DooAssassin
Expert
I inspected the head and block, there is no warping or cracks. Tonight I will check the cylinders. I pulled out all the exhaust valves because there was carbon build up and some were leaking because of the build up. cleaned them up and it solved the valve blow by emediatly. Thanks for your advice, I plan on doing a leak down as soon as the head is torqued in place to see if there is any more issues with that #2 cylinder.
DooAssassin
Expert
BTW brake cleaner will give a better indication them water on the valves. With water none leaked, with brake cleaner it really showed what was going on.
But it wasn't leaking enough to show up on the compression tester. Maybe a 1lb or 2.
But it wasn't leaking enough to show up on the compression tester. Maybe a 1lb or 2.
machz69
Expert
Hey fella, that's shitty, didn't mean to bring you bad luck when i asked about the rumor..lol.. glad to hear that everything looks good and it's just a gasket.DooAssassin said:BTW brake cleaner will give a better indication them water on the valves. With water none leaked, with brake cleaner it really showed what was going on.
But it wasn't leaking enough to show up on the compression tester. Maybe a 1lb or 2.
DooAssassin
Expert
Im not taking any chances, so It is being dissembled and completely rebuilt. I have too much money invested into it to gamble on the lower end being fine.
Jason
Jason
Schlick55
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When I raced go-karts I ran a limited mod Briggs and the next step was a Open Briggs or Honda. On the open motors they ran a head and block girdle that basically held everything in a straight line and the head on. When you spin a "slightly" modified lawnmower engine 10000 rpm it is just kind of a safty thing
It was a pretty simple piece, a aluminum plate between the engine block and the motor mount, then the other piece was milled oppisite the cooling fins on the head. Everything was bolted together around the outside and torqued to spec. It seems like something like this would solve some of these head and block deflection issues.

DooAssassin
Expert
The low compression is because the cylinder is out of round. 0.010 in. Sending it out for repair or replaced. Detonation is the killer.
.010 she rattled real hard, that sucks man! Doesn't matter how much work you have done to the engine when the deto monster rears its head.
machz69
Expert
the most important thing when palying with boost is making sure you have the right fuel for the boost. C16/Q16.. this will save your azz.
TurboTime
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machz69 said:the most important thing when palying with boost is making sure you have the right fuel for the boost. C16/Q16.. this will save your azz.
Amen, cheap insurance...
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