I don't know anything about clutching

[Lammy]

Hi again. Like I said, I don't know anything about clutching. What are some basics I need to know. I'm looking at upgrading my stock 06 rtx. Is it an entirely new primary? Or just springs, and weights, and Helix? Or either/or?
I've always just lift my sleds stock, but I got a good deal on the sled, and got a little cake left over. Soo.... help me out fellas. What do I need? I'd like to do a slight improvement, while maintaining reliability. Thanks Guys!

 

[KnappAttack]

If you don't know anything about clutching then leave it stock. Stock clutching runs hard as long as its in tune and alignment. For lake use, I run a Pro-Line kit. It runs harder then a stock setup for sure, but you must have traction or it will go up in track spin. Others run Ulmer, Pioneer Performance, or CPR which come to mind. Another option is to gear down if you have an 06. Drop down to a 23 tooth on the top gear for increased performance, even using the stock clutching.

 

[Lammy]

Thats what I was thinking of doing. So you think just leave it?

 

[KnappAttack]

If you don't know clutching you could end up slowing it down. Gear down to a 23 on top and go with stock clutching. Factory gear is 24/38.

 

[Mongo 1]

The stock set up is tough to beat, a roller secondary is a nice upgrade.

 

[Lammy]

What does that do for me?

 

[Mongo 1]

Instant back shifting, smoother operation because of the reduced friction.

 

[KnappAttack]

Don't waste your money on a roller driven. If you want to waste your money, I'll sell you mine. They don't work on a two stroke and are even worse on a fourstroke. LESS acceleration! It would seem faster as the motor revs quicker giving you the impression it's quicker, put it on timers only to find out ET gets slower. So much for seat of the pants testing. SAVE YOUR MONEY!

 

[Mongo 1]

If you are talking about drag racing I would agree, but on the trail I prefer the instant backshift off the corners.

 

[machzrobbie]

Don't waste your money on a roller driven. If you want to waste your money, I'll sell you mine. They don't work on a two stroke and are even worse on a fourstroke. LESS acceleration! It would seem faster as the motor revs quicker giving you the impression it's quicker, put it on timers only to find out ET gets slower. So much for seat of the pants testing. SAVE YOUR MONEY!

What roller were you using?

 

[welterracer]

I 2nd the 23T top gear.. better acceration.. Just make sure you have studs, or you will just spin

I am also using a White attak secondary spring wrapped to 3+3=6

 

[kviper]

BEST BANG FOR YOUR BUCK BY FAR AND FOR ABOUT THE SAME PRICE OR A LITTLE MORE THAN A GOOD CLUTCH KIT!!! Contact Allen Ulmer at Ulmer Racing and get his air box mod, Ignition module, And Pc111. I think it is about six hundred total and he can instruct you on how to set up the stock clutches using the stock component's you already have. Every thing is plug and play and it works. We have proven it over and over with many side by side comparison's. I also agree with Mike on the roller driven and the 23 tooth top gear. The only negative is you need to run premium fuel but if you get in to a bind you can run regular and stay away from the long hard pull's till you get premium back in. kviper

 

[KnappAttack]

What roller were you using?

I've tried them all, Cats factory driven, micro belmont, heel-clicker. Hymark. Extensive testing too! Not just seat of the pants but timming lights and data accusition using g-force meters in the racepack system.

Everyone of them is slower on acceleration. Rollers need added spring pressure to prevent up shifting to quickly, thereby reducing clutch efficiency. Corner to corner is just a drag race between corners. It will seem faster but in reality it is slower.

The Cat drivens that come with rollers get tossed in favor of button covers for most all drag race applications.

Four strokes would suffer even more from roller driven due to their inability to rev as quick as a two stroke.

Do you want to take time revving the engine, or accelerate the sled forward using the four-stroke torque? The fastest way to accelerate the sled is to shift the clutches and keep the RPM climbing slowly and not accelerate the crankshaft shifting the clutches slowly.

Stick with the factory button driven and save yourself the time and money.

 

[kviper]

What roller were you using?

I've tried them all, Cats factory driven, micro belmont, heel-clicker. Hymark. Extensive testing too! Not just seat of the pants but timming lights and data accusition using g-force meters in the racepack system.

Everyone of them is slower on acceleration. Rollers need added spring pressure to prevent up shifting to quickly, thereby reducing clutch efficiency. Corner to corner is just a drag race between corners. It will seem faster but in reality it is slower.

The Cat drivens that come with rollers get tossed in favor of button covers for most all drag race applications.

Four strokes would suffer even more from roller driven due to their inability to rev as quick as a two stroke.

Do you want to take time revving the engine, or accelerate the sled forward using the four-stroke torque? The fastest way to accelerate the sled is to shift the clutches and keep the RPM climbing slowly and not accelerate the crankshaft shifting the clutches slowly.

Stick with the factory button driven and save yourself the time and money.

Exactly, Every one feel's the quicker back shift and thinks they are going faster. Kind of like loud exhaust, More noise=less trail's for us to ride and a big hole in your wallet. kviper

 

[Lammy]

BEST BANG FOR YOUR BUCK BY FAR AND FOR ABOUT THE SAME PRICE OR A LITTLE MORE THAN A GOOD CLUTCH KIT!!! Contact Allen Ulmer at Ulmer Racing and get his air box mod, Ignition module, And Pc111. I think it is about six hundred total and he can instruct you on how to set up the stock clutches using the stock component's you already have. Every thing is plug and play and it works. We have proven it over and over with many side by side comparison's. I also agree with Mike on the roller driven and the 23 tooth top gear. The only negative is you need to run premium fuel but if you get in to a bind you can run regular and stay away from the long hard pull's till you get premium back in. kviper

Do I need to put premium in with just the 23t gear?