smitty_j25
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I am in the middle of doing a valve adjustment on my 14 XTX. I noticed that the clearance specs are given for 15-25C, but I am working in an unheated garage and took my measurements at about -7C, will this have much of an impact? The measurements that I got are all slightly out of spec, 0.0050" and 0.0055" (the intake spec is 0.0059-0.0087") Is it worth pulling the intake camshaft to adjust?
If you are doing the Exhaust anyway and I suspect you are then yes pull the intake and set them to top of clearance. (most gap) For sure. The hard part is getting at the tensioner. Rest is not difficult just simple math,cleanliness and dont skip steps. Do it once and 99% never have to do it again.
74Nitro
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I am going to attempt to build a tool that will allow one cam to be removed at a time without having to touch the tensioner.
smitty_j25
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I'm going to remeasure the intake, currently have 2 heaters going trying to bring the sled temp up a bit. For my exhaust shims my measurements suggest that I need a 181 to 185 shim for one of the valves, would I be better off to use a 180 (increments of 5 are all I have) instead of putting it right on the right edge of spec?
smitty_j25
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Well that went about a badly as it could, cutting off the cable ties on the timing chain and a piece fell down beside the chain
No chance of fishing it out with one of those scopes with a claw on end?Well that went about a badly as it could, cutting off the cable ties on the timing chain and a piece fell down beside the chain
smitty_j25
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Tried that, knocked it down deeper. Ended up taking the flywheel cover off, it came out along with most of the oil. That's the closest to going right anything had gone today
Oh man! It will be worth it once riding.Tried that, knocked it down deeper. Ended up taking the flywheel cover off, it came out along with most of the oil. That's the closest to going right anything had gone today
smitty_j25
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I got the cable tie out of the timing chain, but I can't get the cam shaft back into place. Going to have to pull the engine mounts and roll things forward to release the chain tensioner. Can the engine be unbolted with the header still in place?
No. You will be running into the spar for Jackshaft on left side also. Have you read my post on this procedure?I got the cable tie out of the timing chain, but I can't get the cam shaft back into place. Going to have to pull the engine mounts and roll things forward to release the chain tensioner. Can the engine be unbolted with the header still in place?
Here
Valve check?
Man I hope I dont find anything. https://ty4stroke.com/threads/season-over-7k-miles-what-service-should-i-do.153071/ Here we go: Get your sled to this point(should do every season anyway) Remove Plugs(Mine all look same and running about perfect) Remove Valve Cover Use feeler guages to check...
ty4stroke.com
smitty_j25
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I've read through that one a few times, keep referring back to it. Thats how I realized I must have let the tensioner tighten, which is why I can't get the camshaft back in and now need to roll the engine. I attached my shim measurements below, I'm wondering if for #2 I should use a 1.80mm shim instead of the 1.85 that falls within spec.
smitty_j25
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Is the jackshaft support the part that ultimately is holding the engine from lifting higher? I finally got the engine mount bolts out, and I'm now disassembling piece by piece to try and get the engine to liftHere
Valve check?
Man I hope I dont find anything. https://ty4stroke.com/threads/season-over-7k-miles-what-service-should-i-do.153071/ Here we go: Get your sled to this point(should do every season anyway) Remove Plugs(Mine all look same and running about perfect) Remove Valve Cover Use feeler guages to check...ty4stroke.com
smitty_j25
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Perfect, I got it disconnected today. The sled is at my in laws so I get very short lengths of time to work on it
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