Hot running Attak

To test the water pump, run the sled. Each board should warm up at roughly the same.[/quote] this is not true the right running board will get warm a few mins before the left one will. same for my 07 as for my 2012.
 
just had the same issue in the U.P. this weekend , ran over 500 miles there and had the temp light come on 5 times snow conditions were beyond good and temps were very cold, i did have some build up in the tunnel so i cleared most of that out, also i was running a t speends of 70+ mph if i kept the sled under 75 mph the light would stay off...... total P.I.T.A running with a bunch or 2 stroke skidoos and im overheating???

ill check the coolant and look into the cooler.....

there were 7 apexs in our group and mine was the only one with a overheat issue???

2007 apex gt
 
I had the same problem last week. I drained coolant put new in and rear heat exchanger going to be installed.
 
I had the same problem last week. I drained coolant put new in and rear heat exchanger going to be installed.
 
phatkid said:
just had the same issue in the U.P. this weekend , ran over 500 miles there and had the temp light come on 5 times snow conditions were beyond good and temps were very cold, i did have some build up in the tunnel so i cleared most of that out, also i was running a t speends of 70+ mph if i kept the sled under 75 mph the light would stay off...... total P.I.T.A running with a bunch or 2 stroke skidoos and im overheating???

ill check the coolant and look into the cooler.....

there were 7 apexs in our group and mine was the only one with a overheat issue???

2007 apex gt

The '07 Apex was known to have been delivered with near 100% glycol coolant. Mine was delivered that way and it overheated easily. I diluted the mixture to 60/40, added Water Wetter, and added the rear heat exchanger. These things helped greatly but I will still overheat in low snow or hard pack / ice conditions. Ice scratchers will probably help by throwing snow / ice on the running board heat exchangers.
 
Drained coolant DARK GREEN. Drained by removing hose on radiator. Replace with 50/50 and some water wetter. Sorry for the dumb question here...

What do I remove to get to eh bleed tube on an Attak?

The seat, then the plastic piece?

Thanks
Jack
 
It's been 5 years since I took out the crossover tube and put in the rear exchanger, so my memory fails me but, does your crossover tube in front of the snow flap have a bleed screw? I don't think there is anything under the seat.
 
Bleeder is in the crossover tube under tail light on the attack as well.
 
I found the old crossover tube, looks like it was held up under tunnel extension by two rivets, and inbetween the two rivet brackets is a bleed screw on the tube facing up so you may have to use a light to look up in there and see it.
 
Got it I only really needed to remove the bolts from under the tunnel from inside of the plastic piece on one side and then I had access to it nothing else had to be removed
 
Had same issue with 07 Attak. The problem is an ice dam will form on the front heat exchanger and hang on to the stud protectors. Then the exchanger melts the snow off of itself and the dam acts like a wall so the exchanger gets no snow on it, or airflow either. I removed the protectors from the front exchanger and no more heat light. No dought the other things mentioned are contributing factors, but this is the fix. Obviously not applicable if you run studs.
 
Update on my sled. Since I changed the coolant, I have taken two weekend trips in less-than-perfect conditions including last weekend when most of the riding was frozen lake riding and have not seen the temperature light once. This included above freezing and single digit temps. So for now I am going to skip the rear heat exchanger and see how my sled performs without it.
 
i changed to a 50/50 mix and water wetter several years ago and havn't had temp lights come on except on the warmest low snow days and it's usually the group as a whole that overheats when it does happen (poo's and doo's)
 


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