on the high side. But, ... When you changed to the filters, what did you do the adjust your fuel?
Running on its own at 4500 - 5000 RPM with no throttle press may be a symptom of the engine running lean.
If I recall correctly, we had a post like this before and the user ended up taking the filters back off and the problem cleared up. There are several sensors on these systems. You can't make a air change w/o compensating with a fuel change.
Lets see what the others "chime in" with.
Also, You might be estimating your HP a little on the high side. But, ... When you changed to the filters, what did you do the adjust your fuel?
Running on its own at 4500 - 5000 RPM with no throttle press may be a symptom of the engine running lean.
If I recall correctly, we had a post like this before and the user ended up taking the filters back off and the problem cleared up. There are several sensors on these systems. You can't make a air change w/o compensating with a fuel change.
Lets see what the others "chime in" with.
Got it all figured out. Took it back to Hauk for them to look it over. The first time I took it out after the engine work it was set up for the 169HP it was dynoed at. It ran great for a while then slowly changed. This time he said the HP may be gaining; as I broke it in for around 1000 miles. He tried adding more weight, and adjusting the spring. Then tested it on the track. He then took it to the lake with me, and adjusted it two more times. I will tell you, it is night and day. The thing pulls like a train now. I will get it dynoed again next time I go up. To see where she is at. Thanks for all the help guys, and thanks for the GREAT SERVICE Pat 
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