RTX Meirda
TY 4 Stroke Master
Does anyone have directions on machining my clutch. I have a machine shop next to me. I should take advantage.
06 Apex. I notice that the belt does not get to the primary.
06 Apex. I notice that the belt does not get to the primary.
Sidewinder
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I would ask if you get it done to do mine as well.
But I know Mike and I dont really see eye to eye.
But I know Mike and I dont really see eye to eye.
snowbeast
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I have done it before on poo clutchs,but it is touchy,i have a crank end you bolt on to the whole clutch and chuck it up this way,but when you get down into the shaft area this is where it is critical,you dont touch the shaft,as it will take out your bushing in a hurry if messed up,now the proper way is disassembly,and trying to fixture up a 8" clutch on a small horizontal lathe with out the proper fixture may be to time consuming for a small shop to want to do,i know i work in a machine shop,but allen ulmer does this mod as well,i think it 200 bucks complete,and he machines down the split collors as well,give him a call at 605-387-2833RTX Meirda said:
RTK
Extreme
Back in the old ICCSF days we would remove the belt, start it up and lay a course file in there and shave alittle off. Then finish it with some fine emery cloth or sand paper. Diden't cost a thing.
RTK said:
Except for maybe your hand
...I would not recommend this way to machine your clutches. This is very dangerous and you could get severely injured...BBYblack john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
cutting the primary
take the primary apart get both sheves milled. down i used mt drill press and a carbide cutter. to cut down the c clip,s down i just used my belt sander and after losesing my finger print,s i got them just right. i did this all trial and error. cut and fit. 1st ran mine at 3 mm from the top then after redoiing my secoundary for more shift out then i recut the primary till i got to 1.5 mm of the top. note that all mesurement are made with a new belt. allso my belt side clerance is at .015 tho.
take the primary apart get both sheves milled. down i used mt drill press and a carbide cutter. to cut down the c clip,s down i just used my belt sander and after losesing my finger print,s i got them just right. i did this all trial and error. cut and fit. 1st ran mine at 3 mm from the top then after redoiing my secoundary for more shift out then i recut the primary till i got to 1.5 mm of the top. note that all mesurement are made with a new belt. allso my belt side clerance is at .015 tho.
1000 stroker
Extreme
So for those who have done this. What were the gains. Is it noticeable or not? I see that I am not shifting out either. I am 3/4 of an inch from top. I am sure there is an improvement to be had there, just curious what real world results are.
black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
o/d
most gear down so that the bottem is improved and still maintan a good top end. but i did not gear down and i pull it up there on those long runs
down the lakes as last year i could pull the were i had it cut (3mm) now it should pull to 1.5 mm from the top and i will gear down one tooth on top. i run 24x42 with 10 tooth drivers so 23x42 is still fairly high.
most gear down so that the bottem is improved and still maintan a good top end. but i did not gear down and i pull it up there on those long runs
down the lakes as last year i could pull the were i had it cut (3mm) now it should pull to 1.5 mm from the top and i will gear down one tooth on top. i run 24x42 with 10 tooth drivers so 23x42 is still fairly high.black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
washers
the coil bind realy applies to those running the white or pink springs as there just is not the room allow the clutch to fully open with these spings. so even with cut helx,s . this is only one solution to this problem. i have done lots of testing on this. a yamaha sillver is about the softest spring that you can run and is the strongest that yamaha spring that will give room to compress due to coil diameter. dolton offers a sping with more side psi with the smaller coil diameter. so its not just a simple thing like cheating on the boss cut down in order to get max shift out with a o/d primary set up you would need a spacer at lest 4mm thick with a stk primary you would need 1-1.5 mm just for the spring alone. unless one of the other springs is used.
the coil bind realy applies to those running the white or pink springs as there just is not the room allow the clutch to fully open with these spings. so even with cut helx,s . this is only one solution to this problem. i have done lots of testing on this. a yamaha sillver is about the softest spring that you can run and is the strongest that yamaha spring that will give room to compress due to coil diameter. dolton offers a sping with more side psi with the smaller coil diameter. so its not just a simple thing like cheating on the boss cut down in order to get max shift out with a o/d primary set up you would need a spacer at lest 4mm thick with a stk primary you would need 1-1.5 mm just for the spring alone. unless one of the other springs is used.
SledFreak
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black john, So with a Yamaha Siver Secondary Spring what is the recomended setting for it on the Apex secondary, 3 and 3? 60 degrees, like the white secondary spring assuming you have machined your primary clutch and helix.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
You will want to crank it a bit tighter than 60. It is a softer spring. 90 sounds about right, I've heard of others running it as much as 110.
SledFreak
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ttt
DYNAREX
Expert
just because the primary is machined to allow the belt to the top[ dosent mean it will ever get there
if you arent making the power it will never get to the top
if youre geared too tall it wont go to the top
the stk helix and the pink and white secondary springs will also stop it from getting to the top
if you arent making the power it will never get to the top
if youre geared too tall it wont go to the top
the stk helix and the pink and white secondary springs will also stop it from getting to the top
dirkdiggler
Suspended
DYNAREX said:
The first things that stops it is the angle of the sleeve itself. If you don't machine them it will never get there even if you have 400 hp.
You must machine both the secondary and the primary to do it right. call Lightning Pro 231-632-6669. They machine them and then rebalance each clutch
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We've machined........wait I don't want to think back to how many we've machined so far this season. LOL! Rework the primary and unless using an OEM helix then recut inner hub, etc. It's pretty painless, but does require rebalancing. Do a search on here the exact measurements to cut have been mentioned before.
