Sevey
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A centre punch ?
That sounds simple
Ms
That sounds simple
Ms


Yes. Loctited it once and it was a nightmare to get off. Dont recommend Loctite.A centre punch ?
That sounds simple
Ms
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/drive-axle-bearing-behind-disc-brake.136377/
Sevey
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Thanks
Ms
Ms
Alsim
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Bad news for me for my next bearing replacement ! I loctited it .....Yes. Loctited it once and it was a nightmare to get off. Dont recommend Loctite.
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/drive-axle-bearing-behind-disc-brake.136377/


Well maybe it was dirty or a looser fit than mine. Is always a puller!Bad news for me for my next bearing replacement ! I loctited it .....
ryan11007
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that bearing is cheap too replace im doing all mine right now. secoundary clutch was 45$ chain case side 28$ all others were cheap. any 1 know any one cheaper for these bearings cause 2 places i went cant match thoughs 2. in 3 years ill be replacing them all again.Pic of my drive bearing Brake side. Don't look good. Clean him up and seamed ruff but no slop in bearing when clean and no grease ,repacked him and seam good .
Maybe I should just replace it as I have it apart?
jackshaft bearing behind secondary was good.
All skid bearing was good and replaced.
Going to take apart chaincase next week and replace top gear. Also upgrading my track.
Alsim
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maybe by creating a thermal shock with a heat gun and apply on the cage a little wd40 to cool quickly could help take off the loctiteWell maybe it was dirty or a looser fit than mine. Is always a puller!
blueironranger
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I’ve used the dimple method before and it works good but I’ve also had good luck using “Bearing Mount”. A few different companies make it. It works just like locktite but it’s easier to get apart than Blue Locktite, usually it’s green in color.
ClutchMaster
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I use locktite bearing retaining compound. If you want to get the bearing out just heat the housing with a propane torch the bearing will fall right out.
Yea it's green
Yea it's green


That’s what I used. You would have to heat inner race of bearing. Not a good idea unless replacing bearing. Grease and back seal. Just peen it if needed.I use locktite bearing retaining compound. If you want to get the bearing out just heat the housing with a propane torch the bearing will fall right out.
Yea it's green
SumpBuster
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It's a proven method! Unless you can knurl it. I used a spring loaded punch and lots of dimples on all kinds of stuff. Works as long as the bearing is good.That’s what I used. You would have to heat inner race of bearing. Not a good idea unless replacing bearing. Grease and back seal. Just peen it if needed.
SumpBuster
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I haven't had a bearing fail in over 10 years, including idlers. I have replaced some when excessive play, but needle grease everything a few times a winter. Guys that dont, tend to have failures. A low mileage vector ate the pto side last year, it was bone dry and rusty. Locked up. I get a few drops of water from mine every time I grease them, but even at 7000 miles, it's smooth, not even loose. I see idler wheels all the time on trails, from failed bearings. Last year I switched to moly based grease instead of Mobil 1, as I figure if it's that hard to get that black off my hands, it must be good!Pic of my drive bearing Brake side. Don't look good. Clean him up and seamed ruff but no slop in bearing when clean and no grease ,repacked him and seam good .
Maybe I should just replace it as I have it apart?
jackshaft bearing behind secondary was good.
All skid bearing was good and replaced.
Going to take apart chaincase next week and replace top gear. Also upgrading my track.
ClutchMaster
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Oh ok I see your talking about the drive shafts spinning. I was referring the outer race.That’s what I used. You would have to heat inner race of bearing. Not a good idea unless replacing bearing. Grease and back seal. Just peen it if needed.


Yes. Loctite 609 retaining compound was what I used. Not fun getting it off! Peen works just fine. Maybe a blue Loctite would also work but not sure at all and not chancing it.Oh ok I see your talking about the drive shafts spinning. I was referring the outer race.


Same here only ones ever had fail were those little Hyfax Saver wheels. Very good advice.I haven't had a bearing fail in over 10 years, including idlers. I have replaced some when excessive play, but needle grease everything a few times a winter. Guys that dont, tend to have failures. A low mileage vector ate the pto side last year, it was bone dry and rusty. Locked up. I get a few drops of water from mine every time I grease them, but even at 7000 miles, it's smooth, not even loose. I see idler wheels all the time on trails, from failed bearings. Last year I switched to moly based grease instead of Mobil 1, as I figure if it's that hard to get that black off my hands, it must be good!
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