JIM
Extreme
I about to tear into my apex and do this very thing. this is good info!! I Wondered, I dont have any head shims, I have pistons, So I am in need to do the cam timing since I didnt get and advance on the exhaust cam from the head spacers. I was reading up on dave/powderlites article about setting cam timing to 114. looks harder, than ya think. I was also wondering about the spacers to keep the exhaust from slipping. Pics would be awesome
Jim
Jim
mulot30th
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apex mountain crracing 174
apex blower 136 for asphalt racing
osp drag race sled (apex engine based)
No head shim, you should grind the intake cam gear to move the dot toward front of sled (slightly)
The Exhaust cam toward rear f sled (slightly).
Cam bolts shold be about halfway toward the next cam gear hole. (I hope this is explained correctly... not very good english here)
The Exhaust cam toward rear f sled (slightly).
Cam bolts shold be about halfway toward the next cam gear hole. (I hope this is explained correctly... not very good english here)
HURRICANE
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I was replying to a PM and I thought that it may help other guys with setup.
L,I remember when I had to learn this.I had a hard time with it but I stuck at it and with the help from Dave at Powderlites I got it.I'd be happy to help you through it, although its likely easier over the phone.To start,rather then slot the gears,you can buy slotted gears and they are not alot of money.If you prefer to slot your gears,go both ways about half the width of the hole.You will need an automotive degree wheel and an adaptor to mount it to the crank at the stator with a pointer.Then you need a dial indicator on the last cam loab on #4 cylinder.I mount a steel pad to the valve cover bolt hole and then mount a magnetic base to it.I also use coat hanger or aluminum welding rod to extend the indicator pointer down to the lifter.You will need to find #1 piston top dead center.I just made a piston stop out of an old spark plug.I welded an extention to it so that it would hit the piston at TDC.You want the piston to touch it at 20 to 30 degrees from TDC.Rotate the engine both directions until the piston stops against the plug.Adjust the location of the degree wheel pointer until it shows the same degree before TDC for both directions.Then pull out the piston stop and rotate the engine till the pointer is at TDC(0degrees) on the degree wheel.At this point,your almost there,Call me and I'll help you the rest of the way.If you have any problems with the set up,feel free to contact me again and I'll help you. w 613-925-5171,h 613-925-2019
L,I remember when I had to learn this.I had a hard time with it but I stuck at it and with the help from Dave at Powderlites I got it.I'd be happy to help you through it, although its likely easier over the phone.To start,rather then slot the gears,you can buy slotted gears and they are not alot of money.If you prefer to slot your gears,go both ways about half the width of the hole.You will need an automotive degree wheel and an adaptor to mount it to the crank at the stator with a pointer.Then you need a dial indicator on the last cam loab on #4 cylinder.I mount a steel pad to the valve cover bolt hole and then mount a magnetic base to it.I also use coat hanger or aluminum welding rod to extend the indicator pointer down to the lifter.You will need to find #1 piston top dead center.I just made a piston stop out of an old spark plug.I welded an extention to it so that it would hit the piston at TDC.You want the piston to touch it at 20 to 30 degrees from TDC.Rotate the engine both directions until the piston stops against the plug.Adjust the location of the degree wheel pointer until it shows the same degree before TDC for both directions.Then pull out the piston stop and rotate the engine till the pointer is at TDC(0degrees) on the degree wheel.At this point,your almost there,Call me and I'll help you the rest of the way.If you have any problems with the set up,feel free to contact me again and I'll help you. w 613-925-5171,h 613-925-2019
powderlites
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Cam timing
Wow Hurricane your going in deep on this one!! I have help a few guys through this cam timing thing and had a lot of guys even from good shops question me on what I was doing.
I am working on cam jig for Apex like we have for Nytro turbo kits.
Once you figure it out with degree wheel change valve opening to a different spec like if your using 1mm or .040" try it at .050" and make sure you get same results.
If you have different cam timing you doing it wrong.
This is what I really like about the forums.
http://www.powderlites.com
Good luck Dave!!LOL
Wow Hurricane your going in deep on this one!! I have help a few guys through this cam timing thing and had a lot of guys even from good shops question me on what I was doing.
I am working on cam jig for Apex like we have for Nytro turbo kits.
Once you figure it out with degree wheel change valve opening to a different spec like if your using 1mm or .040" try it at .050" and make sure you get same results.
If you have different cam timing you doing it wrong.
This is what I really like about the forums.
http://www.powderlites.com
Good luck Dave!!LOL
TWIN TURBO
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Hi Dave, both of you,
You guys got to step it up I check them at 001, .004, .006, .010, .020, .040, .050. Of course may cam fixture makes it alot easier than trying to use a mag base and indicator. When I get my son in the mode to update my web site I'll have a picture of it.
Just a freindly note, All the dyno time this year and theirs been alot, I haven't seen the need or shall I say benefit in moving the cams on Apex's as oposed to RX1's. My Stand-a-lone ignition and fuel injection is up just over 400HP at 27lbs boost with stock cam timing. Be very careful advancing the exhaust cam on a Apex, as it is already 6 degress ahead of a RX1 stock, without one of Dave's Meth injection kits, the header will glow RED even on a short pull. With the added duration of the Apex cams if you advance the cam more than 3 degrees, your opening the exhaust valve while the mixture is still burning. Makes for some HIGH exhaust temps and a loss in power from what i'm seeing.
Maybe I'll find alittle more power this week trying a new turbo on the Apex, maybe 425 at 27lbs I hope. Keep in mind my Dyno is said to be stingy!!!!!!!!!!
Stay in touch Dave ( the Turbo kit Guru ) I think you would like my Electomotive Stand-a-Lone ignition and fuel injection.
www.powerbygns.com
You guys got to step it up I check them at 001, .004, .006, .010, .020, .040, .050. Of course may cam fixture makes it alot easier than trying to use a mag base and indicator. When I get my son in the mode to update my web site I'll have a picture of it.
Just a freindly note, All the dyno time this year and theirs been alot, I haven't seen the need or shall I say benefit in moving the cams on Apex's as oposed to RX1's. My Stand-a-lone ignition and fuel injection is up just over 400HP at 27lbs boost with stock cam timing. Be very careful advancing the exhaust cam on a Apex, as it is already 6 degress ahead of a RX1 stock, without one of Dave's Meth injection kits, the header will glow RED even on a short pull. With the added duration of the Apex cams if you advance the cam more than 3 degrees, your opening the exhaust valve while the mixture is still burning. Makes for some HIGH exhaust temps and a loss in power from what i'm seeing.
Maybe I'll find alittle more power this week trying a new turbo on the Apex, maybe 425 at 27lbs I hope. Keep in mind my Dyno is said to be stingy!!!!!!!!!!
Stay in touch Dave ( the Turbo kit Guru ) I think you would like my Electomotive Stand-a-Lone ignition and fuel injection.
www.powerbygns.com
