I have a 2009 apex gt that keeps blowing the fuse for my heated shield. Not all time time. Can run all day fine then next day blow. I have changed the plug with same results. Could just a little bit of moisture be causing the problem? All other electronics are fine.
Anyone else ever run into this?
Thanks,
Smurf
Anyone else ever run into this?
Thanks,
Smurf
Grimm
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Maybe try using a different cable running from the outlet to your shield. Also be careful when unplugging your cable at the shield end while the sled is running. You can short out the connection causing the fuse to blow.
copo427ss
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What amp fuse are you using? I had to switch to a 5 amp fuse. Especially if I had something plugged into my acc outlet. Like my phone charger.


Blue Dave
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You are probably unhooking the cord at the helmet end and letting it drop onto your running board. This used to happen to me a lot. To eliminate this problem I reversed the polarity of my cord so that the tip of the male RCA jack is the ground so that if it touches metal it won't short out and blow the fuse.


thor452
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how did you go about that cut and splice the wire?


Blue Dave
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thor452 said:how did you go about that cut and splice the wire?
I swapped around the leads on my female RCA socket at the handlebars.
vanstone
Veteran
Going to a 5amp fuse is a 66% increase. I went to a 4amp just to be safer. That is a 33% increase. Comment on changing chord end also applies.
SNOW HO
Extreme
Had the same problem with my 2006 and 2009 Apexes. Changed to 5 amp fuse and problem solved
Awesome help like usual from this site.
Grimm - already tried new cable and I am very careful with the cord.
Copo - good suggestion. I use a 3 amp. Does a 5 amp cause any other concern? Should I first use a 4 amp?
Blue Dave - again I'm very careful with cord. I also changed polarity.
vanstone - got it also. Did you have same problem and resolved it with a 4 amp or did you just do it to be safe?
Snow Ho - Thanks. Sounds like changing amp is hopefully the key as long as it doesn't hurt anything else.
Thanks to all. I'll be trying it this weekend.
Smurf
Grimm - already tried new cable and I am very careful with the cord.
Copo - good suggestion. I use a 3 amp. Does a 5 amp cause any other concern? Should I first use a 4 amp?
Blue Dave - again I'm very careful with cord. I also changed polarity.
vanstone - got it also. Did you have same problem and resolved it with a 4 amp or did you just do it to be safe?
Snow Ho - Thanks. Sounds like changing amp is hopefully the key as long as it doesn't hurt anything else.
Thanks to all. I'll be trying it this weekend.
Smurf

Rockmeister
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A few suggestions:
The Helmet end of the sled cord should be FEMALE with the outer ring wired to ground. (NOT Male)
There should be a short Male to Male cable coming off your helmet into the Female cord end.
The sled end of the cord being FEMALE does 2 things for you.
1) The outer ring is ground and it is almost impossible to short the center of a Female end to ground.
Drop it on the sled all you want, won't hurt a thing.
2) The short connector cable at your helmet can literally save your life, or at least a broken neck, if you ever separate from your sled unexpectedly.
The small Male to Male connector on your helmet pretty much guarantees that if you separate, the two ends will be in a straight line and tend to pull apart BEFORE whipping your head/neck around until it releases.
(That is why they include them in the install kits.)
This can be a MAJOR safety issue, if only used once in your entire life!
The fuse is there to protect the wiring, and you, against fire/meltdown.
It protects nothing else, just the wiring.
(Most electronics blows up faster than a fuse can react.)
Most of the wiring on your sled is capable of 20A max.
(Some can handle more, some less, but most can do 20A)
The idea is that you can load the wire just up to what it can handle, then the fuse blows before the insulation melts off the wire.
If you can match the fuse to the load, so much the better.
However... With the accessory circuit, you have variable loads, it is near impossible to match the fuse to the load, so you can safely increase the rating with-in reason.
The difference from 4A to 5A only decreases the odds of annoying blowing of the fuse, the 4A doesn't really protect anything "better".
You can safely increase the fuse up to 15A.
(I personally would try a 10A first, most likely will fix anything BUT a short.)
Hope this helps a bit!
Rock
The Helmet end of the sled cord should be FEMALE with the outer ring wired to ground. (NOT Male)
There should be a short Male to Male cable coming off your helmet into the Female cord end.
The sled end of the cord being FEMALE does 2 things for you.
1) The outer ring is ground and it is almost impossible to short the center of a Female end to ground.
Drop it on the sled all you want, won't hurt a thing.
2) The short connector cable at your helmet can literally save your life, or at least a broken neck, if you ever separate from your sled unexpectedly.
The small Male to Male connector on your helmet pretty much guarantees that if you separate, the two ends will be in a straight line and tend to pull apart BEFORE whipping your head/neck around until it releases.
(That is why they include them in the install kits.)
This can be a MAJOR safety issue, if only used once in your entire life!
The fuse is there to protect the wiring, and you, against fire/meltdown.
It protects nothing else, just the wiring.
(Most electronics blows up faster than a fuse can react.)
Most of the wiring on your sled is capable of 20A max.
(Some can handle more, some less, but most can do 20A)
The idea is that you can load the wire just up to what it can handle, then the fuse blows before the insulation melts off the wire.
If you can match the fuse to the load, so much the better.
However... With the accessory circuit, you have variable loads, it is near impossible to match the fuse to the load, so you can safely increase the rating with-in reason.
The difference from 4A to 5A only decreases the odds of annoying blowing of the fuse, the 4A doesn't really protect anything "better".
You can safely increase the fuse up to 15A.
(I personally would try a 10A first, most likely will fix anything BUT a short.)
Hope this helps a bit!
Rock

vanstone
Veteran
4 amp solved the problem
Awesome explanation rock. I'm the smurf who purchased your yamaheaters late last season and talked to you at the beginning of this season with questions on how my display was confusing me causing me to think I had a warning on my handwarmers when really it was nothing - it was indicating my shock controls instead. Anyways, I thought of you endlessly last weekend in northern wisconsin when it was sub zero and the grips were absolutely toasty as advertised. Man I love that system. Just had to throw this in here since you responded to my amp question.
I will increase my fuse to 5 and give that a shot.
Thanks to all and happy trails!
I will increase my fuse to 5 and give that a shot.
Thanks to all and happy trails!


Blue Dave
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smurf said:Awesome explanation rock. I'm the smurf who purchased your yamaheaters late last season and talked to you at the beginning of this season with questions on how my display was confusing me causing me to think I had a warning on my handwarmers when really it was nothing - it was indicating my shock controls instead. Anyways, I thought of you endlessly last weekend in northern wisconsin when it was sub zero and the grips were absolutely toasty as advertised. Man I love that system. Just had to throw this in here since you responded to my amp question.
I will increase my fuse to 5 and give that a shot.
Thanks to all and happy trails!
Sounds like the beginning of a "bromance"! Valentines day is just next week! LOL!

Rockmeister
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Really??? Bad Dave. Bad, bad, bad Dave... lol


Blue Dave
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I do like you Rock but I can't say that I think of you endlessly! However I did think of you when my gloves started melting to my handlebar grips! LOL!
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