Jackshaft Removal

cnybrian

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Location
Cato, NY
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Snowmobile
2006 Yamaha Attak
LOCATION
Cato, NY
I've followed the instructions from here to remove the jackshaft:

http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/Jackshaftreplace/Jackshaftchange.htm

However, when I get to this step where it says "A few good taps with a rubber mallet (or hammer and block of wood) should pop the shaft out of the chain case." I've whacked it a dozen or so times and it does not dislodge the shaft at all. I have unscrewed the locking collar and removed the c-clip so I don't know what might be binding it up. Any tips/suggestions?

image040.jpg
 
Chaincase is totally off the sled too. Chaincase end is "free floating" at this point.
 
Yes, the c-clip is off the clutch side too.
 
I've followed the instructions from here to remove the jackshaft:

http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/Jackshaftreplace/Jackshaftchange.htm

However, when I get to this step where it says "A few good taps with a rubber mallet (or hammer and block of wood) should pop the shaft out of the chain case." I've whacked it a dozen or so times and it does not dislodge the shaft at all. I have unscrewed the locking collar and removed the c-clip so I don't know what might be binding it up. Any tips/suggestions?

image040.jpg
I use a 1-1/2 inch brass bar about 2 ft. long or you could use a piece of hard wood and a short handle sledge and move it out:)
 
The bearing is mostly stuck just give a good hit, when I replace the shaft I hit it with a 5 lbs sledge and they all come flying out
 
I just went through all of this. It takes some force to dislodge the shaft. And then when you go to use it as a "ram puller" to remove the bearing....well that takes some force too. Best to heat the bearing seat a bit first. When you go to install it, the manual says to install the chaincase side first, and then the locking collar last after the top gear is torqued down. There should be a thin washer and a spacer on the shaft in front of the small c clip.
 
FWIW, I have found using a rubber mallet for this to be useless, you need to use a heavy brass hammer or brass driver and a heavy steel hammer/sledge to give the "shock" force needed to drive these things out. Rubber mallet and wood just compress and you get no shock value. Be sure to protect the end of the shaft where you are driving against, if the end of the shaft is threaded, I usually install a bolt and pound on it vs the shaft itself.
Cheers and good luck.
 
Like mentioned above, heat the bearing housing with propane torch until it is good and hot, then use a good size hammer with a wood block on the other end. Wouldn't hurt to soak the bearing housing with penetrating oil the night before as well.
 
Heavy hammer and a block of wood worked like butter. My wife came out to check on me it. She said it sounded like a gunshot going off inside the house!

Thanks everyone
 


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