Double check the bearing has the wider part of the taper facing out and then seat it in. The piece of aluminum pipe in the pictures is 2" O.D. Toss the bearing in the freezer (or leave it outside for 1/2 hour) and apply a little heat to the bearing seat and it should go in with a few easy taps.
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There isn't a lot of new information here. Most of the info. is already posted by other members in a number of other threads (minus the pictures). This isn't a bad job to do if you're doing it on your own terms. If the sled gets to decide when it has to be changed, you're going to be in for a LOT more effort, and the bearing might be only one of the parts that you have to replace...
otis
Expert
I shimmed my secondary to remove all the slop and was wondering how to ensure that I didn't take the belt out of alignment. I dont have a clutch alignment tool. I followed the instructions on the totallyamaha site to shim with 2 four thousanths washers.
In the last pic you showed with the secondary closed a straight edge that sat exactly in the middle of the secondary to the middle of the primary. Is this the correct alignment?
I am asking because I couldn't remember if the secondary opened evenly on both sides of the belt or if one side was fixed and the other opened and closed which would not work with the alignment as shown.
Any help would be appreciated.
Otis
In the last pic you showed with the secondary closed a straight edge that sat exactly in the middle of the secondary to the middle of the primary. Is this the correct alignment?
I am asking because I couldn't remember if the secondary opened evenly on both sides of the belt or if one side was fixed and the other opened and closed which would not work with the alignment as shown.
Any help would be appreciated.
Otis
otis said:
Hey Otis,
Matt wrote a great overview on this subject a while back, and you can find it on the totallyamaha forum tech pages. The text is below - it should answer your questions...
RX1 Clutch Alignment....Fixed or Floating????
Think about your secondary clutch and how it aligns with your primary. Traditionally, Yamaha has installed there secondary to be "self aligning". While it makes sense, does it actually work? hmmmm.
The engine in the RX-1 is a solid mounted engine, meaning it cant move laterally towards the secondary drive shaft under acceleration loads. The idea of a "floating secondary" is that the driven clutch will move inwards or outwards on the drive shaft to compensate when the PTO side of the engine moves rearward under acceleration loads. That’s a mouthful. However, think about that a minute. If your engine doesn’t move, why on god’s earth do you need slop in your secondary? To allow for larger tolerances at assembly time? To make it less labor intensive for the dealer? My guess is both. Ski-Doo, Cat, and now Polaris all use "Locked" secondary and they have engines that do move because of the rubber in the motor mounts. With the installation of a good engine tensioner, you can run a locked secondary on any sled. Racers have been doing if for years, and now it’s trickling into the manufacturers. The Key is to make sure your alignment is absolutely perfect. Ill cover that in a bit. This has been bugging me for sometime, so I researched it further. I talked to many racers, dealers, and manufacturers and wrote a letter to Snow Tech and got a response from "Dear Ralph" in their first issue of 03/04. He agreed with this theory and mentioned there’s a reason certain manufacturers and now running "Locked Secondary".
For those of you completely lost, go lift the hood of your sled, put both hands on the secondary clutch and push in, now pull out. Notice it Moves? That’s "Float".
Yamaha uses a splined jackshaft and the inside of the secondary is also a splined. The fit is excellent, however in theory, it would be impossible for a clutch to "self align" under hard acceleration and hard brake loads. There is too much side pressure on the jackshaft to allow the secondary to move. So why do you need it? And why is Yamaha the only company to still "float" there secondary? hmmmmmm, Now on to the steps to properly align your clutches and to insure better belt life and better performance.
The Correct way:
1. Remove the Drive belt and Secondary
2. Add appx 2-40 thous thick shims to the Jackshaft. Reinstall Secondary making sure youve tightened the 14 MM bolt.
3. Using an offset tool check to make sure the offset is 15MM from the back of the secondary to the back of the primary. If not, remove secondary and add or subtract shims until the offset is perfect.
4. Reinstall secondary and belt and your done. This will lock your secondary into place and will not allow it to move on the shaft.
Alternate way:
1. Remove the Drive belt
2. Get a 18" piece of steel straight edge (or mechanics ruler), make sure its straight.
3. Open up the sheaves on the secondary and slide the straight edge all the way down to the bottom of the sheaves.
4. Let the secondary close so it pinches the straight edge making sure the other end is resting on the center primary bushing.
5. Take a look at where the straight edge comes to rest in the primary.
6. You want it perfectly centered on the shiny part (where the belt rubs)
7. To move the straight edge outwards, Take the secondary off and add shims until you get the straight edge to come to rest perfectly centered in the primary. Usually about .040 to .080 are how far they are off.
In conclusion, you can do whatever you wish with your clutches. But if you want longer lasting belts, cooler running clutches, and better performing sleds, you may want to try this.
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