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Just picked up my CR10EK Plugs


RTX Rox said:
Do you guys replace these plugs every year?

nope...just like your car....takes a while before you need to be concerned ...unless you're doing 10,000 miles a year that is! lol
 
How many miles till you change them? At the end of the day it's only $50, so if I would be walking a fine line I'd rather do them in my heated garage then on the side of the trail at -20. What do you think milage wise you should get out of a rack of plugs? 10,000 km? 20,000 km?
 
As long as you do not "cold foul" them, I do not see why they should need to be changed within the lifetime of the average sled.
 
My sled go started quite a bit by my employees during the summer. It fouled the plugs the first time I tried to load it on the trailer at the beginning of the season.
Aparently, a couple of the punks thought it sounded cool, and liked to show their buddies! I wondered what the exhaust smell in the shop was from time to time....
Just as Blue Dave said, don't "cold-foul" them, by always try to let your sled warm up fully before shuting it down.
 
i was going to put them in as well and wonderd why you put a colder plug in. im guessing because of the dual electrode on the end it burns better? i would have to find some caps to go on and they were $18.00 more at the dealer so im still debating myself. this sled had flooded as well by someone else but my 06' er apex never had any issues last year.
 
All this talk about plugs made me decide to check my plugs. So got as far as removing retaining bolt for the coil but I'm having a hard time pulling the coil off the plug. Is there some secert to getting them apart because no matter how hard I twist and pull, I can't get them off? Oh its a Apex 07. :o|
 
My coils were difficult to remove also. It took some twisting and pulling but they did finally come off.
 
When pulling the coils off make sure you got the right angle to pull from them they come right off. Pulling to the left or right is impossible.
 
the plugs run cooler...as in a slower burn...the same thing higher octane fuel does...this causes the fullest compression of the fuel charge before ignition and a fuller flame (more complete burn)...this slight improvement of this burn yields the slight improvement in horsepower..
the negative is when starting if you stab the throttle too early it is more prone to fouling and cold start performance can be slightly less than optimal..
 
I just got my cr10ek plus in. I took some loctite and just dabbed it on the caps and tightened the caps on. I let them sit for a day to get good and dry and just put them in a few minutes ago. Haven't started it up yet but was relatively easy to change. TIP! I got me a piece of 3/8 inch hose about a foot long and the plugs go into the hose very easy. Then use that to lower them down into place and gently screw them in until they stop with the hose. That way you know your not stripping out the threads in the block. Then tighten them down with your socket and extension.
 
cmharcou said:
I just got my cr10ek plus in. I took some loctite and just dabbed it on the caps and tightened the caps on. I let them sit for a day to get good and dry and just put them in a few minutes ago. Haven't started it up yet but was relatively easy to change. TIP! I got me a piece of 3/8 inch hose about a foot long and the plugs go into the hose very easy. Then use that to lower them down into place and gently screw them in until they stop with the hose. That way you know your not stripping out the threads in the block. Then tighten them down with your socket and extension.



fyi loctite is not a conductor..therefore isnt recommended...it was brought to my attention in the past...take a screwdriver and score the threads and the cap ill go on and not come off..
 
cmharcou said:
Well I will see if there is any performance decrease with the loctite on the caps. Anyone try that before notice a difference?
I had a problem with fuel spitting from card into airbox on one cylinder. After alot of thoughts and research I believe it was caused from me using lock-tite on my thread caps.
Soultion - remove, clean up threads, get new caps, scratch threads, apply cap.
In searching for this cause; Ulmer also mentioned to me to use di-electric grease in the boot to prevent corrosion becoming a path for arcing
 
What a pain these plugs are. I cannot imagine doing it on the trail. I bought cheap Champions to pilfer the caps. I firmly carefully crimped the threads with my Leatherman and screwed on the caps.
 


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