Is there a benefit to Studs vers new track

[kinsound]

I have a rx-1 with the smaller 2003 track.. I think it is 1.0" is there mountian style track (paddle style) that will fit on this sled or should I just get studs?

 

[LazyBastard]

Get a ripsaw 1.25, and while you're at it, go longer to 144". Studs will chew stuff up and make it dangerous to drive over exposed rocks or roads as well as make steering difficult and cause excessive ski lift in corners.

 

[kinsound]

So you are saying no studs..... would the ripsaw give me that much more? I dont think I could sneak that longer under carrige in the house without the wife seeing it..It was hard enough sneaking in a silver sled in when my 2000 is blue and try explaing why I needed a new sled when the 2 smoke was just fine

 

[LazyBastard]

LOL, the ripsaw is a FAR better track and will make a HUGE difference. You can go to 136 without major efforts by just picking up rail and tunnel extensions, but that leaves you at stock approach angle, which sucks in deep snow. You really should try to sneak in an expertX144. It won't be nearly as hard as sneeking in a whole sled, and you can make it disappear into the underside of the sled when you send the wife away to a spa for the weekend.

 

[RX1Maine]

Is there a benefit to stud vers new Track

I would not ride a sled with out studs. Here in NewEngland the trails are very hard and icey and studs really help in stopping and taking off, You won't spin your track. You should have have at least 144 studs but I run 192 in my RX1. It will cost you about 350 dollars, to me that is cheap insurance. I have meet a lot of sleds with out studs who are always on the wrong side of trail in icy corner.

 

[ger]

I hate to agree with you RX maine. I really wanted to not stud this sled . I waited for 500 miles and could not take it any more. I had to stud . I felt I had no brakes and almost slid into I dont know how many trees . No I am not a crazy rider and no I dont ride a lot of lakes .
I have heard tha the rip saw rules but I dont know how it can rule on low snow and ice.

I will get a rip saw and studs when my original goes

 

[sledheadgeorge]

GET THE RIPSAW WITH 96 DOWN THE MIDDLE. IT WILL GIVE YOU ALL THE TRACTION YOU NEED IN ICCY CONDITIONS, PLUSS YOU CAN STEER IT WITH LESS EFFORT. IF YOU FEAL YOU NEED MORE AFTER THAT WHICH I DOUBT, YOU COULD ALWAYS ADD ANOTHER 48. JUST MAKE SURE YOU ADD TO THE TUNNEL & H. EX. PROTECTORS , AND KEEP YOUR TRACK TIGHT.

 

[impalapower]

I'd keep the old track and stud it. If you take it off, who else would wan't it? Use up that old track and get a new one later or you'll be getting a new sled with a better track at a later time.

 

[Tork]

I'd keep the old track and stud it. If you take it off, who else would wan't it? Use up that old track and get a new one later or you'll be getting a new sled with a better track at a later time.

Not a bad idea here. If you ride a lot on ice, no question that studs really help with that. The ripsaw tracks are very good on hard pack and you dont really need studs for that. I have had 8 sleds. 2 were studded. They are kind of a PITA though. Track stretches more, they get dull or break. I had to go with a 4th wheel kit, otherwise the SIDES of my hyfax And the sides of the track lugs would wear.

I am going to try and NOT stud my Vector. I will go a little slower on ice to compensate. If we get a good winter with a lot of snow they wont do all that much for me anyway.

 

[LazyBastard]

You guys are forgetting that to put enough studs on the original track to make it stick HALF as good as a new track will cost more than a new track, PLUS, it will still sink in deep snow.

 

[Tork]

LB, I think Kinsound needs to tell us more about the kind of conditions he rides in. I am gonna guess that his New Hampshire riding might be a lot lke our Northwoods WI/ MI UP riding which is mainly groomed trails, fire roads etc. And LB, where are you at in Canada?

 

[LazyBastard]

Extremely varying conditions on the east side of georgian bay. Sometimes deep lake-effect, sometimes nasty ice. Studs don't help on ice except for shiny lakes.

 

[kinsound]

I ride in Nothern NH/MAINE Depending on the snowfall, Time of year,even Time of day the conditions vary. I am mostley in the trails. it is usuall packed powder and ice. I guess my main concern is braking nothing like 60 to 0 in just enough time to hit a tree or better yet a GREEN SLED going way to fast around a bend. I have looked at the track on there now. it has only 500 soft miles on it. So justifying a new track is tough..I was hoping 144 studs 1.075" long would not need any mods to heat exchange or any other "stuff" under there. does it make sense? I want to do as little to the sled as I can and still be safe..Thanks for all your input and keep it coming.

 

[kinsound]

So 96 down the center?...WIll I need to install ant protectors?

 

[LeeKo]

I have a SRX with a 136" 1.375 track (no studs)and a 03 Rx-1 with the stock track and 192 1.075 studs. For groomed trails I think the studded track is the way to go, they give you peace of mind in the icy corners. The 1.375 track is awesome on loose snow, good conditions and off trail but we all know how icy corners can get. I love my deep lug track but strongly believe that studded tracks are safer for trail riding. The 03 Rx-1 track gets a bashed a lot on this site but, it is good track for its intended purpose "groomed trails". If I had this sled with the ripsaw, I would definitely stud. Nothing beats a studded track for trail riding.

I don't think you need to add any protectors to an 03' to stud.