Idler wheels with studded track

[Bigblue1]

I want to see the pattern for the lack of rolling resistance.

I'll take a pic when I go through next month and send it.

 

[Bigblue1]

Trick is to the get the stud heads flush. In my opinion there's no way you can over tighten the tall nuts enough to strip them. Just don't over tighten them to over-compress the track. Even using the plastic backers you should have no trouble getting the stud heads flush even if you start with the tall nuts and change them out after the rubber has compressed when studding through the quiet pads on the track.

yes forget to mention.

 

[max rolph]

here are the pics, only 8 scratch marks ... but you only need more for drag racing, this works amazing for high speed and none go where wheels ride or drivers.... no noise and no resistance.... you can turn track by hand as if it had no studs. i usually never stud out side... but what i did was dremmeled a half moon out of the silent pads soo studs sunk flush with the stud stars on outer belt.

 

[STAIN]

here are the pics, only 8 scratch marks ... but you only need more for drag racing, this works amazing for high speed and none go where wheels ride or drivers.... no noise and no resistance.... you can turn track by hand as if it had no studs. i usually never stud out side... but what i did was dremmeled a half moon out of the silent pads soo studs sunk flush with the stud stars on outer belt.

Doesn't that pattern hit your center rear cooler protector?
I had a Thundercat I bought to flip with studs in the center and the rear center cooler protector was torn up.
I usually try to stay out of the middle 1 1/2" of the track.......

 

[Simplespeed]

Interesting way to stud a track and what length stud did you use… Iam sure its smooth and no noise…

 

[max rolph]

trigger studs, 3/8 above lugs. no noise.... since rarely drag race anyway.... perfect 3 per bar traction.

 

[fatchance]

Doesn't that pattern hit your center rear cooler protector?
I had a Thundercat I bought to flip with studs in the center and the rear center cooler protector was torn up.
I usually try to stay out of the middle 1 1/2" of the track.......

I used the Pro Lite double backers touching side by side up the middle and haven't hit the middle protector yet on 3 sleds Rich. That was with 1.575" Mega Bites

 

[Turboflash]

To ensure all stud heads are flush to inside of track, including those in quiet track pads, I use a hole saw with a stop to control depth and drill the stud hole at the same time. Then, remove rubber inside the hole saw circle. Hole saw is exact size of stud head (15/16" for Megabites). When complete all stud heads are flush, no noise, no wear and tear on idler wheels, no vibration. Track runs very quiet even with 240 studs.

 

[Upstater57]

I run 5, 1.575studs per bar and end up replacing a wheel or two every year. A small price to pay for a good launch when you line up with your buddies. A few things I have noticed:

Careful installation of studs and re-torquing them every year helps a great deal.
Getting rid of the quiet pads also helps.
The ski doo wheels are cheap and also seem to help.

Overall, I have less trouble with wheels during years we have a lot of snow. Use more wheels during low snow seasons. Cost of doing business.