savageman69
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Evothis
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Can anyone tell me where i can purchase the HID kit?
Studroes144
TY 4 Stroke God
Give Rock a call 260-710-7623.
BAKOWBOY
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Rock has GREAT products, and GREAT to deal with ,,,,, TOP SHELF
shagman
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x3
Studroes144
TY 4 Stroke God
Installation took about 1 hour total, which most of it was taking everything off. The plug and play was super easy to install. For the slim ballasts, I just bought some outdoor heavy duty velcro and stuck the two slim ballasts on the plastic where there was room. They never moved one bit during the whole season and I just checked them the other day and they are securely solid. You certainly can drill a hole to secure them, but I didn't think it was necessary. Super happy with the install and the performance of the HIDs. Awesome investment for sure!
Would you by chance have a pic of where exactly u mounted the ballasts? I know the plastic mesh piece you're talking about, did you mount them to that actual piece?
putz21
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‘19 Sidewinder LTX SE
Would you by chance have a pic of where exactly u mounted the ballasts? I know the plastic mesh piece you're talking about, did you mount them to that actual piece?
I don't think I have a picture of where I mounted them. No, not to the mesh piece. Once you take that off, you will see an area below that which has room to put them. Because they are so slim, they stay pretty much out of the way of the harness.
Studroes144
TY 4 Stroke God
Gotcha sounds good, thanks!
wavemaster
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The HID's we have been using for the last few years from DDM Tuning uses the magnetic in/out for the high beam (high beam is pulled in) so it focuses a little tighter.
The one issue I have had with the HID's in the non-focused lens housings is the in/out style of high beam/low beam is of little use (they point to the ground or into the trees) so I keep it on the high beam aimed at infinity which is awesome for high speed riding however it leaves a whole directly in front of you. To solve that I added a LED flood to the front for that 20-50' range. It is now a full pattern.
Some of the HI/LOW kits use an up/down motion for high beam and some actually add a halogen bulb for the hi beam. What type of HI/LOW does Rock's kits use? Do one of you guys that have installed them know? I would like to see how the up/down style would work in one of these lenses.
The HID's are 55W 6000K - The LED is definitely more white but not noticeable at night.
The one issue I have had with the HID's in the non-focused lens housings is the in/out style of high beam/low beam is of little use (they point to the ground or into the trees) so I keep it on the high beam aimed at infinity which is awesome for high speed riding however it leaves a whole directly in front of you. To solve that I added a LED flood to the front for that 20-50' range. It is now a full pattern.
Some of the HI/LOW kits use an up/down motion for high beam and some actually add a halogen bulb for the hi beam. What type of HI/LOW does Rock's kits use? Do one of you guys that have installed them know? I would like to see how the up/down style would work in one of these lenses.
The HID's are 55W 6000K - The LED is definitely more white but not noticeable at night.
shagman
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I have rocks and know and ride with him. The problem is the reflector in the Viper is shaped wrong and you can't get the hi/low both adjusted where you want no matter what you put in there. Mine are set for the low and I leave the switch alone. Once I got them where I wanted they are great and I don't need another beam. I like your idea with the extra led and might try that.
wavemaster
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The LED is great for the close bumps and only 18W so it shouldn't tax the system too bad.
With the DDM the High beam (pulled in) shoots a noticeably tighter/longer beam so I just adjust it for that and leave it.
With the DDM the High beam (pulled in) shoots a noticeably tighter/longer beam so I just adjust it for that and leave it.
savageman69
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TD Max
Lifetime Member
What we need is an adjustable "stop" for the travel of the magnetic sleeve.
A couple questions:
1) is there backside clearance to the bulb for a small screw head?
2) How bad is the beam spread? Would we need to cut in half maybe?
I have mine apart here and it should be quite easy. Either add a fixed "button" internally, or a non magnetic stainless screw from the back side for adjustability.
A couple questions:
1) is there backside clearance to the bulb for a small screw head?
2) How bad is the beam spread? Would we need to cut in half maybe?
I have mine apart here and it should be quite easy. Either add a fixed "button" internally, or a non magnetic stainless screw from the back side for adjustability.
Last edited:
wavemaster
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What we need is an adjustable "stop" for the travel of the magnetic sleeve.
Ding Ding Ding - we have a winner.
That would do it. If we took about 1/8-3/16" off the travel it would solve the problem by reducing the difference between the two.
Probably a nylon or rubber washer with a dab of epoxy or jb weld to keep it in would do it.
TD Max
Lifetime Member
I think oring(s) around the metal magnet stem/post would do it and I think I have just the oring to do it in Viton.
I have the travel figured at approx. .200"
My orings are approx. .060" so two at .120 may be too much. Might need to find one that is a bit thicker and just use one?
The other thing is if you guys say the light is lazer focused on high beam and spread on low, we may not get the lazer focus this way. It's a lot easier to limit the pull in than the extension.
I have the travel figured at approx. .200"
My orings are approx. .060" so two at .120 may be too much. Might need to find one that is a bit thicker and just use one?
The other thing is if you guys say the light is lazer focused on high beam and spread on low, we may not get the lazer focus this way. It's a lot easier to limit the pull in than the extension.
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