Let's talk studs

[**sj**]

On mine I used this pattern with woody gold diggers 1.45, tall nuts, and dual backers. This worked great on a 220hp, 248hp, and 270+hp sled. Not to mention a 180hp two stroke also. Still let's you kick it in the corners, but bites great on take off. My .02

Im not recommending that pattern...unless the track drivers are different...buddy ran that ...doubles make vibration and extreme wear on the drivers..

 

[yamalou]

Hey guys, I'm getting the 141 XTX SE with the 1.6 lug track, anyone have any problems studding a 1.6 or should I consider shaving the track. Just concerned using studs so long, but more concerned hitting bare ice on one of the lakes running triple digits. With all the shock, track, and color options they already offer, it would have been nice to be able to custom order (snow check) which shock package, track length, lug height, sled color and suspension color (rails) you wanted so a bunch of us don't have to swap or purchase additional parts to make it how you would really want it.

 

[**sj**]

Of course you can do it...but I personally wouldn't stud that long of a lug in the did cobra variety....I smell pull throughs..as to hitting triple digits...it's going to be a struggle with that track and what I'm assuming the gearing will be...

If it was me and that was the track...I'd consider cutting the lug and then running a balanced pattern of accord racing snow studs..but now that I think on it...I've seen the 1.6 cobra before as a pre studded single ply???

 

[yamalou]

That's my problem, anybody out there stud the 1.6 cobra? and if so has it held up? I've always studded all my sleds, I ride fast but I don't spin my track excessively for no reason, like the guys that leave a pile of snow in the middle of the trail. I call it trail etiquette (common sense) wish more people had it! Anyway my 08 Apex is starting to show signs (1 stud thrown, clips missing) but it has 8800 miles! Not bad for 8 seasons and almost 9000 miles

 

[SRXracer]

If you really thing you need to stud, I think the 1.6 Ice Cobra with the small studs molded into the tips of the track would be absolutely perfect for you. One of the guys was running that track in our group this year, and it had just enough grip in the slick stuff to keep you from sliding around without all the pull through and other track issues that studs add. Personally, I would ride that track without studs a couple rides and see how you like it. On all but glare ice, it has a ton of grip. I was a little worried about riding without studs, but after doing it for a couple seasons now, I would never go back!

 

[Yamadog]

Here ya go 144 Woody's Grand masters with over 3000 miles on it and "0" pull outs most of it run at 250 + hp I can tell you the screw ins do pull out you can see a few in the end of the paddles. This does give excellent bite and with the power I have I can still dump the throttle set all 32" of carbides in the front then power on and sweep the track around into the corner then it hooks up coming out of the turn and lifts the front end and powers down the straight away. It will however not get enough bite to run the 1.6" track on a shaved ice drag track!

 

[Bpatch50]

Gotta go at least 1.45 length studs. 1.325 is useless. 1.575 is ideal on a 1.25 track for traction. Please make sure you buy good studs, brand name and not the cheapest ones you can find. Use aluminum backers and tall nuts. Our whole crew has been running this length stud for many seasons now, no pull outs, broken studs bent studs ruined tracks or anything. Just traction.

With a sled that has this much power, youre looking at a new track every 5-7000 kms anyways, especially if you do alot of high speed running.

I agree, 1.325 is not long enough.

I also don't like the idea of studding just the center. Think about how fast you're spinning that track - if all the weight is in the center you're asking for the track to balloon. And the farther you get away from the rails, the less down force that's being applied to the stud.

I think the biggest problem with studs is when people don't use enough. You have to remember, you're applying a specific amount of force to the track as you propel the sled forward. If that amount of force is applied to 96 studs, the force being applied to each stud is far greater than if that same sled had 204 studs.

144 up the center (or whatever the number is on these tracks) on a sidewinder is a mistake in my opinion.

 

[WVTurboLTX]

I agree, 1.325 is not long enough.

I also don't like the idea of studding just the center. Think about how fast you're spinning that track - if all the weight is in the center you're asking for the track to balloon. And the farther you get away from the rails, the less down force that's being applied to the stud.

I think the biggest problem with studs is when people don't use enough. You have to remember, you're applying a specific amount of force to the track as you propel the sled forward. If that amount of force is applied to 96 studs, the force being applied to each stud is far greater than if that same sled had 204 studs.

144 up the center (or whatever the number is on these tracks) on a sidewinder is a mistake in my opinion.

I've read multiple articles and seen manufacturer suggestions saying anything more than 144 is a waste of money on a trail sled. My ltx turbo had 144 up the middle with zero pull outs and plenty of traction in the 4k miles I ran it.

 

[WVTurboLTX]

That's my problem, anybody out there stud the 1.6 cobra? and if so has it held up? I've always studded all my sleds, I ride fast but I don't spin my track excessively for no reason, like the guys that leave a pile of snow in the middle of the trail. I call it trail etiquette (common sense) wish more people had it! Anyway my 08 Apex is starting to show signs (1 stud thrown, clips missing) but it has 8800 miles! Not bad for 8 seasons and almost 9000 miles

My friend has his cobra studded with zero issues. I've run his sled to 95 mph a few times on the ice and it's just a stock viper. You'll be able to run well past 100 on the sidewinder with this track.

 

[Blue Dave]

I am reviving this old thread rather than starting a new one. I am about to pull the trigger on trading my 2015 SR Viper RTX DX in on a 2017 Sidewinder LTX DX. I am also thinking about adding the 270 HP Turbo Dynamics kit.

