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Let's talk studs

SWTURBO

Extreme
Joined
Mar 22, 2016
Messages
114
Location
Ontario
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
Sidewinderturbo
What's everyone's opinion on studding the Ltx 137 with the 1.25 track ?
 

If I buy one and with the turbo I think it's going to be a must in my opinion to be the most affective. When I got my Viper and rode it I new with all that torque and pull I was going to need studs to get it to hook up and rip. Turbo I am guessing is REALLY going to stretch the arms even harder unless the clutching is smoother.
 
I've been running my ltx-se with MPI trail turbo for 2 years without studs, and I will never go back to them. I have no traction problems at all on "snow" trails - get on an icy road or something and it's a little squirrely , but that doesn't bother me. We did a lot of testing with apex's back in the day, and on real snow, hard packed trails - not ice, studs made negligible difference in traction. As a bonus, I went through 5 tracks on a 150 hp Apex in 5000 miles, and since I stopped studding, I have had no issues at all.
 
I like studs for safety alone, which outweighs the frustration they bring with garage, driveway and trailer. Watched an incident occur this year on an unstudded sled that may have been prevented. Bottomline, I plan to stud the LTX-LE when I get it this fall. Am interested to hear others plans, brand and pattern they will use on their sleds as well.
 
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I too believe in safety first and I've never replaced a track with studs
(Knock on wood ) I run a 2 ply track always with turbos as well but ride in all kinds of conditions too tho and like to run the lakes on ice occasionally.
 
1.325 woodys gold diggers. Going every other belt on the outside(48). A double in every middle belt(96). then every other with a single in the middle(24).
168 for Sidewinder 137" IMO
 
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1.325 woodys gold diggers. Going every other belt on the outside(48). A double in every middle belt(96). then every other with a single in the middle(24).
168 for Sidewinder 137" IMO
I'm not even sure that'll be enough, unless you're just talking safety. I always thought the rule of thumb was 1 stud per HP. I'll grant you that was before better tracks, or "track technology"...just my opinion.
 
Studs on the outside KILL handling of the sled period! to many studs slow you down on top speed rotating mass. Unless you are drag racing everyday 144 down the middle for stopping and ice roads will do the trick. Studs on snow covered trails don't do a dam thing anyway!
 
Studs on the outside KILL handling of the sled period! to many studs slow you down on top speed rotating mass. Unless you are drag racing everyday 144 down the middle for stopping and ice roads will do the trick. Studs on snow covered trails don't do a dam thing anyway!


well said! just go with 1.45" down the middle- double backers where you can- I like my woody's mega-bites- good all around stud for a good price
 
Been there done that many years ago, no studs on an icy trail and I could not stop! OUCH

I do agree that they pull thru and ruin a track, but without, you spin too much and also cause track damage (missing lugs, rips, etc. My driving habits cause the problems, that I am sure of!!

I want to try an ice attack xt 1.22" , my buddy put one on his Apex this year, they seem very tough and also leave a bit of that fun factor in corners. Not the same as a well studded track on ice though.
Dealer does not want any take off tracks, so I will decide in October. If I do stud, it will be center only for sure.
 
I used 1.63 Triggers in my 2016 LTX Turbo. No issues with the length.

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New

20151201_060747.jpeg 600 miles

These are Triggers are more of a "lake racer" stud not a traditional trail stud, but they hold up decent.
 
I can assure you my sleds with studs on the outside will handle very good after set up properly. AND my hole shot will be ALOT better then just down the center.. I have done sleds both ways and will go outside windows all day every day..
 
That is just not the truth! Ride without stud down tight twisted trail then stud the middle and ride again and lastly the outside of track and ride again? Stud on the outside of track want to push you straight so when turning you must overcome them with a lot more carbide on the skis. Think of this like driving a bulldozer if both track spin at the same time it go s straight and to turn one side must slow down so the other side can overcome it and push the track around to turn.
 
That is just not the truth! Ride without stud down tight twisted trail then stud the middle and ride again and lastly the outside of track and ride again? Stud on the outside of track want to push you straight so when turning you must overcome them with a lot more carbide on the skis. Think of this like driving a bulldozer if both track spin at the same time it go s straight and to turn one side must slow down so the other side can overcome it and push the track around to turn.
I will agree the sled will push SLIGHTLY more.. But the hole shot and coming out of corners is ALOT better.. That being said you will sacrifice some cornering but its just not enough for me to not stud outside window.. every other window or the very least every third..

I agree to disagree.. Its like what two stroke oil is best.. Or maybe lets talk four stroke engine oil? We all have thoughts on what works best..
 


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