Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
Moving it a 1/4- 3/8 inch will not change the angle much at all, almost insignificant, probably a degree, maybe 2.
Anyone with the math skills here to figure it out?
Anyone with the math skills here to figure it out?
kinger
VIP Member
I mounted mine per the instructions and I didn't get a rub like some, but not sure if I ever found the bottom of the suspension either.
I remember the ZX2 was a pain in the azz to get into the tunnel, the rear holes would not line up I had to tighten the track without the rear mounted to get it close and then worm it in, it was a BEYATCH by myself. Not sure if 2 people would have even helped. I tend to learn the hard way so if anyone has advice on getting the 4 bolts out and back in again I'm all ears, I have been afraid to remove mine jsut because it seriously took me a hour to get the skid in position to be bolted in.
I remember the ZX2 was a pain in the azz to get into the tunnel, the rear holes would not line up I had to tighten the track without the rear mounted to get it close and then worm it in, it was a BEYATCH by myself. Not sure if 2 people would have even helped. I tend to learn the hard way so if anyone has advice on getting the 4 bolts out and back in again I'm all ears, I have been afraid to remove mine jsut because it seriously took me a hour to get the skid in position to be bolted in.
kinger
VIP Member
Grimm said:
Probably doesn't apply but when i fabbed up my edge plates I ws off by a 3/4" with the rear hole down to far, and the skid would lock up after hitting a bump in the DOWN position and slowly rise back up, looked like a low rider LOL! I moved it down 3/4" and voila perfection. 4 Bolt skids tend to be postion sensitive. If people have done with no adverse effects then your probably ok. I can run the math and figure out the new center line between shock mounts compared to the original.
mdkuni
TY 4 Stroke Guru
kinger said:
Two people makes things much easier. I just put mine back in with a brand new track, that makes things even worse with the track not being stretched yet. Two things that helped me was to make sure your rear axle is as far in as it can go, and use a crank stand on the rear bumper. With the crank stand you can adjust the tunnel height to the perfect position. This way you do not have to be lifting the skid off the ground and trying to line up the holes. This will help the front bolts. On the rear, a 2x4 or two 2x4's under the rear helps. If need be, removing your revolver pins is suggested but I have found that unecessary.
tkuss
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Mdkuni, thanks for taking the time for getting me the instructions, I appreciate it a lot.
Also what do you feel about mounting the rear bolts a 1/4 inch lower or so to give a bit more track clearence.
Also what do you feel about mounting the rear bolts a 1/4 inch lower or so to give a bit more track clearence.
mdkuni
TY 4 Stroke Guru
tkuss said:
Glad to help out! I mounted my skid per the instructions. I had rub marks on my tunnel protectors but I can not be certain they are from the ZX2. I never noticed them with the monoshock installed but I guess I could have over looked them. I removed the tunnel protectors (except for the front exchanger protectors) this summer to eliminate the ice build up, but I will also not have to worry about the track hitting anymore.
I for one tend to stick to manufacturer recommendations as they are the ones that designed it. That does not mean there is room for improvement though......
tkuss
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Just thought I would give a little update. I installed the skid this last weekend and everything went great. We had 4 guys to help if needed, but generally I only needed me and another guy and we got the whole thing installed in about 3-4 hours. I had to buy my own rivets since I got the skid used they did not come with it and I hope I have no problems down the road with it. I am not concerned at all about it, but the rivets I used did not mushroom to get as big as the stock rivets in the tunnel. If I had to do it again, with two people I could probaly do it in an hour or two. The biggest pain was taking out the rear axle bolts out to loctite them, and trying to get them back in, took about half an hour. The track clearence is tight but nothing to worry about. On the stand I made couple quick runs with the track, the fastest getting up to about 70 and I also took a quick run outside on the road with the 1/4 inch snow we had (thank god for sure grip dollies) there seemed to be no vibration at all, so hopefully I don't have problems like some on here have had. Also I put in some new rubber stoppers in the revolver and torqued each bolt to 50ft/lbs and if it moved before it got to 50 I took it out and red loctited it. So hopefully I am good to go, and will not have any problems with it. I can't wait to get out and ride this thing now. If snow conditions cooperate I will be in the U.P first weekend in December.