1) How many "panels " (areas between the lugs where the studs mount) are there on this 137" track?
2) How many studs should I run if I only utilize the middle section of the track? (I have had bad luck in the past with pull outs when I studded the outsides)
3) What length studs should I run? (I ran 1.375" Fast Trac Top Gun II 's on my RTX DX Viper which worked well).
4) Should I avoid the "quiet track" raised pads so that the stud heads pull down completely flush? (I noticed this issue when I studded my Viper)
5) Do I need heat exchanger protectors?


Thanks in advance guys for your help!

 

[Epicsw]

I've been running my ltx-se with MPI trail turbo for 2 years without studs, and I will never go back to them. I have no traction problems at all on "snow" trails - get on an icy road or something and it's a little squirrely , but that doesn't bother me. We did a lot of testing with apex's back in the day, and on real snow, hard packed trails - not ice, studs made negligible difference in traction. As a bonus, I went through 5 tracks on a 150 hp Apex in 5000 miles, and since I stopped studding, I have had no issues at all.

Your experiene is mine too. Didn't stud my LTE-LE either. Always studded my apes in the past. On good trail snow, I felt almost no difference. BUT, on lakes where there were corners, definitely had to keep the wits on high level. It wanted to slide out without warning. Just needed to be aware of the possibilty and lift the thumb, and quickly! Also, plowed roads would yield similar experiences.

But, in 3,500 miles, I've rarely thought I was being shorted on traction and the ability to blow by friends on lesser machines was omni-present. Just always giggled when the thumb got more exercised and they saw nothing but snow dust!

 

[WinterWolf]

I've been running my ltx-se with MPI trail turbo for 2 years without studs, and I will never go back to them. I have no traction problems at all on "snow" trails - get on an icy road or something and it's a little squirrely , but that doesn't bother me. We did a lot of testing with apex's back in the day, and on real snow, hard packed trails - not ice, studs made negligible difference in traction. As a bonus, I went through 5 tracks on a 150 hp Apex in 5000 miles, and since I stopped studding, I have had no issues at all.

5 Tracks in 5000 miles??????????? Really???? That's absolutely insane. I just sold my 2007 Apex GT with close to 6000 miles on it, and it had the original track that was studded with 144 Megabites. Never bent a One, or pulled any through. You must be riding on more dirt and rocks than snow to go through 5 tracks in 5000 miles, and not riding sensibly when the conditions are Less than stellar...that's CERTAINLY not even close to being what 99.999% of the people who stud their sleds will experience.

 

[Blue Dave]

Can anybody please help me with these questions? I am about to pull the trigger on trading my 2015 SR Viper RTX DX in on a 2017 Sidewinder LTX DX. I am also thinking about adding the 270 HP Turbo Dynamics kit.

1) How many "panels " (areas between the lugs where the studs mount) are there on this 137" track?
2) How many studs should I run if I keep it stock and if I go to 270 hp if I only utilize the middle section of the track? (I have had bad luck in the past with pull outs when I studded the outsides)
3) What length studs should I run? (I ran 1.375" Fast Trac Top Gun II 's on my RTX DX Viper which worked well).
4) Should I avoid the "quiet track" raised pads so that the stud heads pull down completely flush? (I noticed this issue when I studded my Viper)
5) Do I need heat exchanger protectors?


Thanks in advance guys for your help!

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I am reviving this old thread rather than starting a new one. I am about to pull the trigger on trading my 2015 SR Viper RTX DX in on a 2017 Sidewinder LTX DX. I am also thinking about adding the 270 HP Turbo Dynamics kit.

1) How many "panels " (areas between the lugs where the studs mount) are there on this 137" track?
2) How many studs should I run if I only utilize the middle section of the track? (I have had bad luck in the past with pull outs when I studded the outsides)
3) What length studs should I run? (I ran 1.375" Fast Trac Top Gun II 's on my RTX DX Viper which worked well).
4) Should I avoid the "quiet track" raised pads so that the stud heads pull down completely flush? (I noticed this issue when I studded my Viper)
5) Do I need heat exchanger protectors?


Thanks in advance guys for your help!

1) How many "panels " (areas between the lugs where the studs mount) are there on this 137" track?
137/ 2.86=47.90(48 blocks)

2) How many studs should I run if I only utilize the middle section of the track? (I have had bad luck in the past with pull outs when I studded the outsides)
I am starting with a 2/4/2/pattern using doubles and singles.(see my stud-boy template below) 144 total for you. And then you can add more if you feel you need more later.


3) What length studs should I run? (I ran 1.375" Fast Trac Top Gun II 's on my RTX DX Viper which worked well).
1.450" IMO is best for trail riding, very good penetration, yet wont hit the Vents in middle near front.

4) Should I avoid the "quiet track" raised pads so that the stud heads pull down completely flush? (I noticed this issue when I studded my Viper) Not sure if this is a real issue or not, I would do what you think is best.


5) Do I need heat exchanger protectors? YES, Cat/Yam makes them or many use BRP type slid into slots. I will likely use the Yam/Cat ones as they are designed to work with these sleds.

Dan

 

[Blue Dave]

Thanks Dan!

I am pleased to see that you are back to riding a Yamaha!

I like the Stud Boy template and the use of double & single backers.