How to remove upper idler wheels from shaft ?

Pstn head

Pstn head

TY 4 Stroke Master
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Is a puller needed to remove the upper idler wheels from the shaft or is there another way of removing them?
 
Ok I'll try these methods, I was thinking the same but seemed a little harsh. Thanks I'll give it another go.
 
If you remove bolt and plastic spring slide on rail on the side you are doing, lets you move spring on top shaft to get a better angle to drive bearing off.
 
I haven't owned a sled with a Cat rear suspension since 2003 but I have a tool for pulling the rear wheels from the shaft on older Cat sleds. I wonder if the same tool will work and if you can still buy it. I will post some pics of it later when I take some.
 
XP123 said:
I haven't owned a sled with a Cat rear suspension since 2003 but I have a tool for pulling the rear wheels from the shaft on older Cat sleds. I wonder if the same tool will work and if you can still buy it. I will post some pics of it later when I take some.
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Pictures of your puller would be great, and where did you buy it ?
 
BTbt said:
If you remove bolt and plastic spring slide on rail on the side you are doing, lets you move spring on top shaft to get a better angle to drive bearing off.
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Loosening off the spring made enough room to drive the bearing off, Thanks
 
Pstn head said:
Pictures of your puller would be great, and where did you buy it ?
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I paid 80 bucks for it and I ordered it through Arctic Cat. I think I bought it back in the late 90's and it's been sitting on a shelf for the last 14 years. It's heavy duty and has a few different parts to it for pulling different size wheels with different size bearings. It also has a tool for pounding the wheels back on. it is designed to not damage the wheels or bearings. If I remember correctly some of those wheels were very hard to get off without the tool. The Doo wheels come right off with no need for any tools.
 
I
XP123 said:
I paid 80 bucks for it and I ordered it through Arctic Cat. I think I bought it back in the late 90's and it's been sitting on a shelf for the last 14 years. It's heavy duty and has a few different parts to it for pulling different size wheels with different size bearings. It also has a tool for pounding the wheels back on. it is designed to not damage the wheels or bearings. If I remember correctly some of those wheels were very hard to get off without the tool. The Doo wheels come right off with no need for any tools.
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I totally agree that the tool works great, but $280 is a little steep. If it pulled and pressed the jack shaft bearing and other driveline bearings I'd be all over it.
Having said that anybody know any tricks to pull then press the jackshaft bearing ?
 
Pstn head said:
I

I totally agree that the tool works great, but $280 is a little steep. If it pulled and pressed the jack shaft bearing and other driveline bearings I'd be all over it.
Having said that anybody know any tricks to pull then press the jackshaft bearing ?
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The one in the case? Yours has a clip like the updated shaft I put in and no wobble bearing so yours is even easier just skip the locking collar steps.
http://ty4stroke.com/threads/7800mi...-change-2017-shaft-bearing-info.141330/page-2
Is other threads on it in Viper FAQ Drivetrain.
 
Pstn head said:
OK, I'll check out the above thread, but I was referring to the bearing behind the secondary clutch.
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Never had to do mine since greased it yearly and replaced as a assembly at 8000mi. It's pressed on shaft and also into the aluminum frame member so I believe you have to drive it out from chaincase side and then press it off shaft.
 
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