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led headlights

I was all set to run out to the shop and get tinkering. I have 3 different hi/low bulbs to play with and they are all different as far as how far they go in and out of the sleeve. One sticks past the sleeve at least .2, one sticks past maybe .1 and the last one is recessed about .1. I don't think we will ever have a "one size fits all" - bummer.

I have 2 new sets in the box and a friend with an attak that needs a set (the apex lenses suffer from the same problem) so I will open them up and see what would work best. I like the o-ring idea.
 

Rocks kit is the #*$&@ it all mounts to the bottom of the hood and fits real nice
 
Shhhh don't tell Rock I'm messing with his lights...

Overall lengths measured with shield removed. Tip of glass to bottom of housing as best I could with digital caliper and a little rounding. There's nothing really stable about the bulb so it can wobble a bunch.

Low 3.8355
Hi 3.6255

.210" travel more or less

Each oring drops travel .060"

.150 travel with one
.090 travel with two

Now the question is just how bad is the resultant spread? I'm surely thinking that one oring should be the hot ticket? Maybe use a combination to get a nice spread?

In the pic below you'll see the silver magnet plunger. It guides into the hole in the black plastic and bottoms on same. The oring is brown.

IMG_4096.JPG
 
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Great idea. I was looking at doing it from the top. This will eliminate the differences at the top of the housing.
 
The one thing I am questioning is the baffle/slot relationship. There is a baffle that rides with the light and a slot in the deflector cage. It almost looks like this allows light to spill through the slot when the magnet sucks in. Might have to get the pencil grinder out...
 
TD are you trying to get more differential? I had my old 4500 Rock kit in viper from the Phazer and it rocked on low but had no pattern on high. Rock hooked me up with his new 6500 kit and I would say high to low split is perfect. Better than the split with stock bulbs. If you look in the headlight housing there is a ledge that keeps bulb from sitting flat. I heated up a screwdriver red hot and removed that ledge so bulb sits flat. Did that previously trying to get the old bulbs to work but it ended up perfect with the new 6500's. Very happy.
 
What I have is Rock's 4300 kit. Everything I have been ready tells me that the housings are goofy and the HID kits all have too much differential. A buddy with Doo's says his have too much differential too. He just set the high beams like some here have done. Maybe Rock's are fine I don't know. Just going by what I heard/read. I enjoy a challenge and needed a project between garden projects today. Something sled related in absence of a sled.
 
Maybe mine would be fine as it was. At least I got some much needed therapy.

Renegade should be in any day now and should be settling on the RTX next weekend as well.
 
Does Rocks p/p kit just high beam or is it low and high beam. This is my weak point and dont understand what you all mean about differential and all that googly talk. Bring it on I can take it.
 
Rocks kit does hi-lo with a magnetic stem that pulls the bulb rearward. This changes the focal point of the light. At issue is the spread of the Cat reflector. Aim the low to perfection and the high is far too high. Aim the high and teh low is on the ground. Rocks kit is said to be much better than the OE in regards to this spread. I took mine and made an adjustment to make the spread lesser.
 
Well it seems like once you get the lows set almost perfect you don't even need high beams. I don't, mine light up the whole trail!
 
Thanks for the imput so the differential is the beam difference between low and hi beam angle so to speak?
 
i think you got that backwards....up is low using more of the upper reflector to push the light down...high is down using the lower reflector to push the light up and out
 


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